LIBRARY 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 

SANTA  BARBARA 


PRESENTED  BY 

MRS.    THOMAS  A.    DRISCOLL 


PRACTICAL 

POULTRY  KEEPING, 

AS    I    UNDERSTAND   IT. 


[FIFTH  EDITION.] 


GK  :M.  T.  joi-iisrsoisr, 

\i 

BINGHAMTON,  N.  Y. 


COPYRIGHTED  1830,  BY  G.  M.  T.  JOHNSON,  IN  THE  OFFICE  OF  THE  LIBRARIAN  OF  CONGRESS,  AT 
WASHINGTON. 


SECOND  EDITION  ISSUED  FEBRUARY  i,  1881. 

THIRD  EDITION  ISSUED  JANUARY  i,   1883. 

FOURTH  EDITION  JANUARY  i,  1884. 


AMTON.   N.    T. 


TO    THE    READER. 

THE  successful  farmer  or  fancier  of  to-day  is  the  one  who  accepts 
the  fact  that  stock  perfectly  acceptable  ten  years  ago,  is  not  accept- 
able to-day.  The  demand  for  something  better  comes  every  year. 
Especially  is  this  the  case  in  regard  to  poultry.  For  this  reason 
many  are  now  keeping  good  fowls  carefully  bred,  and  selling  at 
high  prices. 

The  call  for  better  stock,  and  for  information  as  to  what  is  good 
stock,  and  the  best  mode  of  handling,  comes  from  all  sections. 

The  prices  of  books  treating  of  poultry  are  too  high  for  the 
generality  of  people.  A  book  is  wanted  which  every  one  who 
keeps  a  dozen  fowls  can  afford  to  buy,  and  at  the  same  time 
which  gives  all  the  information  desired  concerning  the  different 
varieties  of  fowls,  and  how  best  to  handle  them. 

That  book  should  contain  all  that  is  really  valuable  to  the  fancier 
who  keeps  fowls  for  pleasure,  and  the  farmer  who  keeps  fowls  for 
profit.  It  should  be  plain,  practical  and  simple.  It  should  blow 
no  horn  in  the  interest  of  any  class  of  men,  or  breed  of  fowls,  and 
advertise  no  patent  medicines,  but  be  a  plain  and  truthful  talk  be- 
tween writer  and  reader. 

In  answer  to  this  demand,  as  far  as  in  me  lies,  I  offer  this  little 
book  :  all  of  which  is  respectfully  submitted  to  the  reader. 

G.  M.  T.  JOHNSON. 

BINGHAMTON,  N.  Y.,  June  i,  1886. 


PRACTICAL  POULTRY  KEEPING. 


THE  HEN — the  subject  of  this  book — remains  very  much  the 
same  one  year  with  another,  as  to  her  nature,  and  the  best  way  of 
handling  her  ;  and  our  aim  is  to  get  as  good  a  knowledge  as  pos- 
sible of  her  and  her  needs,  that  we  may  use  her  to  our  profit. 

We  will  never  know  all.  Experience  and  observation  are  con- 
tinually showing  us  new  facts,  and  our  way  should  be  to  take  pos- 
session of  every  new  fact  we  can  get,  and  call  for  more  ;  exchange 
notes  with  each  other,  and  prove  them. 

In  the  spring  of  1867  I  issued  my  POULTRY  KEEPERS'  HANDBOOK, 
which  was  the  nucleus  of  PRACTICAL  POULTRY  KEEPING,  issued  in 
the  spring  of  1880  ;  second  edition  issued  February  I,  1881  ;  third 
edition  issued  January  i,  1883  ;  fourth  edition  issued  January  I,  1884. 

On  the  getting  out  of  each  new  edition  I  have  had  occasion  to 
add  more  or  less  to  the  one  preceding,  as  my  observation  and  expe- 
rience, in  the  intervening  time,  had  taught  me.  Now,  as  I  get  out 
my  fifth  edition,  I  shall  cut  out  some  of  my  fourth,  and  add  new 
matter  which  I  deem  of  more  importance  to  the  keeper  of  poultry. 
I  have  observed  some  things  over  so  many  times,  that  to  me  they 
become  laws,  and  I  shall  give  them,  even  though  I  am  in  conflict 
with  some  generally  accepted  theories.  I  am  pleased  with  the  fact 
that  many  have  written  me,  giving  my  former  editions  highest  praise 
as  a  most  practical  book.  Some  authors  have  copied  long  para- 
graphs, and  in  places  almost  pages,  but  not  telling  their  readers 
that  they  had  copied, — which  made  a  clear  case  of  theft. 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING. 


I  do  not  theorize  much.  Many  persons  have  been  misled,  and 
lost  money  by  following  theories.  Parties  have  come  to  me  rather 
•complainingly  because  I  do  not  fall  in  with  teachings  which  they  do 
not  claim  have  ever  been  demonstrated,  but  are  the  notions  of  some 
poultryman. 

I  can  only  say,  facts  are  trie  same,  and  we  must  accept  of  them. 
A  fair  trial  will  prove  them,  but  the  trial  is  always  attended  with 
•expense.  I,  like  others,  may  be  mistaken,  but  I  give  this  book  a 
very  modest  title:  "PRACTICAL  POULTRY  KEEPING,  AS  I  UNDER- 
STAND IT." 

The  keeping  of  poultry  successfully  is  one  of  the  most  simple 
accomplishments,  and  if  there  is  one  thing  more  than  another  that 
will  characterize  this  little  book,  it  is  its  simplicity.  One  of  the 
greatest  errors  which  writers  have  made,  is  the  making  it  appear 
that  the  keeping  of  poultry  successfully  was  some  high  art,  attain- 
able only  at  great  expense.  The  appearance  of  a  well-kept  yard  of 
fowls,  as  compared  with  a  neglected  yard,  is  as  much  the  superior 
as  high  art  is  above  ignorance,  and  will  lend  strength  to  the  theory, 
but  it  is  a  mistake.  It  requires  good  judgment,  simple  and  pure, 
'first  and  last.  ^See  Part  II.,  POULTRY  FOR  PLEASURE  AND  POUL- 
TRY FOR  PROFIT:  "What  is  required  for  making  the  keeping  of 
Poultry  both  pleasant  and  profitable?") 

The  greater  mistake  has  been  to  the  other  extreme,  and  the  great- 
•est  neglect  has  characterized  the  handling  of  fowls.  I  would  be 
•understood  to  say  that  great  expenses  are  not  necessary,  but  great 
care  and  personal  attention  are  the  main  requisites  to  success. 

I  believe  I  am  safe  in  saying,  that  in  no  other  department  of  the 
•farm  has  there  been  such  advancement,  of  late  years,  as  in  the 
poultry  yard  ;  for  one  reason,  that  in  no  other  department  has  there 
•been  such  neglect  and  abuse ;  and  another  is,  that  there  has  been 
a  general  awakening  among  the  people  to  the  interest  of  the  hen, 
commonly  called  the  hen  fever,  the  result  of  which  has  been  to 
give  her  a  higher  place.  It  has  been  quite  a  common  idea  for  a 
long  time,  that  poultry  needed  but  little  or  no  care,  and  the  idea  was 
fully  carried  out  in  practice  ;  any  one  could  breed  poultry  ;  no  need 
of  papers  and  books  on  the  subject.  The  scrawny,  awkward,  ill- 
-shaped,  limping,  non-producing  fowl  which  used  to  disgrace  our 
farm-yards  was  the  natural  product  of  this  notion.  Where  a  person 
has  an  unlimited  range,  and  wants  to  raise  only  a  few  for  eggs  and 
his  own  table,  without  regard  to  purity  of  blood  or  fine  qualities,  it 
is  easy  enough  to  breed  poultry,  such  as  it  is.  All  he  has  to  do  is 
to  let  the  hen  manage  her  own  affairs.  But  more  attention  is  now 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING.  $ 

paid  to  this  long  neglected  branch.  People  are  not  satisfied  so 
easily.  They  want  fine  poultry, — large,  good  layers,  and  handsome. 
They  are  willing  to  give  more  attention  to  the  fowls,  believing  they 
receive  big  returns  for  all  extra  care  and  expense,  besides  the 
pleasure  derived.  When  fowls  are  raised  in  numbers  higher  than 
twenty  or  thirty,  or  more  varieties  than  one  on  a  farm,  more  attention 
and  vigilance  is  required  to  keep  the  fowls  in  good  growing  condi- 
tion, and  to  guard  against  disease,  vermin  and  the  like,  to  which 
the  fowl  in  confinement  is  so  subject.  As  the  first  rule  to  success, 
I  would  emphasize  the  old  adage — 

"He  who  by  the  plow  would  thrive, 
Himself  must  either  hold  or  drive." 

So,  he  who  would  succeed  best  in  keeping  poultry,  must  attend 
to  his  own  flocks  ;  keep  an  eye  on  every  branch  of  the  business  ;  see 
that  none  of  it  is  slighted  ;  must  not  pervert  the  nature  of  the  fowl, 
but  must  have  ample  accommodations,  and  such  as  are  adapted  to 
their  wants  ;  he  himself  must  be  willing  to  work  ;  must  have  a  sys- 
tem, and  definite  objects  to  be  attained,  and  work  to  those  ends. 

The  hen  should  be  regarded,  by  all  who  undertake  to  profit  by  her, 
as  a  machine  To  succeed  with  her  is  to  understand  her  necessities, 
and  to  do  everything  for  her  that  will  aid  her  along  in  her  natural 
course,  and  remove  all  obstructions.  This  implies  a  well-built  fowL 
symmetrical,  of  strong  blood,  and  pleasant  to  look  upon.  It  im- 
plies that  she  should  have  ample,  well  ventilated  and  healthy  quar- 
ters ;  that  she  should  be  fed  with  those  things  that  will  strengthen 
her  and  keep  her  healthy ;  that  she  should  be  protected  from  all 
attacks  of  vermin,  and  disease  in  every  form  ;  she  should  be  made 
cheerful  and  happy.  This  is  the  substance  of  the  business  of  breed- 
ing poultry  for  success. 

Third  rule  :  To  handle  the  hen  with  as  little  loss  of  time  and  use- 
less expense  as  possible. 

These  three  heads  are  the  substance  of  the  following  pages.  He 
who  can  not  attend  to  his  own  business,  and  do  it  himself,  or  tries 
to  adapt  the  hen  to  something  contrary  to  her  nature  ;  who  crowds 
the  machine  to  overwork,  or  neglects  her  wants,  or  is  extravagant 
in  outlays, — is  the  one  who  fails  in  the  poultry  business. 


PART  I. 
POULTRY   HOUSES   AND   YARDS. 

One  of  the  most  attractive  features  of  a  home,  is  a  comely  Poul- 
try House.  The  fine  barns  and  sheds,  for  horses  and  cattle,  seem 
out  of  place  without  a  good  accompanying  fowl  house.  The  broad 
lawns  look  lonesome  without  a  few  fowls  of  some  choice  breed, 
and  there  is  a  dullness  which  makes  a  man  homesick  if  he  can  not 
hear  the  grand  crow  of  the  cock,  or  the  happy  cackle  of  a  hen  ;  and 
it  will  help  to  drive  off  a  fit  of  melancholy  to  see  chicks  in  a  race 
for  grasshoppers,  or  pulling  at  either  end  of  a  long  worm. 

The  accommodations  for  fowls,  such  as  houses  and  yards,  can  be 
made  and  arranged  in  such  a  way  as  will  give  the  owner  a  feeling  of 
pride  every  time  he  looks  upon  them,  or  shows  a  friend.  They  may 
be  warm,  dry,  clean,  well  ventilated,  healthy  and  comfortable  (and 
all  this  they  should  be),  and  at  little  expense.  They  may  also  be  so 
built  and  arranged,  with  but  little  if  any  extra  expense,  as  to  be 
pleasing  to  the  eye,  and  in  this  way  a  source  of  pleasure  to  the  owner. 
I  regard  of  a  great  deal  of  importance  the  selection  of  a  site.  Much 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING. 


depends  on  this  afterwards.  A  person  can  well  afford  to  spend  sev- 
eral days  arranging  and  trying  different  sites  before  he  builds,  and 
even  after  he  does  once  get  started,  and  finds  he  has  made  a  mistake, 
it  is  better  to  tear  down  and  build  again,  than  to  be  hampered  by 
some  inconvenience  or  obstacle  ever  afterward.  Of  course  one  has  to 
conform  to  grounds  and  other  outbuildings  many  times.  It  is  often 
best  to  fix  up  rooms  in  buildings  already  on  the  place.  In  that  case 
fix  them  up  as  one's  own  judgment  would  suggest,  but  where  a  site 
is  to  be  selected  or  a  house  to  be  built,  these  two  very  essential 
points  must  be  kept  in  view  :  ist,  To  guard  against  anything  that 
would  hurt  or  destroy  ;  and,  2d,  To  advance  everything  that  would 
tend  to  the  prosperity  of  the  flock.  Select  a  site  that  will  be  con- 
venient for  handling,  and  near  enough  to  the  house  to  be  able  to 
protect  them  and  care  for  them,  but  not  so  near  as  to  be  annoying. 
I  should  prefer  a  site  where  I  could,  whenever  I  wished,  give  the 
fowls  full  range  of  the  yard,  by  opening  little  doors  in  the  houses  or 
yards.  It  sometimes  comes  very  convenient  to  let  them  have  full 
range,  as  they  do  no  hurt,  at  certain  seasons,  but  rather  do  good,  by 
picking  bugs,  worms,  seeds,  etc.,  around  the  house,  yard,  barn  and 
granary.  At  the  same  time,  it  is  best  to  locate  and  build  so  we  can 
protect  our  fowls  from  inclement  weather  or  diseases,  and  fight  all 
intruders  with  the  advantage  on  our  side.  Skunks  and  owls  do  not 
mind  the  location  of  the  hen-house  much,  but  with  rats  it  makes  a 
great  difference.  I  do  not  know  of  any  other  enemy  the  fowls  have 
to  contend  with  so  annoying,  or  one  so  richly  endowed  with  what  is 
vulgarly  called  cheek.  They  will  often  come  out  in  one's  very  pres- 
ence, and,  in  spite  of  all  our  efforts,  will  carry  off  chickens  as  large 
as  quails,  and  whole  broods  in  two  or  three  days,  and  perhaps  eat 
them  in  the  grass  or  vines  within  six  feet  of  us,  or  under  the  stoop 
or  walk  on  which  we  stand.  They,  of  course,  must  have  a  hiding- 
place  near, — perhaps  under  a  barn  or  shed,  or  in  a  wall  or  pile  of 
boards  :  without  that  they  are  never  troublesome  ;  and  this  furnishes 
quite  a  safeguard,  to  give  them  no  place  in  which  to  hide.  It  is  not 
best  to  locate  a  house  near  any  such  thing.  It  is  almost  impossible 
to  get  rid  of  them  till  we  tear  away  their  hiding-places.  One  or  two 
good  cats,  which  can  discriminate  between  poultry  and  prey — (that 
is  a  very  important  point) — with  full  range  round  the  coops,  are  very 
valuable. 

Select  a  dry  site.  Dampness  is  disease  and  death  to  poultry. 
I  think  many  yards  are  subject  to  ravages  of  chicken  cholera,  roup, 
and  vermin,  from  a  damp  location,  and  there  is  no  remedy  other 
than  to  change  the  site. 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING. 


I  prefer  no  floor  other  than  earth,  higher  than  the  ground  outside, 
to  keep  out  the  water.  A  board  floor  furnishes  hiding-places  for 
rats.  It  is  well  to  cover  the  floor  with  sawdust,  fine  road  dust,  sand 
or  ashes,  to  the  depth  of  two  inches,  if  convenient.  It  is  an  easy 
way  to  keep  the  house  clean,  and  the  ashes  are  well  appreciated  by 
the  hens  for  a  dust  bath.  If  this  is  not  convenient,  throw  in  any 
top  soil,  and  in  either  case  rake  off  the  droppings  often,  and  change 
the  dust  or  ashes  as  often  as  convenient.  1  have  found  leaves  of 
shade  trees,  gathered  in  the  fall  and  thrown  in  the  houses,  even  to 
the  depth  of  two  feet,  a  most  beneficial  practice.  The  hens  lay  in 
them  on  cold  days.  They  serve  to  keep  the  fowls  clean,  and  add  to 
the  appearance  of  the  house. 

VENTILATION. 

This  is  a  very  important  pan  of  the  fowl  house,  and  brings  its 
own  reward.  If  provided  with  pure  air,  clean  food  and  water,  and 
protected  from  rain,  extreme  heat  and  cold,  and  sudden  changes, 
fowls  will  generally  be  well.  The  air  gets  to  be  very  foul  unless 
the  house  is  provided  with  good  ventilation.  I  have  known  flocks 
of  fowls  to  be  taken  with  canker  and  roup  by  being  confined  in 
close,  tight  houses  ;  and  I  have  known  them  to  recover  simply  by 
giving  them  rooms  with  plenty  of  fresh  and  pure  air.  Air  may  be 
very  cold,  and  yet  very  impure.  Many  houses  are  so  built  as  to  let 
in  air  enough  through  the  cracks.  This  is  wrong,  as  the  wind  blow- 
ing on  the  fowls  causes  them  to  take  cold  ;  but  it  is  better  than  to 
have  the  building  too  tight.  The  house  should  be  very  tight  against 
wind  and  rain,  and  the  ventilation  ample  ;  as  high  in  the  peak  as 
possible  ;  also  an  opening  at  the  bottom  so  arranged  as  not  to  allow 
a  direct  draft  on  the  fowls  at  roost.  Fresh  air  will  come  in  the 
opening  near  the  ground,  and  foul  air  pass  out  at  the  peak. 

The  opening  for  the  fowls  to  pass  out  and  in  by,  will  often  furnish 
sufficient  ventilation  near  the  ground  ;  and  during  very  windy  and 
rainy  weather,  this  opening  should  be  closed.  Where  fowls  are 
troubled  with  roup  and  canker,  we  should  look  well  to  the  ventila- 
tion. One  great  objection  to  crowding  fowls,  is  the  fact  that  it  is 
hard  to  give  them  the  amount  of  fresh  air  necessary,  without  expos- 
ing them.  If  I  were  to  be  asked  by  what  means  I  believed  fowl 
diseases  come  more  than  by  any  other,  I  would  say  by  foul  air. 
One  great  consideration  in  favor  of  the  Appletree  fowl,  is  the  fact 
that  they  get  good  air,  and  do  not  breathe  that  which  is  dead,  or  the 
fumes  arising  from  heated  and  unclean  ground. 


10  PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING. 


They  should  be  so  built  as  to  be  for  the  comfort  and  health  of  the 
fowls.  Round  poles,  one  and  a  half  or  two  inches  in  diameter,  with 
bark  on,  are  best.  Observe  the  fowl  when  she  selects  her  own  roost- 
ing place.  She  will  choose  suqh  limbs  of  trees  as  she  can  grasp  with 
her  feet.  It  is  well  to  have  them  so  arranged  that  they  can  be  easily 
cleaned,  either  in  their  places  or  by  taking  them  out,  They  should 
not  be  over  eighteen  inches  from  the  ground,  especially  for  the  large 
fowls,  that  they  may  receive  no  injury  in  getting  off.  Many  fowls, 
particularly  of  the  large  varieties,  sustain  serious  damages  by  flying 
or  jumping  from  high  roosts.  A  fowl  of  eight  or  ten  pounds'  weight, 
jumping  four  or  five  feet,  strikes  very  hard  on  its  feet.  Ladders  are 
often  provided  for  fowls  to  come  down  by,  but  they  never  use  them 
if  in  a  hurry,  as  at  such  times  a  fowl  never  thinks.  The  injuries 
received  are  often  a  hip  or  knee  sprained,  back  twisted  or  foot  cal- 
loused. Crooked  combs  and  tails  are  often  caused  by  roosting 
where  they  rub  their  combs  and  tails  against  sides  of  the  house  or 
floors  above. 

NESTS. 

Considering  the  necessity  of  cleaning,  and  for  the  sake  of  con- 
venience, all  nests  should  be  made  movable.  I  consider  a  plat- 
form, about  eighteen  or  twenty  inches  above  the  ground,  and  roosts 
five  or  six  inches  above  this  platform,  furnish,  under  them,  one  of 
the  best  places  for  nests.  The  boxes  for  nests  should  be  made 
twelve  or  fifteen  inches  square,  and  about  the  same  in  height ;  tight 
on  all  sides  except  the  back,  with  an  opening  in  the  upper  part  of 
the  back  ;  the  nest  made  in  the  box.  There  should  be  sufficient 
opening  allowed  between  the  nest-box  and  side  of  the  building  for 
the  convenient  passing  and  turning  of  the  hen  in  going  to  and  from 
her  nest. 

In  this  way  the  hens  can  be  hid  when  they  lay, — and  they  like 
seclusion.  It  serves  as  a  preventive  from  hens  eating  eggs,  as  the 
nests  are  quite  dark. 

When  gathering  the  eggs,  it  is  only  necessary  to  turn  the  boxes 
round.  They  are  easily  taken  out  and  cleaned,  and  this  should  be 
done  once  or  twice  a  year.  The  nests  should  be  so  roomy  as  not 
to  damage  the  feathers,  and  no  larger. 

DOORS. 

If  convenient  to  put  the  door  on  the  south  or  east  side,  it  is  pief- 
erable  in  our  northern  climate,  as  the  cold  winds  will  drive  through 
every  opening,  no  matter  how  small  ;  but  if  it  is  not  convenient, 


PRACTICAL  POULTRY  KEEPING.         1 1 

special   pains   should   be   taken   to    shut   out   the  wind.      Narrow 
matched  boards  make  the  cheapest  and  most  substantial  door. 


It  is  a  great  point  gained  when  a  house  can  have  a  southern  ex- 
posure, and  windows  on  the  south  side  to  let  in  the  light  and  heat. 
Sunlight  will  do  much  to  keep  the  house  dry  and  fowls  healthy. 
They  bask  in  it  and  enjoy  it.  By  putting  windows  as  much  to  the 
sun  as  possible  we  have  made  quite  a  point  to  health  in  our  flock. 
These  windows  should  be  made  so  as  to  slide,  and  narrow  strips 
nailed  over  the  openings,  making  it  very  cool  and  pleasant  for  sum- 
mer use. 

FEED   BOXES. 

One  of  the  most  convenient  articles  of  furniture  is  a  suitable 
feed  box.  It  should  be  so  built  as  to  allow  the  fowl  to  put  in  its 
head,  but  not  its  feet.  So  strong  is  the  propensity  in  the  hen  to 
scratch,  and  so  fearful  that  she  will  forget  how  to  act  when  she  is  so 
unspeakably  happy  as  to  get  into  a  flower  bed,  that  she  will  put  her 
feet  in  the  middle  of  a  dish  of  feed,  and  scratch. 

A  good  and  cheap  plan  is  to  arrange  a  box,  opening  at  the  top  by 
a  lid,  with  slats  at  the  side,  running  up  and  down.  Put  the  feed  in 
the  box  :  the  fowls  will  then  get  all  they  want,  and  leave  the  rest. 
Never  throw  soft  feed  on  the  ground  or  in  the  grass.  It  is  a  great 
waste. 

DRINKING   VESSELS. 

All  things  considered,  I  believe  galvanized  iron  dishes  are  the 
best.  We  can  have  them  made  of  any  size  or  shape.  They  are  not 
easily  broken,  and  will  not  rust.  They  can  be  cleansed  with  hot 
water,  and  with  careful  usage  will  last  a  dozen  years.  Earthen  ves- 
sels protected  against  breaking,  are  good,  — they  are  so  easily  cleaned . 

The  drinking  vessels  should  be  kept  in  a  shady  place,  rinsed  every 
day,  and  scalded  every  week.  Fowl  diseases  are  transmitted  Urough 
the  drinking  vessels,  to  a  great  extent. 

HOUSES— SMALL  AND    LARGE. 

How  large  it  is  best  to  build,  will  depend  entirely  on  what  we  are 
building  for.  If  it  is  proposed  to  separate  the  flocks,  and  give  each 
a  good  run,  it  will  be  best  to  build  small  houses,  and  allow  but  few 
fowls  to  the  house.  If  it  is  necessary  to  put  a  larger  number  to- 
gether, then  the  house  must  be  larger.  It  is  never  safe  to  crowd 
the  fowls.  If  the  grounds  are  such  that  it  is  desirable  to  put  two 
or  three  flocks  of  ten  fowls  each  in  the  building,  it  will  be  necessary 
to  give  them  double  or  three  times  the  size  of  the  house  on  the 


12 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING. 


ground  ;  or  when  it  is  desired  to  put  as  man)-  as  one  hundred  fowls 
in  one  building,  it  will  necessarily  be  as  much  larger.  It  is  not  as 
easy  to  keep  fowls  clean  and  healthy,  when  so  many  run  together  in 
one  building,  as  diseases  and  vermin  spread  so  easily  by  contact. 

When  fowls  are  separated,"  one  yard  may  suffer  the  ravages  of 
cholera,  and  the  other  not  be  affected. 

PLANS   FOR   SMALL   HOUSES. 

In  many  respects,  houses  so  small  as  to  be  movable  are  to  be  pre- 
ferred. It  is  so  much  easier  tending  them,  and  protecting  them 
from  rats  and  vermin.  We  can  then  generally  give  them  greater 
runs  ;  it  is  easier  keeping  them  clean  ;  if  desired,  they  can  be  moved 
any  distance,  and  the  ground  plowed  and  cultivated  to  crops,  which 
is  the  quickest  way  to  eradicate  poisons. 

I  give  here  ground  plan  and  upright  view  of  small  poultry  house: 


It  is  very  convenient  for  moving,  as  it.  can  be  put  on  a  sled  or 
stone-boat,  or  can  be  carried  by  four  men  easily.  It  is  suitable  for 
a  cock  and  four  or  five  hens,  or,  if  pressed  to  it,  will  accommodate 
twice  that  number.  If  built  of  ten-inch  boards,  they  will  cut  with 
but  little  waste.  Ground  plan,  40  x  60  inches  ;  front,  40  inches  on 
ground  ;  one  side  3  feet  high,  the  other  6  feet  ;  door,  18  or  20  inches 
by  3^  feet.  Fora  window,  it  will  require  but  one  pane  of  glass. 
Ventilation  near  the  peak. 

Another,  large  enough  for  a  cock  and  six  or  eight  hens  : 


Ground  plan,  50 x  70  inches  ;  front,  50  inches  broad  ;  sides,  4  feet 
high  ;  center,  7^  feet  high  ;  door,  4  feet  high. 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING. 


Here  is  a  warm  and  cheap  little  coop,  well  adapted  for  a  cock 
and  five  or  six  hens.  It  is  4  feet  long,  3  feet  wide,  and  4  feet  high. 
Sash,  3x4  feet,  which  may  be  raised  or  removed  entirely.  The  size 
can  easily  be  increased,  if  desired. 

But  the  houses  ran  be  made  still  larger,  and  yet  be  movable. 
I  have  found  the  accompanying  plan  small  enough  where  I  wished 
to  have  a  breeding  pen  of  eight  or  ten  fowls  I  have  tried  several 
patterns,  and  like  the  arrangement  of  this  the  best : 


This  little  building  is  four  feet  by  six  on  the  ground.  I  first 
build  a  frame  of  boards  ten  or  twelve  inches  wide,  of  the  size  of 
the  ground  plan,  which  I  set  perfectly  level.  I  then  put  in  dirt  to 
the  depth  of  about  six  inches,  so  it  will  be  dry  in  all  seasons,  and 
on  this  frame  I  put  the  sills,  made  of  2  x  4  inch  sticks.  I  next  cut 
two  corner  boards  six  feet  long,  and  two  four  feet  long  ;  nail  a  six- 
foot  board  on  each  of  the  front  corners,  and  plumb  them  ;  nail  four- 


PRACTICAL  POULTRY  KEEPING. 


foot  boards  on  the  rear  corners,  and  plumb  them.  I  then  nail  a 
strip  around  the  top  from  corner  to  corner,  to  nail  the  boards  to, — 
and  the  frame  is  made.  Next,  side  up,  leaving  places  for  doors 
and  windows.  -, 

I  have  used  matched  and  surfaced  boards  for  sides  and  roof, 
which  made  a  very  tight  house  ;  and  by  painting  sid-es  and  roof,  I 
have  had  very  warm  and  serviceable  little  houses.  These  buildings 
are  easily  moved.  The  inside  arrangement  is  very  simple  and  con- 
venient. At  the  rear  of  the  house  I  place  pieces  of  boards,  of  the 
right  width,  on  the  sills  to  raise  the  platform,  which  rests  on  them, 
about  twelve  inches  high,  and  on  these  I  place  boards  so  as  to  make 
the  platform  about  eighteen  or  twenty  inches  wide,  and  on  these  I 
place  strips  of  board  about  six  inches  wide,  and  on  these  I  place 
the  roosts.  Under  this  platform  I  arrange  the  boxes,  open  at  the 
back,  for  nests.  The  hen,  when  wishing  to  lay,  will  prefer  to  go 
around  in  the  dark  to  her  nest,  and  'fowls  not  having  any  business 
there,  will  not  go  unless  evil  inclined. 

It  is  quite  a  protection  against  egg-eating.  The  nests,  roosts  and 
platform  can  be  taken  out  at  any  time  in  a  few  minutes,  when  de- 
sired to  clean.  When  a  little  larger  house  is  wanted,  I  would  offer 
the  following  as  a  good  plan  : 


It  is  a  little  house  which  is  well  calculated  for  a  city  lot.  If  built 
of  matched  boards  or  of  surfaced  boards,  and  battened  and  painted, 
will  make  a  pretty  house.  It  can  be  made  eight,  ten  or  twelve 
feet  long,  and  five  to  eight  feet  broad,  according  to  taste  and  wants. 
It  is  sometimes  desirable  to  cut  up  such  small  houses  into  quite 
small  quarters — say  for  a  cock  and  two  or  three  hens,  when  the 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING.  15 

eggs  of  a  particular  mating  are  wanted — which  can  be  easily  done 
by  lath  partitions,  giving  each  a  yard  on  the  outside  by  itself.  If 
this  house  is  made  of  rough  hemlock,  and  the  cracks  not  covered, 
it  will  be  cold,  and  no  ornament.  The  extra  expense  will  well  pay 
the  man  of  taste.  If  rough  boards  are  used,  the  water-lime  paint 
will  improve  appearances,  at  small  cost.  (See  recipes.)  There 
must  be  pitch  enough  to  the  roof  to  turn  the  water  readily.  How  to 
cover  these  small  houses,  so  as  to  turn  the  water  and  be  warm,  has 
been  quite  a  question  with  me.  It  has  been  difficult  to  get  a  house 
warm  enough  to  preserve  the  combs  of  my  Spanish  and  Leghorns, 
when  the  mercury  was  below  zero.  Matched  and  surfaced  boards 
are  used  successfully,  if  painted  with  two  coats  of  coal  tar,  on  a  hot 
day.  I  have  succeeded  best  by  first  covering  the  building  with  dry, 
rough  hemlock  boards,  running  up  and  down  ;  the  roof  at  an  angle 
of  forty-five  degrees.  Over  this  I  put  the  tarred  paper,  and  over 
the  cracks  nail  lath,  and  over  all  I  put  a  coat  of  coal  tar.  This  will 
need  a  coat  of  tar  once  in  two  or  three  years.  Over  the  sides  of  the 
rough  board  house  I  put  one  or  two  thicknesses  of  newspaper,  and 
over  this  I  put  another  thickness  of  half-inch  boards.  In  this  way 
I  have  carried  my  high-combed  fowls  through  the  coldest  winters, 
without  a  fire,  and  not  had  the  combs  touched.  The  house  has  a 
southern  exposure,  with  double  lights  of  glass.  (An  illustration 
of  this  house  is  given  on  page  19  of  POULTRY  FOR  PLEASURE  AND 
POULTRY  FOR  PROFIT.)  Fowls  will  stand  quite  cold  weather,  if  the 
air  is  still,  but  a  cold  wind  is  hard  on  them.  During  very  cold, 
snowy  and  wet  weather,  I  shut  the  little  doors  leading  to  the  yards. 
Fowls  take  great  hurt  out  at  such  times.  Ventilation  in  the  ends, 
near  the  peak.  The  drawing  is  faulty  :  it  does  not  show  it. 

PLANS   FOR   LARGE   HOUSES. 

Where  so  much  expense  is  involved  as  in  the  building  of  a  large 
house,  it  is  best  to  move  quite  slowly.  If  a  person  is  positive  he 
will  always  want  the  house  for  poultry  and  nothing  else,  it  will  be 
well  enough  to  build  with  nothing  else  in  view.  But  there  are  many 
who  have,  with  full  confidence,  bought  and  built  extensively,  bred 
for  one  or  two  years,  and  then  given  up  all.  In  these  cases,  where 
their  houses  were  built  not  allowing  for  any  change,  many  of  the 
buildings  have  been  unsuitable  for  anything  else  :  hence  it  is  that  I 
suggest  that  buildings  should  be  constructed  in  such  a  manner  that 
they  will  answer  for  other  purposes  than  poultry  keeping.  I  like 
the  plan  of  putting  the  house  in  such  a  position,  and  so  built,  that 
it  will  answer  for  a  barn  or  stable.  A  little  building,  .16  x  20  feet, 
can  be  nicely  arranged  for  eight  flocks  of  fowls,  and  would  be  a 


i6 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING. 


convenient  building  in  almost  any  place.  This  would  allow  for  a 
four-foot  hall-way  running  the  length  of  the  building,  with  four 
small  apartments  in  each  side — quite  small,  but  will  allow  for  a 
cock  and  eight  or  ten  hens.  A  building  20x25  or  30  would  be 
better  still.  I  am  often  asked  the  cost  of  buildings  of  different 
sizes  and  shapes.  This  I  am  unable  to  give,  as  the  price  of  lumber 
in  some  localities  would  be  double  what  it  would  be  in  others,  and 
help  is  often  much  higher. 

When  it  is  desired  to  build  a  permanent  house,  with  accommoda- 
tions for  four  or  more  flocks,  I  would  give  the  following,  as  simple, 
cheap,  and  easily  managed  : 


The  several  apartments  will  accommodate  eight  or  twelve  hens 
each.  Ground  plan,  12  x  24  feet ;  partition  running  lengthwise  four 
feet  from  the  higher  side,  cutting  the  building  into  two  sections — 
4x24  feet,  and  8x24  feet.  Cut  the  larger  up  into  smaller  apart- 
ments, 6x8  feet.  One  broad  side  (the  lower  preferred)  should  face 
the  south,  with  windows.  If  the  broad  side  is  to  the  front,  the  par- 
tition between  rooms  Nos.  r  and  2  can  extend  across  the  entry  way. 
So  can  the  partition  between  Nos.  3  and  4.  If  the  end  is  to  the 
front,  the  door  will  be  in  the  end,  as  in  the  diagram.  There  are 
many  different  plans  which  are  good.  Let  the  proprietor  use  his 
own  pencil,  and  draw  plans  to  suit  his  own  tastes,  demands  and 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING.  I/ 

means.  It  is  understood  where  we  keep  fowls,  as  in  the  large  house, 
it  will  be  necessary  to  give  them  more  care  to  keep  them  healthy 
than  as  though  there  was  only  one  flock  on  the  grounds.  Of  course 
a  separate  yard  is  demanded  for  each  apartment.  The  partitions 
of  houses  and  yards  should  be  tight  for  two  or  three  feet  from  the 
ground,  to  prevent  the  cocks  fighting  between  yards.  A  good  paint, 
especially  for  a  rough  house,  is  my  water-lime  paint.  (See  recipes.) 
I  am  indebted  to  the  Country  Gentleman  for  the  accompanying  cut 
of  house,  with  part  sash  roof.  This  house  should  face  the  south,  to 
get  full  benefit  of  the  glass.  This  makes  a  very  light  house,  and 
when  the  sun  shines  at  all,  it  makes  a  warm  house.  If  the  sash 
could  not  be  lifted,  on  very  warm  days,  it  would  make  the  building 
much  too  \varm. 


The  dimensions  are:  Length  in  front,  n  feet;  depth,  12  feet; 
from  bottom  of  sill  to  top  of  plate,  4  feet  3  inches  ;  from  bottom  of 
sill  to  peak  of  roof,  9  feet  7  inches  ;  lone  rafters,  ro  feet  4^  inches  ; 
short  rafters,  5  feet  2  inches.  The  sash  are  so  arranged  that  they 
can  be  drawn  down  from  the  top  to  give  ventilation. 

Two  perches  run  the  length  of  the  building,  in  the  rear,  and  are 
raised  about  2j£  feet  from  the  floor.  Under  the  perches  is  a 
scaffold,  to  catch  the  droppings.  Beneath  the  scaffold  are  arranged 
the  nest-boxes,  for  which  purpose  loose  boxes  are  used.  A  strip  of 
board  4  inches  wide  is  tacked  on  to  the  sill  at  the  ends  of  the  house, 
and  here  the  feed  is  placed.  The  house  is  large  enough  to  accom- 
modate from  thirty  to  fifty  fowls.  It  was  built  at  a  cost  of  $42.00, 
including  window-sash  and  painting.  The  sides  are  of  matched 
boards  ;  the  roof  shingles. 

It  will  be  seen  that  the  drawing  is  faulty.  Either  the  height  from 
bottom  of  sill  to  top  of  plate  is  seven  or  eight  feet,  instead  of  four 
feet  three  inches,  or  the  door  in  the  drawing  is  too  small. 

Geo.  K.  Hawley,  of  Glen's  Falls,  N.  Y.,  a  breeder  of  American 
Dominiques,  furnishes  the  accompanying  cut  of  a  house  on  his 
grounds,  with  the  following  description  : 


18 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING. 


A   PRACTICAL    POULTRY    HOUSE. 

"The  above  cut  is  the  representation  of  a  building  20  feet  long, 
8  feet  wide  on  the  bottom,  6  feet  high  in  the  rear,  6j^  ft:et  in  roof. 
It  is  built  of  matched  and  dressed  lumber  (pine  the  best)  for  the 
outside,  battened  with  strips  and  well  painted.  The  frame  is  3  by 
4  joist,  lathed  and  filled  in  with  sawdust  on  a!l  sides  and  roof,  then 
plastered.  Gravel  bottom.  Three  windows,  twelve  lights  9  by  13, 
both  sash  movable  ;  and  a  light  frame  inside,  one-half  the  size  of  the 
window,  prevents  the  escape  of  the  fowls  when  the  sash  are  raised. 
or  dropped.  The  building  may  be  divided  into  three  comfortable 
coops,  with  lattice  partitions,  and  two  lengths  of  roosts,  under  which 
is  a  platform  to  catch  the  droppings,  thereby  insuring  cleanliness. 
The  nests  are  'secret,'  built  on  the  ground  under  the  windows. 
A  window  in  the  door  regulates  the  temperature. 

"This  house  has  proved  a  success  during  a  severe  winter,  the 
thermometer  indicating  only  three  degrees  below  freezing,  when  it 
was  twenty-six  below  zero  outside. 


I 
c 

rr  \  \o\  \\ 

GRO'.'NI)    PLAN. 

A— boosts.     B—Door.     C— Entrance  for  Fowls.     D— Secret  Nests" 
I  think  the  house  can  be  made  nearly  as  warm  by  double  board- 
ing  and  one  or  two  thicknesses  of  paper  between,  besides  furnish- 
ing no  place  for  rats. 

HOUSE    FOR    LAYING    AND    SITTING    HKNS. 

Where  several  hens  nre  sitting   at  the  same  time,  it  is  well  to 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY  KEEPING. 


have  each  nest  connected  with  a  covered  runway,  in  which  food 
and  water  may  be  placed  for  the  hen,  and  which  will  prevent  her 
returning  to  the  wrong  nest,  or  being  disturbed  by  the  attempts 


FIGURE    I. 

of  other  hens  to  lay  to  her.  Such  an  arrangement  is  shown  in 
figures  i  and  2,  and  which  represent  the  plan  of  a  sitting-house 
contrived  by  a  conespoudent  of  Farm  and  Fireside. 


FIGURE   2. 

"This  house  is  made  for  fifty  hens,  and  is  twelve  feet  long  from 
east  to  west,  by  eight  feet  wide  from  north  to  south.  There  are 
doors  at  the  east  and  west  ends,  and  sliding  glass  windows,  six  by 
eight  feet  in  size,  on  the  south  side.  Boards,  six  feet  long  by  one 
foot  wide,  are  set  on  edge  under  the  north  side  in  such  a  way  as  to 
form  boxes  one  foot  square  inside  the  house,  and  one  foot  by  five 
feet  outside.  The  inside  boxes  are  used  for  laying  and  hatching, 
and  are  connected  by  doors  with  the  outside  boxes,  which  are  used 
for  feed  boxes,  and  are  covered  with  lath  nailed  so  close  together 


2O  PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING. 

that  the  young  chicks  cannot  get  out.  The  inside  boxes  have  lids, 
which  are  shut  down  when  the  hen  is  set,  and  the  doors  to  the  outside 
box  is  then  opened.  Feed,  water,  gravel,  etc.,  are  placed  in  this 
outside  box,  and  the  hen  will  thus  be  able  to  help  herself  without 
being  interfered  with  by  other  hens." 

I  think  an  improvement  on  the  plan  would  be  to  allow  only  eight 
nests  and  eight  runs,  instead  of  twelve. 

It  is  often  that  the  lay  of  the  yards  is  best  adapted  to  a  house 
with  the  higher  side  toward  the  north.  In  that  case  the  windows 
will  be  best  on  the  lower  side.  Here  is  a  drawing  of  such  a  house  : 


It  will  do  very  well  as  a  lean-to  on  the  south  side  of  a  barn  or 
shed.  In  that  case  it  ought  to  make  a  very  warm  house.  In  the 
drawing  is  wire  netting  over  the  glass,  to  protect  it.  Over  the  sash 
and  over  the  doors  are  ventilators,  which  should  be  regulated  ac- 
cording to  the  weather.  On  the  south  side,  just  in  front  of  the 
windows,  is  the  best  place  for  a  dust-bath  for  the  hens.  The  house 
has  no  floor,  and  the  dry  earth  and  ashes  make  a  good  place  for  the 
hens  to  dust  themselves.  The  nests  are  on  the  north  side,  under  a 
little  platform,  over  which  are  the  roosts.  The  yards  are  on  either 
side,  as  most  convenient. 

The  first  cut  on  next  page  is  of  a  cheap  house,  well  calculated  for 
very  cold  climates.  If  we  can  have  the  roosts  low,  and  in  the  hack 
part  of  the  building,  and  the  roof  partly  covered  with  straw,  or  even 
dirt,  it  will  make  a  good  winter  house.  It  should  face  the  south,  if 
possible.  Next,  an  easterly  front  is  most  desirable. 

But  a  much  warmer  house  is  the  little  cottage  in  the  hill. 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING. 


21 


These  two  cuts  were  made  especially  for  this  edition,  and  show 
two  houses  suitable  for  our  cold,  northern  climate.     They  can  be 


made  of  either  stone,  brick,  boards  or  logs,  and  at  very  little  ex- 
pense. If  of  stones  or  logs,  it  will  be  necessary  to  make  the  door 
and  window  frames,  and  set  them,  and  fill  in  round  them  ;  fill  in 
the  chinks  with  mud  or  mortar. 

The  temperature  of  this  style  of  house  can  be  kept  so  that  our 
high-combed  fowls  will  come  through  the  severest  winters  with 
combs  untouched.  As  quarters  for  winter  layers  such  a  little  house 


22  PRACTICAL   POULTRY   KEEPING. 

is  number  one.  On  warm  and  sunny  days  the  fowls  can  be  allowed 
a  run  outside,  to  picft  grass  and  fine  gravel.  Hens  so  accommodated 
should  lay  well  during  the  most  of  the  winter,  and  at  a  great  saving 
of  feed. 

HOUSES   VJARMED   BY   FIRE. 

A  Dutchman  is  charged  with  once  saying,  that  he  did  not  see  the 
use  of  a  moon  on  light  nights.  On  dark  nights  is  when  we  want  a 
moon.  As  some  say,  let  the  hen  rest  in  summer,  but  lay  in  winter, 
when  eggs  are  high  ;  and  they  try  to  turn  winter  into  summer,  by 
providing  a  fire  for  their  poultry  houses.  In  this  way  they  hope  to 
obtain  eggs  when  most  needed,  but  I  do  not  hear  of  success  in  this 
attempted  transformation.  If  left  to  themselves,  with  warmly  built 
houses,  they  will  be  prepared  for  the  cold  weather,  and  come  through 
all  right  ;  but  provided  with  fire,  they  will  become  very  tender,  and 
at  a  chance  exposure  to  severe  weather,  will  come  down  with  colds, 
resulting  in  roup,  and  will  present  a  sickly  appearance  by  March, 
with  no  good  prospects  for  summer  business. 

Instead  of  a  house  warmed  by  fire,  I  think,  with  a  tight  building, 
and  double  lights  of  glass  on  south  side,  with  sawdust,  straw  or 
leaves  on  the  floor,  it  is  possible  to  get  quite  a  number  or  eggs  dur- 
ing the  winter  months,  and  at  the  same  time  not  render  the  fowls  so 
extremely  tender  as  to  endanger  their  lives  ;  and  I  would  here  say, 
fowls  can  not  be  taken  from  comfortable  quarters  and  put  in  a  more 
exposed  house  without  danger.  During  the  most  severe  weather, 
when  the  mercury  would  drop  below  zero  outside,  I  think  a  little 
fire,  to  keep  the  tempeiature  in  the  neighborhood  of  freezing,  would 
be  well. 

YARDS. 

Suitable  runs  for  fowls  outside  of  the  building  are  as  essential  as 
the  building  itself.  These  should  be  dry,  as  roomy  as  possible,  and 
with  some  kind  of  a  shade, — either  of  trees,  bushes,  or  a  covered 
run,  if  nothing  more  than  boards  laid  up  against  the  fence,  under 
which  fowls  can  get  out  of  the  hot  rays  of  the  sun.  It  is  a  good 
thing  to  have  the  ground  under  the  shade  well  spaded  up,  with 
ashes  mixed  in,  as  the  fowls  like  to  roll  in  it.  It  is  also  well  to 
spade  up  in  the  yards  often,  and  so  give  the  fowls  fresh  earth. 

For  Brahmas  and  Cochins,  a  picket  fence  four  feet  high  is  suffi- 
cient. For  Leghorns,  Spanish,  Hamburgh  and  Games,  the  fence 
should  be  eight  feet  high,  and  then  it  may  be  necessary  to  clip  the 
flight  feathers  of  one  wing ;  place  the  pickets  not  over  one  and  a 
half  inches  apart.  It  is  often  that  we  want  to  shut  the  chickens, 
when  quite  small,  in  the  yards.  For  ten  fowls,  a  space  equal  to 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING. 


10x20  feet  will  answer,  where  they  can  have  a  grass  run  besides. 
No  suggestions  as  to  shape  are  needed  ;  we  must  conform  to  our 
grounds.  Water-lime  paint  improves  appearances.  (See  recipes.) 
Besides  this  yard,  to  which  fowls  have  access  at  all  times,  a  grass 
run  is  quite  a  help,  but  it  is  not  essential  if  we  will  supply  them 
otherwise.  Where  we  can  have  a  plat  of  grass,  into  which  we  can 
open  a  yard,  long  enough  each  day  for  the  fowls  to  pick,  we  are 
very  fortunate.  One  grass  yard,  if  large  enough,  will  answer  for 
several  flocks,  by  letting  out  one  at  a  time. 


COVERED  RUNS, 

for  chickens,  young  turkeys,  ducks  and  geese,  are  very  convenient 
in  many  respects  :  to  guard  against  cats  and  rats,  and  where  larger 
fowls  would  rob  the  little  ones  of  their  food,  and  in  which  to  con- 
fine young  turkeys  while  the  dews  are  on,  or  the  grass  is  wet. 
They  are  easily  made  of  lath  or  wire  netting,  and  attached  to  the 
coop  in  which  the  hen  is  confined.  A  convenient  size  is  eighteen 
inches  high,  four  feet  wide,  and  eight  feet  long.  It  is  easily 
handled.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  have  such  a  place  for  feeding  the 
chickens  when  they  run  at  large. 


The  slats  should  then  be  far  enough  apart  to  let  them  go  in  and 
out  when  they  choose,  but  not  far  enough  apart  to  admit  larger 
chickens  and  fowls. 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING. 


COOPS, 

in  which  are  confined  the  old  hens,  while  the  chicks  run  at  large, 
though  demanding  so  little  attention  generally,  are  of  some  import- 
ance to  the  chicks.  Some  ate  made  of  boxes  or  barrels,  with  sticks 
driven  down  in  front  ;  but  the  general  plan  is  to  place  two  boards  in 
the  shape  of  the  letter  A,  and  nail  slats  across  them  on  both  sides. 
It  is  not  very  bad  in  mid-summer,  but  in  early  spring  it  is  too  open. 


They  should  be  boarded  tight  behind,  and  slats  in  front,  running 
up  and  down,  j  ust  wide  enough  to  keep  the  hens  confined.  (See  cut.) 
I  think  crooked  backs  are  often  caused  by  chicks  squeezing  through 
the  horizontal  slats  of  their  coop.  The  chicks  should  be  kept  warm 
in  the  spring. 

A    CHEAP   FEEDING-HOPPER. 

"  Here  is  a  plan  for  a  feeding-hopper,  which  can  be  made  out  of 
old  candle-boxes,  for  the  want  of  a  better  thing.  Take  off  the  lid 
and  one  side  ;  let  the  ends,  bottom  and  one  side  remain  ;  cut  a 
small  strip  off  one  end  of  the  lid,  so  that  it  will  ^lip  in  between 
the  ends  of  the  box,  placing  the  lower  edge  one  and  a  half  inches 
from  the  side,  and  an  inch  from  the  bottom  ;  the  other  edge  of  the 
lid  is  to  reach  the  top  and  outside  corners  of  the  ends,  thus  forming 


a  deep  angular  box,  with  aperture  at  the  bottom.  As  shown  in  the 
cut,  the  lid  forms  the  slanting  side  B  :  C  forms  the  trough  where 
the  corn  will  descend  down  to  it,  when  put  into  the  angular  box  ; 
then  put  hinges  on  the  lid  A  ;  the  open  part  of  the  hopper  has  a 
row  (D)  of  slats  two  inches  apart  ;  these  slats  should  be  brought 
to  the  edge  of  the  box,  so  that  the  fowls  can  just  reach  the  bottom 
of  the  angle ;  the  corn  falls  down  as  fast  as  the  fowls  pick  it  away." 
—Poultry  Monthly. 


GROUP   OF    WYANDOTTE    FOWLS. 


PART  II. 
GENERAL  CARE   FOR   HENS. 

When  fowls  have  full  range  of  a  farm,  they  will  do  well  with 
little  extra  care.  Give  them  clean,  warm  shelters  and  plenty  to  eat, 
and  we  will  get  eggs,  and  our  stock  will  be  healthy.  It  will  do 
to  keep  as  many  as  fifty,  if  ample  and  suitable  provisions  are  made 
for  the  fowls  to  lay  and  roost  without  quarreling,  and  we  do  not 
care  to  breed  from  any  particular  birds.  But,  as  a  general  thing,  a 
cock  and  ten  hens  are  enough  for  one  locality.  We  can  then,  with 
rare  exceptions,  depend  upon  the  fertility  of  the  eggs.  Chickens 
properly  cared  for,  will  be  healthy  and  vigorous,  grow  faster,  and 
come  nearer  perfection.  Many  of  the  ills  that  the  hen  is  heir  to, 
her  diseases  and  deformities,  come,  to  a  greater  extent  than  is  gen- 
erally supposed,  directly  or  indirectly  from  being  crowded  ;  and 
this  is  probably  the  cause  of  more  failures  in  the  poultry  business 
than  all  others  together.  When  confined  in  yards,  this  is  still  more 
emphatically  the  case.  It  will  be  essential  to  provide  the  neces- 
saries, comforts  and  luxuries  of  hen  life.  If  for  breeding,  the 
fowls  should  not  be  crowded  to  lay  during  the  winter.  They 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING.  2/ 

should  be  fed  with  whole  grain — no  meal  or  warm  feed — and  little 
meat,  but  more  when  saving  the  eggs  for  setting.  The  fowls  will 
then  be  more  mature,  and  in  vigorous,  healthy  condition.  They 
will  impart  this  vigor  and  health  to  their  chicks,  and  so  we  will 
get  our  pay  for  previous  loss  of  eggs.  They  must  have  warm,  dry 
and  clean  quarters.  By  warm,  I  mean  free  from  sudden  changes 
of  weather,  and  protected  from  the  winds  and  draughts.  I  wish 
to  give  the  force  of  a  full  chapter  to  this  one  line — 
Protect  the  fowls  from  inclement  -weather !  ! 

During  very  cold,  rainy  or  snowy  weather,  the  fowls  should  be 
shut  in  their  houses,  and  not  allowed  out  till  the  weather  is  better, 
if  they  are  shut  up  a  full  week.     Keep  strictly  on  guard  against 
VERMIN. 

To  the  careless  and  negligent  they  are  a  great  pest,  and  often  so 
to  the  careful  man.  The  only  safe  way  is  to  begin  the  fight  before 
they  make  their  appearance.  A  great  help,  and  almost  a  sure  pre- 
vention, is  a  good 

DUST    BATH. 

In  a  broad,  shallow  box — in  the  sun,  if  possible — put  coal  ashes, 
land  piaster,  road  dust,  or  any  dry  earth,  with  some  wood  ashes 
mixed  in,  if  convenient, — if  unleached,  not  over  one-sixth ;  if 
leached,  not  over  one-fourth.  A  pound  of  powdered  sulphur  is  a 
great  addition.  If  convenient,  sift  the  coal  ashes  where  the  fowls 
can  pick  out  the  coal,  and  roll  in  the  ashes.  Charcoal  is  excellent 
for  them.  Throw  down  a  bushel  where  they  can  go  to  it  and  eat 
whenever  they  wish.  In  the  winter,  sand  or  gravel  must  be  pro- 
vided, where  the  hens  do  not  have  free  run  to  an  ash-heap.  In 
summer,  spade  up  the  ground  often  ;  fresh  earth  is  quite  essential. 

NESTS. 

Sawdust,  a  sod  or  soil,  with  fine  rowen  spread  over,  are  good. 
My  objection  to  .hay  is,  that  it  damages  the  manure  by  scattering 
grass  seed.  Sprinkle  sulphur  in  the  nests  when  first  made,  and 
every  two  weeks  afterward, — a  teaspoonful  to  a  nest.  Tansy  in  the 
nest— the  weed  or  the  tincture  of  it — is  good  to  keep  off  vermin. 

THE    FEED 

depends  much  upon  the  time  of  year ;  whether  confined  or  not ; 
the  variety  of  fowls  ;  and  the  object  to  be  obtained.  To  be  healthy, 
they  should  have  green  food.  If  possible,  give  them  a  grass-run  in 
summer.  If  it  cannot  be  given,  extra  care  and  attention  must  be 
devoted  to  them  to  supply  the  loss  In  that  case,  and  in  winter, 
give  them  some  cabbage,  turnips,  beets,  carrots  or  onions,  chopped 


28  PRACTICAL   POULTRY   KEEPING. 

fine  ;  or  a  pumpkin  cut  in  two,  and  let  them  pick  it.  Too  much 
onions  will  cause  the  eggs  to  taste  of  them,  but  for  growing 
chickens  and  breeding  fowls  they  are  excellent — very  appetizing. 
If  farmers  would  give  their  young  turkeys  more  chopped  onions, 
and  less  raw  meal,  they  wo,uld  have  more  to  sell  on  Christmas. 
Indian  corn  makes  the  best  staple  food — more  in  winter,  and  less 
in  summer — in  form  of  meal,  with  wheat  middlings  or  bran,  scalded, 
in  the  morning,  and  in  the  kernel  at  night.  Corn  is  very  heating 
and  fattening.  I  would  not  give  over  half  in  the  summer.  Wheat, 
oats  or  buckwheat  make  the  best  summer  feed.  Give  to  Brahmas 
and  Cochins  less  corn,  in  proportion,  than  to  Hamburgs,  Polands, 
Leghorns  or  Spanish,  as  they  tend  more  to  fat.  The  morning  meal 
should  consist  of  ground  feed,  scalded  and  wet  up  thick,  with  a 
little  salt, — a  teaspoonful  to  three  quarts  of  feed.  At  noon  give 
light  feeding  of  grain,  and  at  night  all  they  will  run  after.  Do  not 
overfeed,  but  give  enough.  I  believe  I  have  never  suffered  from 
feeding  the  smaller  varieties  of  fowls  all  they  will  eat  of  whole  grain. 
The  Brahmas  and  Cochins,  if  over  two  years  old,  are  disposed  to 
put  on  fat,  especially  if  confined  in  yards  ;  and  can  be  overfed  with 
ground  feed  or  corn.  They  die  suddenly — perhaps  on  the  roost  or 
nest.  In  summer,  fowls  running  at  large  should  not  be  given  so 
much  but  that  they  will  forage  all  day,  if  the  weather  is  suitable. 
For  a  change — and  only  for  a  change — give  them  cooked  potatoes, 
but  they  make  very  poor  feed  for  winter, — too  cold.  Give  variety. 
Fowls  have  a  great  appetite  for  meat,  and  should  have  it,  in  some 
shape,  especially  when  laying.  For  want  of  it  they  often  get  the 
very  bad  habit  of  eating  their  eggs,  or  pulling  feathers  and  eating 
them.  Give  meat  in  small  and  regular  quantities.  Scatter  well  in 
a  clean  place,  so  all  can  get  some.  Whenever  it  happens  that  hens 
get  fat  and  lazy,  and,  although  well  provided  for  laying,  won't  lay, 
it  sometimes  does  them  good  to  warm  them  up  a  little  with  cayenne 
pepper,  or  egg  food.  Give  them,  in  their  warm  feed,  one  teaspoonful 
of  pepper  to  three  quarts  of  feed.  (See  recipe  for  condition  powders. 
This  recipe  is  selling,  through  the  poultry  papers,  for  fifty  cents, 
and  is  highly  recommended.)  Musty  grain  or  musty  feed  of  any 
kind  should  be  strongly  guarded  against.  It  is  often  the  case  that 
a  person  will  feed  such  light  along,  and  not  know  it.  He  will  lose 
a  fowl  every  few  days,  but  will  lay  it  to  his  ill  luck  ;  whereas,  if  he 
would  smell  of  his  hen  feed  once  in  a  while,  he  would  see  he  could 
la}  it  to  something  else.  I  do  not  believe  the  value  of 

GROUND  OYSTER  SHELLS 

is  generally  known.     I  consider  them  a  very  good  egg  food.     The 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING.  29 

shells  are  ground,  now-a-days,  expressly  for  hens.  Keep  a  quantity 
by  them  all  of  the  time.  They  are  very  fond  of  them.  I  believe 
they  not  only  furnish  the  best  of  shell  timber,  but  stir  up  the  egg 
organs,  and  tend  to  general  health.  Powdered  or  ground  bone  is 
excellent.  I  have  found  it  but  little  trouble  to  provide  each  yard 
with  two  large  stones  and  a  bushel  of  shells,  bones  and  broken 
crockery,  and  about  once  a  week  go  around  and  pound  up  what 
they  want. 

WATER. 

Fowls  want  to  drink  a  little  and  often,  and  that  which  is  clean. 
If  forced  to  it,  they  will  drink  almost  anything.  Many  fowls  are 
most  shamefully  abused  in  this  respect.  Shut  up  in  coops  without 
water,  they  run  around  in  the  blazing  sun  ;  and  when  they  get  any- 
thing to  drink,  they  gorge  themselves.  Diseases  are  often  brought 
on  in  this  way.  A  sudden  change  in  the  feed  or  general  manage- 
ment is  very  bad.  Fowls  will  stand  a  change  from  good  to  ill, 
better  than  a  change  from  poor  to  good.  It  is  death  in  many  cases 
to  give  fowls  full  run,  or  good  feed,  which  have  previously  been 
confined  on  bad,  hard  fare. 

FEATHER   EATING. 

This  is  a  very  vexing  habit  or  disease  to  get  along  with.  A  flock 
of  fowls  with  fine  plumage  will  often,  in  a  few  days,  be  stripped  of 
small  feathers.  Some  give  one  cause,  and  some  another  ;  I  have 
seen  more  or  less  of  it.  I  do  not  find  fowls  with  a  large  grass-run 
and  meat  diet,  to  pull  feathers  ;  and  those  in  the  habit  of  it,  give  it 
up  when  let  out.  I  have  observed  that  fowls  when  not  laying  will 
not  do  it  much,  but  when  they  commence  to  lay,  it  is  reasonable 
enough  that  they  experience  a  demand  for  egg-forming  material, 
and  must  have  it ;  and  again,  they  have  nothing  else  to  do.  Give 
them  wide  range,  where  they  can  scratch  and  eat  grass  ;  or  scatter 
their  grain  among  the  sawdust  and  leaves  of  their  pens,  so  they 
will  have  to  scratch  for  it.  Keep  them  busy  at  something  better. 

"  The  feather-eater  is  after  the  salt  contained  in  the  blood  at  the 
end  of  the  quill.  Birds  fed  with  salt-seasoned  food  are  never 
feather-eaters." —  Useful  Companion. 

The  following  letter  I  think  right  to  the  point,  as  it  contains  very 
practical  suggestions  on  the  subject  of  feather-eating  : 

GRAFTON,  Mass.,  Jan.  2,  1884,, 
G.  M.   T.  Johnson,  Binghamton,  N.  Y.: 

DEAR  SIR  : — I  received  the  book  you  sent  me  all  right,  and  find 
it  just  what  I  was  in  need  of.  It  is  full  of  useful  information  for 


30        PRACTICAL  POULTRY  KEEPING. 


all  persons  who  are  keeping  poultry  for  their  own  use,  or  raising  it 
for  market.  I  find  it  treats  in  full  on  all  points  of  raising,  keeping 
and  marketing  poultry.  I  consider  the  recipes  are  full  worth  the 
price  of  the  book.  I  hope  you  may  have  a  large  sale  of  this  edition, 
and  then  get  up  the  fourth  edition,  and  put  in  my  recipe  for  curing 
hens  of  eating  feathers.  It  is  this  :  Give  them  all  the  salt  pork  that 
they  will  eat.  It  will  not  hurt  them,  but  will  stop  their  eating  feathers. 
The  way  to  feed  it  to  them,  is  to  take  a  large  piece  and  put  it  in  a 
rack,  where  they  cannot  get  it  into  the  dirt,  and  let  them  eat  all  they 
will.  All  that  there  is  bad  about  it  \s— finding  the  money  to  buy  the 
pork,  at  fourteen  cents  a  pound !  I  find  it  a  sure  cure  for  feather- 
eating.  I  would  not  take  twice  the  cost  of  my  book  if  I  could  not 
get  another. 

If  this  should  be  of  any  use  to  you,  you  may  use  it. 

Yours,  truly,      '  M.   P.  S. 

EGG   EATING. 

Properly  this  is  a  habit  generally  brought  on  by  accident.  The 
hen  lays  a  soft-shelled  egg,  or  drops  one  in  the  yard,  and  it  is  acci- 
dentally broken,  and  the  hens  eat  it.  In  this  way  they  get  to  break- 
ing sound  eggs  and  eating  them.  Fowls  closely  confined  often  will 
do  it,  which  with  good  range  will  stop.  They  too  often  learn  the 
trick  by  eating  the  shells  thrown  to  them.  The  egg-shells  should 
be  thoroughly  crushed  before  given  to  the  fowls.  The  only  remedy 
is  to  take  away  the  hen,  or  she  will  teach  the  whole  flock  to  do  the 
same.  In  general,  the  shortest  and  best  way  is  to  kill  her.  If  she 
is  a  valuable  one  for  breeding,  and  we  do  not  wish  to  kill  her, 
make  her  a  nest  of  cloth  sacking,  or  the  like,  drawn  over  a  box. 
Let  the  cloth  sag,  of  course,  in  the  middle.  Cut  a  slit  in  the  bot- 
tom of  the  nest ;  sew  or  tie  a  false  egg  in  the  nest  for  a  nest-egg  ; 
under  the  box  put  straw,  or  something  soft,  for  the  egg  to  drop  on, 
and  as  soon  as  laid,  it  will  roll  down  through  the  hole,  and  is  safe  ; 
but  as  a  general  thing  where  fowls  have  full  run,  they  will  not  be 
troublesome  in  that  way. 

CARE  FOR  SITTING  HENS  AND  EGGS. 
Eggs  designed  for  hatching  should  be  collected  as  soon  as  laid, 
especially  in  cold  weather.  They  should  be  kept  on  soft  material, 
no  one  resting  on  another,  and  turned  every  day.  Some  say,  large 
end  down  ;  and  some  say,  small  end  down.  The  hen  lays  them  on 
the  side,  and  I  consider  her  good  authority.  They  can  be  trans- 
ported any  distance  and  hatched,  if  packed  carefully,  and  not  too 
long  on  the  way, — often  across  the  ocean,  or  from  Boston  to  San 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING.  31 

Francisco.  (See  letter  at  end  of  this  chapter.)  Eggs  will  keep 
from  three  to  five  weeks,  and  hatch.  Much  depends  on  the  vitality 
of  the  parent  stock.  Fresh  eggs  hatch  quicker  than  old  ones,  and 
make  stronger  chickens.  Brahmasand  Cochins  make  kind  mothers, 
but  are  generally  considered  too  heavy.  Games  make  good  mothers. 
They  are  light  on  their  eggs,  attentive  to  business,  and  take  best  of 
care  of  their  chicks.  If  \ve  wish  to  move  the  hen,  we  must  do  it 
carefully,  at  night.  Let  her  sit  a  few  days  on  common  eggs,  till  she 
gets  well  started,  when  it  will  do  to  give  her  high-priced  ones. 
Sprinkle  the  hen  and  eggs  with  sulphur  two  or  three  times  during 
incubation,  but  not  for  the  last  three  days.  Have  feed,  drink,  gravel 
and  dust-bath  handy.  I  often  set  hens  in  by-places  in  the  outer- 
yard,  where  they  can  have  full  range  when  off  the  nest.  For  the 
first  few  days  I  keep  a  coop  over  them.  After  that  I  raise  it  so 
they  can  go  out  and  in,  but  I  keep  an  eye  on  them.  I  tack  a 
piece  of  paper  over  each  nest,  telling  the  variety,  and  when  the 
brood  comes  off.  During  incubation  the  eggs  should  be  wet  often, 
especially  if  the  weather  is  dry, — perhaps  twice  a  week,  excepting 
when  the  nest  is  on  the  ground.  Sprinkle  them  thoroughly  on 
the  day  before  the  brood  comes  off,  and  we  will  not  have  many 
die  in  the  shell.  In  many  cases  the  inside  shell  gets  too  dry  and 
hard,  and  the  little  chicks  can  not  get  out.  Notice  the  hen  that 
steals  her  nest.  She  will  leave  it  and  seek  food  in  the  morning, 
when  the  grass  is  wet,  and  will  go  back  with  feathers  dripping  with 
water.  Should  the  nest  get  fouled  in  any  way,  take  the  hen  off 
carefully,  and  if  necessary,  wash  her  ;  wash  the  eggs  in  blood-warm 
water  ;  clean  out  the  nest ;  make  a  new  one  ;  put  back  eggs  and 
hen,  and  the  machine  is  in  running  order  again.  We  do  not  try  to 
help  the  chickens  out  of  the  shell.  It  generally  kills  them.  As  a 
general  thing,  it  is  best  not  to  disturb  the  hen  at  all  when  hatching. 
She  can  attend  to  her  business  better  alone  than  as  though  she  had 
a  clerk.  If  it  is  desired  to  raise  many  chickens,  and  the  weather  is 
warm  enough,  we  set  two  hens  at  the  same  time  ;  give  all  the  chicks 
to  one  hen,  and  give  the  other  a  new  lot  of  eggs.  See  that  she  is 
healthy,  free  from  vermin,  and  the  nest  fresh  and  clean.  Do  not 
give  one  hen  so  many  chickens  that  she  cannot  cover  them,  if  the 
weather  is  cold. 

HOW   FAR   CAN   EGGS   BE  TRANSPORTED   AND   HATCH  ? 

I  have  often  been  asked  this  question,  and  have  taken  some 
pains  to  know,  as  near  as  possible,  what  are  the  conditions  of  a 
hatch  after  long  transportation.  During  the  past  ten  years  I  have 
shipped  eggs  to  almost  every  State  in  the  Union,  and  different  parts 


32        PRACTICAL  POULTRY  KEEPING. 

of  Canada,  and  have  received  reports  of  hatch  ;  also  by  comparing 
with  other  breeders,  I  have  found  to  my  satisfaction,  at  the  present 
time  :  ist,  That  early  laid  eggs,  of  February  and  March,  are  not  as 
sure  as  later, — say  April,  May  and  June.  2d,  I  have  found  that 
eggs  from  our  larger  fowls,  tjie  Cochins,  Brahmas  and  Plymouth 
Rocks  are  more  uncertain  than  of  the  smaller  varieties,  Leghorns, 
Games,  and  others.  Especially  are  they  uncertain  if  the  cock  be  a 
heavy,  logy  fellow  ;  and  I  think  these  facts,  if  they  are  facts,  are  due 
to  the  inaction  of  the  cock.  I  have  observed  that  early  in  the  spring, 
before  fowls  run  out  much,  cocks  are  quite  stupid,  but  later,  as  soon 
as  the  doors  are  open,  and  the  fowls  have  a  run  out  in  the  sunshine, 
their  lordships  wake  up  to  life. 

There  is  but  little  trouble  with  our  lighter  varieties,  if  they  are 
ordinarily  well  mated  ;  and  with  our  large  fowls,  if  we  would  send 
eggs  to  a  distance,  we  should  put  only  six  or  seven  females  with  a 
young  cock,  and  then  give  them  out-door  run  together.  If  not  de- 
siring a  special  mating.  I  would  change  the  cock  every  few  days. 
If  I  am  mistaken  in  my  observations,  I  would  be  pleased  to  be  set 
right.  The  following  extract  from  a  letter  to  a  poultry  paper,  on 
the  subject,  will  show  that  distance  and  eighteen  days'  time  do  not 
make  much  difference,  where  eggs  of  the  small  varieties  are  all 
right  at  home,  and  well  packed  : 

"On  the  26th  of  April,  1881,  I  received  of  Mr.  JOHNSON,  of  Bing- 
hamton,  N.  Y.,  three  settings  (thirty-nine)  Brown  Leghorn  eggs. 
The  eggs  were  shipped  at  Binghamton,  on  the  8th  of  April.  I  re- 
ceived them  on  the  26th  day  of  the  same  month,  after  a  voyage  of 
eighteen  days,  and  a  distance  of  about  4,000  miles — including  land 
and  water.  On  the  iSth  of  May,  1881,  my  eggs  hatched.  One  hen 
brought  out  eleven  chickens  from  thirteen  eggs.  Out  of  thirty-nine 
eggs  I  raised  twenty-three  chickens, — I  believe  as  fine  birds  as  ever 
were  hatched.  Out  of  the  twenty-three,  I  had  ten  pullets.  On  the 
2Oth  of  October  they  began  laying,  and  have  continued  ever  since, 
each  one  of  them,  at  the  rate  of  five  eggs  a  week.  This  last  remark 
will,  I  think,  suggest  to  you  their  constitution  and  health.  I  feel 
quite  certain  that  eggs  obtained  from  No.  i  stock,  thoroughly 
packed,  with  non-conducting  material,  and  otherwise  properly  at- 
tended to,  could  safely  be  sent  to  New  Zealand,  either  from  San 
Francisco  or  New  York,  by  mail  steamer. 

Cowichan,  B.  C.  WM.  McKiNNON." 

These  eggs  went  by  express  to  San  Francisco,  Cal.,  a  distance  of 
3,000  miles  ;  thence  by  express  to  Victoria,  Vancouver's  Island — 
800  miles  ;  thence  forty  miles  to  Cowichan,  British  Columbia. 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING.  33 


CARE   FOR   CHICKENS. 

What  is  the  cause  of  so  great  mortality  among  young  chickens 
and  turkeys?  It  is  the  great  complaint  that  so  great  percent  of 
them  die  before  grown.  The  difference  in  the  old  hen's  way  and 
our  way  of  handling  the  young  is  very  noticeable.  If  a  careful 
mother,  she  will  remain  on  her  nest  till  the  grass  is  dry,  if  it  is  until 
twelve  o'clock  ;  especially  is  this  the  case  with  the  turkey.  Then 
the  troop  will  start  off.  She  will  find — now  a  bug,  now  a  piece  of 
grain  or  seed,  next  a  worm  ;  so  that  in  the  brood  there  will  be  long 
intervals  between  bits  of  food  for  each  chick.  The  crop  then  con- 
tains a  great  variety,  and  only  a  small  amount.  We  will  stir  the 
old  hen  up  to  let  the  chickens  out  for  breakfast  early,  while  it  is  yet 
chilly,  and  the  grass  is  wet.  We  then  give  them  all  they  will  eat  of 
raw  corn  meal  and  water,  which  must  swell,  and  often  gets  sour 
before  it  passes  from  the  crop.  All  this  is  very  wrong.  The  great 
loss  of  young  turkeys  says  so.  As  a  rule,  it  is  best  to  try  to  deal 
with  the  chicks  as  the  old  hen  or  turkey  does.  Again  :  Our  yards, 
in  many  cases,  are  infected  with  the  germs  of  gapes  and  cholera, 
having  been  used  a  number  of  years  for  the  rearing  of  chickens. 
(See  Chapter  on  Gapes  and  Cholera.) 

As  a  general  rule,  1  would  say  :  Do  not  disturb  the  chickens  for 
the  first  twenty-four  houis,  if  the  hen  will  stay  on  the  nest.  They 
will  not  take  any  hurt  if  they  do  not  eat  for  the  first  forty-eight. 
The  most  they  need  is  brooding.  At  this  period  they  get  more 
strength  from  it  than  from  food.  As  a  prevention  of  vermin,  rub  a 
little  fresh  grease  of  any  kind — size  of  a  pea — on  the  top  of  the 
chickens'  heads  or  backs.  Do  not  put  sulphur  on  the  hen  or  chicks. 
It  will  get  into  their  eyes  and  poison  them.  For  the  first  week, 
stale  -bread  soaked  in  milk  or  water,  or  hard-boiled  eggs,  chopped 


34  PRACTICAL  POULTRY    KEEPING. 

fine,  is  best.  Feed  onions,  chopped  fine,  often,  and  let  there  be 
handy  some  ground  oyster  shells  or  pieces  of  crockery  pounded  fine. 
Indian  meal,  when  uncooked,  is  bad  for  young  chickens.  It  swells 
and  hardens  in  their  crops.  Indian  pudding,  seasoned  with  black 
pepper,  is  good  for  first  few  w,eeks.  Do  not  rout  the  little  chickens 
out  in  the  morning  before  they  wish  to  come,  or  let  them  out  in  the 
wet,  but  feed  little  and  "often,  especially  before  they  "retire."  Do 
not  oblige  the  little  chicks  to  stand  out  in  the  cold  waiting  for  some- 
thing to  eat.  As  soon  as  they  will  eat  it,  I  consider  cracked  corner 
wheat  better  for  chickens  than  meal.  They  do  not  waste  as  much, 
it  does  not  get  sour,  and  we  can  have  it  near  by  them,  so  that  we 
are  not  obliged  to  feed  so  often.  One  common  trouble  is,  that  people 
will  feed  little  chickens  in  the  morning,  and  not  again  till  ten  o'clock. 
Then  the  little  chick  eats  too  much, — starved  one  hour,  and  stuffed 
the  next.  By  this  means  the  chickens  become  stunted  or  otherwise 
diseased.  Keep  fresh  water  near,  in  dishes  so  shallow  that  they 
will  not  drown  Do  not  set  the  coop  on  the  cold  and  damp  ground. 
If  early  in  the  season,  put  the  coop  in  a  barn  or  shed  with  a  floor  to  it. 
The  little  chicks  need  to  be  kept  warm  and  dry.  When  they  stand 
on  the  cold  ground  all  night,  they  are  likely  to  be  sick  the  next  day, 
and  soon  the  whole  brood  will  be  dragging  their  wings  on  the  ground 
and  peeping  piteously,  for  a  few  days,  when  they  will  "shuffle  off 
this  mortal  coil  !"  Do  not  let  them  out-doors  in  the  rain.  It  is  a 
mistake  to  put  straw  in  the  coop.  The  little  chicks  get  their  feet 
entangled,  and  the  hen  treads  on  them.  Fine  coal  ashes  are  good 
in  a  coop.  Later  in  the  season,  after  the  ground  gets  dry  and  warm, 
put  the  coop  on  soft  ground,  if  it  is  convenient,  and  sprinkle  pow- 
dered sulphur  over  the  ground.  Change  the  position  often 

It  is  not  best  to  take  the  hen  away  from  the  chicks  too  early.  As 
long  as  they  will  brood,  let  them.  Warmth,  good  brooding  and 
protection  from  the  weather,  are  better  for  chicks  than  good  food — 
and  that  is  very  essential.  Many  a  promising  lot  is  ruined  by  get- 
ting chilled  at  night.  As  soon  as  the  hen  is  taken  away,  the  chicks 
must  be  protected  from  the  cold.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  put  the  hen 
and  chickens  in  the  house  where  you  wish  them  to  stay  after  they 
are  weaned.  They  will  run  out  from  there,  and  when  the  hen  leaves 
them  they  will  huddle  together,  and  so  keep  warm.  Do  not  fur- 
nish them  roosts.  Oblige  them  to  sit  on  the  floor  till  nearly  grown. 
Crooked  breast-bones  are  often  caused  by  roosting  too  young. 

A  great  mistake,  often  made,  is  the  trying  to  raise  too  many 
chickens  on  the  same  range  of  ground.  Many  or  few,  they  will 
wander  about  so  far  away  from  the  coop,  and  no  farther..  The 


PRACTICAL  POULTRY  KEEPING.        35 

ground  over  which  they  run  will  furnish,  spontaneously,  about  so 
much  in  the  form  of  bugs  and  worms,  which  are  so  conducive  to  the 
health  of  the  chicks.  If  this  is  divided  among  a  large  flock,  each 
will  get  only  a  small  portion  ;  the  larger  ones  will  tread  on  the 
smaller,  and  the  chicks  will  grow  slowly,  and  be  inferior. 

It  is  sometimes  well  to  let  the  hen  have  full  range,  and  some- 
times not  well.  She  will  pick  up  many  little  luxuries  for  her 
chicks,  but  if  she  is  a  roamy,  uneasy  body,  she  will  worry  them 
to  death  by  dragging  them  around.  As  soon  as  possible,  cull  out 
all  inferior  and  defective  ones,  thus  giving  their  room  to  others. 
Select  such  fowls  as  are  wanted  for  keeping  over,  but  a  person 
must  be  well  experienced  to  be  able  to  judge  before  nearly  grown. 
Many  an  awkward,  inferior-looking  chick  develops  into  a  fine  bird 
of  his  kind  :  especially  is  this  the  case  with  Brahmas  and  Cochins. 
Allow  two  or  three  extra  in  case  of  accident  or  death.  As  soon  as 
the  young  cockerels  begin  to  worry  the  hens  and  pullets,  it  is  best 
to  put  them  in  a  yard  by  themselves.  For  the  larger  varieties — 
Brahmas  and  Cochins — it  is  best  to  set  early, — say  in  March,  as  it 
takes  so  much  longer  for  the  chicks  to  mature.  March  and  April 
chicks  do  better  than  later  ones.  They  are  large  enough,  when  the 
ground  opens,  to  make  war  on  bugs  and  worms,  which  are  then  so 
plenty,  and  so  conducive  to  the  growth  of  the  chicks.  They  get 
well  feathered  out  by  the  time  nights  are  cold  in  the  fall.  They  are 
salable  in  market  in  July,  when  prices  are  high.  May  and  June 
chickens  do  well,  but  August  and  September  chickens  are,  gener- 
ally speaking,  too  late.  Perhaps  this  chapter  will  explain  why  it 
is  not  profitable  to  raise  fowls  in  large  numbers  on  one  place. 
TO  MAKE  HENS  LAY. 

Many  seem  to  think  there  should  be  something  out  of  the  ordi- 
nary line  of  management,  when  we  wish  to  mak-e  hens  lay,  whereas 
they  need  nothing  that  has  not  been  given  under  other  heads. 
They  should  be  perfectly  healthy,  and  well  provided  with  good, 
rich  food,  and  clean  drink, — say  a  warm  breakfast  and  dinner  of 
meal  and  wheat  middlings  or  buckwheat  middlings.  This  should 
be  scalded.  Egg  food  or  cayenne  pepper, — a  teaspoon  even  full  to 
a  quart  of  feed,  well  stirred  in,  will  help.  A  mixture  of  whole 
grain,  corn,  oats,  buckwheat,  &c.,  should  be  given  them  at  night. 
With  these  the  fowls  should  have  fresh  meat  in  moderate  quantities, 
and  green  food, — if  not  grass,  then  cabbage,  potatoes,  etc.,  chopped; 
and  gravel,  sand,  oyster  shells  and  broken  crockery.  If  warmly 
housed,  clean  and  healthy  young  fowls  ought  to  lay  with  this  treat- 
ment. 


36  PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING. 


TO   KEEP   HENS   FROM    LAYING. 

This  sounds  like  a  very  singular  subject.  It  is,  however,  some- 
times necessary  to  make  a  little  extra  work  to  keep  fowls  in  check 
during  molting,  and  at  a  time  unseasonable  for  breeding,  wishing  to 
reserve  their  strength  to  a  more  opportune  season. 

Give  no  soft,  warm  feed  ;  whole  grain  entirely.  Provide  them  no 
good  places  for  nests  ;  break  them  up  if  they  make  any.  Hens  will 
not  lay  much  under  these  circumstances.  When  the  right  time 
comes,  give  them  nests  ;  make  things  look  tidy  and  inviting ;  give 
them  some  luxuries,  and  they  will  soon  be  down  to  business. 

TO    STOP   HENS   SITTING. 

Confine  them  in  an  elevated  coop,  with  slat  bottom,  where  they 
will  be  obliged  to  roost,  and  cannot  brood.  Feed  very  sparingly  of 
meal,  strong  with  egg  food  or  cayenne  pepper.  Light  feeding  till 
she  stops  clucking  ;  or,  if  not  particular  as  to  what  cock  she  runs 
with,  a  good  plan  is  to  put  a  vigorous  cockerel  in  a  yard  alone, 
where  there  is  no  place  for  a  hen  to  sit,  and  when  we  wish  to  break 
up  a  sitting  hen,  put  her  in  with  him.  This  yard  might  be  called 
the  Reformatory. 

TO   INDUCE  HENS  TO   SIT. 

It  is  a  very  uncommon  state  of  things  on  the  farm,  when  the  hens 
forget  their  time  to  sit.  Some  of  the  smaller  breeds,  however,  seem 
to  have  lost  their  calendar,  and  require  special  inducements  to  stop 
laying  and  commence  sitting.  By  furnishing  good  nests,  where  they 
are  undisturbed,  and  leaving  their  eggs  in  their  nests,  they  will  soon 
take  to  them.  They  must  not  be  disturbed  much,  or  they  will  leave 
them.  I  have  in  this  way  obtained  sitters  from  Leghorns,  and  even 
Hamburghs,  which  have  the  reputation  of  never  wanting  to  sit. 

TO   MARK    FOWLS. 

It  is  often  very  desirable  to  mark  young  chickens  and  turkeys  of 
certain  matings,  and  to  be  able  to  know  one's  own  fowls  in  the  fall. 
For  that,  a  mark  on  the  foot  is  about  the  best.  The  most  approved 
plan  is  to  punch  a  small  hole  in  the  web  of  the  foot,  between  the 
toes,  as  soon  as  taken  from  the  nest.  One  lot  can  have  the  mark 
between  the  first  and  second  toe  of  right  foot ;  another  lot,  between 
certain  other  toes.  Keep  the  account  in  a  book.  Another  way  is, 
to  cut  the  nail  off  a  certain  toe.  This  is  not  very  painful,  and  is  an 
unmovable  mark. 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING.  37 

MATING    FOWLS   FOR   BREEDING. 

The  quality  of  our  next  year's  stock  depends  largely  on  the  judg- 
ment of  the  persons  who  select  the  cocks  and  hens  for  their  re- 
spective yards.  There  should  be  a  positive  idea  of  what  is  wanted, 
and  with  an  understanding  of  what  marks  or  characteristics  a  fowl 
will  be  likely  to  transmit  to  its  chicks,  we  can  make  our  selections 

If  we  are  breeding  for  choice  stock,  and  wish  to  get  standard 
fowls,  we  should  select,  as  near  as  possible,  standard  birds  to  begin 
with.  It  is  hard  breeding  up.  The  tendency  is  down.  A  poor 
comb,  bad  plumage,  discolored  legs,  and  other  bad  marks  of  a  cock 
or  hen,  will  appear  on  the  chicks.  Perhaps  a  few  will  be  well 
marked,  but  in  the  chicks  of  the  next  year  the  defects  will  likely 
appear.  It  is  better  to  begin  with  a  pair  of  birds  whose  parent  stock 
for  generations  back  are  right,  than  to  use  a  yard  which  are  "off," 
and  try  to  bring  them  up. 

As  to  how  many  hens  to  let  run  with  one  cock,  will  depend  on 
the  vitality  of  the  cock  ;  and  we  must  judge  from  actual  observation 
in  each  individual  case.  Some  will  do  better  with  fifteen  hens  than 
others  will  with  five ;  but,  as  a  general  thing,  six  or  eight  hens  are 
enough.  The  vitality  of  the  chicks  often  depends  on  the  vitality  of 
the  cock.  If  from  a  yard  where  there  is  an  active  cock  and  six  or 
eight  healthy  hens,  the  chicks  will  be  strong  and  vigorous  ;  but 
from  a  yard  of  fifteen  hens  with  one  cock,  many  of  the  eggs  will  be 
worthless,  and  those  that  do  hatch  will  be  puny  and  die  off,  one 
after  another,  before  they  are  grown. 

One  peculiarity  of  the  Asiatic  breeds  is,  that  cocks,  after  the 
first  year,  sometimes  get  heavy  and  logy — probably  by  an  excess  of 
fat — and  are  not  sure  breeders  longer  than  one  year.  Especially  is 
this  the  case  with  the  Partridge  Cochins  and  Langshans.  There  has 
been  a  good  deal  of  complaint  of  these  varieties,  in  that  one  respect. 
I  do  not  consider  a  cock  safe  after  the  first  season.  He  may  be  all 
right,  but  the  eggs  must  be  given  a  trial  before  we  can  tell. 

Some  breeders  claim  that  the  cock,  more  than  the  hen,  gives 
color  and  markings  to  the  chicks,  and  the  hen  gives  more  size, 
form  and  useful  qualities.  The  "in-and-in"  system  of  breeding  is 
strongly  condemned.  That  is,  mating  a  cock  or  hen  with  its  own 
chicks  ;  or  mating  fowls  of  one  flock,  old  and  young,  promiscuously 
year  after  year.  It  will  do  for  a  few  years,  and  is  resorted  to,  at 
certain  times,  to  bring  out  certain  qualities  of  a  particular  bird,  but 
as  a  general  thing,  it  is  denounced.  The  chicks  are  weaker,  and 
more  deformed.  For  health,  we  can  bring  in  new  blood  occasion- 
ally, but  it  must  be  done  carefully.  We  must  see  that  the  new 


PRACTICAL  POULTRY    KEEPING.  39 

blood  is  all  right,  and  from  a  high  family,  before  introducing  it. 
The  question  is  being  discussed,  pro  and  con,  by  good  breeders  on 
each  side,  whether  hens  that  have  been  with  cocks  of  other  breeds, 
will  ever  breed  true  after.  Some  claim  that  her  blood  is  tainted, 
and  that  she  will  be  liable  to  throw  feathers  and  marks  of  the  for- 
eign stock  at  any  time.  Others,  and  the  majority,  say  it  will  make 
no  difference  after  she  has  commenced  a  new  litter  of  eggs.  I  have 
never  observed  any  hurt  in  hens  mixing  up  in  the  fall. 

We  are  often  asked,  "  How  can  I  get  a  greater  percentage  of 
pullets  in  my  hatchings?"  It  is  noted  among  poultry  breeders, 
that  a  large  percentage  of  early  hatched  chickens  are  males,  and 
late  hatched  chickens  are  females.  It  is  a  theory  from  our  grand- 
mothers down,  that  long  eggs  produce  cockerels,  and  short  eggs 
produce  pullets.  It  may  be  well  to  try  it.  Some  say,  Hold  the  egg 
up  to  the  light,  and  if  the  air-cell  in  the  large  end  is  in  the  point  of 
the  shell,  it  will  hatch  a  cockerel,  but  if  on  one  side,  a  pullet ;  but 
it  is  allowed  by  breeders  generally  that  there  is  no  sure  way  to  tell. 

MATING   FOWLS   FOR   EGGS. 

It  is  well  understood  that  certain  breeds  of  fowls  are  better 
adapted  for  eggs,  and  others  for  flesh.  It  is  also  well  understood 
that  cross-breeding  often  brings  out  the  good  qualities  of  both,  to  a 
greater  or  less  extent ;  makes  a  stronger  and  more  thrifty  fowl. 
Generally  speaking,  the  small  breeds  of  fowls  are  better  for  eggs 
than  the  larger  ones.  The  Spanish  and  the  Leghorns  are  excellent 
layers  ;  so  are  the  Hamburghs,  but  they  are  rather  tender.  A  cross 
between  any  of  them  will  make  good  layers,  and  perhaps  more 
hardy  than  either  parent.  Hamburgh  is  good  to  cross  with  Dom- 
inique, Leghorn  or  Spanish  fowls.  A  Dominique  cock  with  Leg- 
horn or  Spanish  fowls  is  excellent. 

(See  Chapter  on  Crossing,  in  the  latter  part  of  this  book.) 

MATING   FOWLS   FOR   FLESH. 

I  think  a  cross  between  either  of  the  Brahma  varieties  and  an}' 
of  the  Cochins  is  good  ;  or  a  Plymouth  Rock  cock  with  either 
Brahma  or  Cochin.  The  chicks  are  very  thrifty,  hardy,  and  grow 
to  be  of  good  size.  In  mating  for  flesh,  it  is  not  best  to  use  a  black 
or  a  blue  legged  fowl.  As  a  general  rule,  I  believe  the  yellow  leg 
indicates  hardiness  ;  besides,  the  flesh  of  yellow-legged  fowls  ap- 
pears best  in  market,  and  brings  the  best  prices. 

(These  remarks  do  not  apply  to  Turkeys.  Any  color  departing 
from  the  deep  bronze  indicates  weakness.) 


40  PRACTICAL  POULTRY    KEEPING. 

A  cross  between  the  Leghorn  and  Light  Brahma  increases  the 
size  of  the  former,  and  laying  qualities  of  the  latter. 

TURKEYS. 

About  the  tenderest  bird.,when  young  is  a  turkey.  A  little  dew 
or  a  few  drops  of  rain  applied  externally,  or  a  little  uncooked  food 
internally,  will  often  kill  it.  When  old,  it  will  roost  on  the  roof  of 
a  barn  or  in  an  old  apple  tree,  in  January,  and  glory  in  it.  It  re- 
quires a  person  of  peculiar  tact  to  raise  turkeys  :  one  who  is  willing 
to  cook  for  them,  and  soak  their  feed,  and  nurse  them.  I  think  it 
is  best  to  set  the  eggs  under  hens,  as  they  are  less  inclined  to  wander. 
I  would  not  disturb  the  hen  till  she  is  ready  to  come  off,  or  allow 
any  handling  of  the  young  turkeys.  They  require  great  care  till 
they  have  put  off  their  downy  covering. 

After  twenty-four  or  thirty-six  hours,  it  is  best  to  remove  them  to 
a  dry,  warm  place,  and  give  them  their  first  meal, — which  should 
consist  of  bread  crumbs  soaked  in  milk.  This,  and  hard-boiled 
eggs  chopped  fine,  should  make  up  their  chief  food  for  the  first  two 
weeks.  Onions  chopped  fine  will  be  good  for  them,  and  they 
relish  them.  I  have  succeeded  best  by  feeding  bread  made  of 
Indian  meal  and  wheat  middlings  soaked  in  milk,  until  the  turkey 
is  six  or  eight  weeks  old.  It  does  not  harden  or  swell  in  their 
crops,  and  young  turkeys  are  very  fond  of  it.  Uncooked  meal  is 
almost  poisonous  to  them.  It  hardens  and  sours  in  their  crops. 
Sour  milk,  especially  the  soft  curd,  is  good  for  fowls  of  all  ages. 
Let  them  have  a  supply  of  finely-pounded  crockery  or  oyster  shells 
always  near  them.  Keep  them  from  the  damp.  It  is  sure  death  ! 
Put  the  coop  on  a  dry,  barren  spot  of  ground  or  floor,  in  a  board 
pen  about  two  feet  high.  Do  not  allow  the  little  turkeys  outside 
of  this,  except  in  bright,  clear  weather,  after  the  dew  is  off.  When 
the  turkey  is  six  or  eight  weeks  old,  it  is  comparatively  safe,  but 
requires  care  till  it  "puts  out  the  red."  It  is  a  very  unwise  plan 
to  allow  turkeys  or  any  other  fowls  to  roost  out-of-doors  in  winter. 
To  withstand  the  cold,  they  require  more  food  for  fuel.  They  are 
reduced  in  flesh,  and  will  be  later  in  the  spring  about  laying.  Be- 
sides, they  sometimes  make  good  dinners  for  parties  with  whom 
you  have  made  no  contract  to  furnish  a  fat  turkey,  and  who  never 
call  to  say,  "Thank  you  !" 

GEESE. 

A  rough  shed  with  no  floor,  so  that  the  geese  can  sit  on  the  bare 
ground,  perhaps  littered  with  chaff  or  the  like,  is  a  suitable  place 
ior  geese,  which  should  be  kept  in  small  flocks,  allowing  a  gander 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING.  4H 

to  only  three  geese.  Sometimes  three  are  too  many  to  insure  fer- 
tility of  eggs.  Breeding  geese  are  better  after  three  or  four  years 
old.  The  gander  should  be  older.  Eggs  from  young  geese  do  not 
hatch  well.  If  well  fed  during  the  winter,  geese  will  lay  early  in. 
March  from  a  half-dozen  to  a  dozen  eggs,— generally  two  or  three 
litters  in  a  season.  They  commonly  lay  at  night,  or  if  not  watched 
will  drop  their  eggs  in  the  pasture  or  water, — three  or  four  eggs  a 
week.  A  goose  sits  thirty-one  days.  She  should  have  a  separate 
apartment  where  she  will  not  be  disturbed,  as  she  is  a  very  cross 
and  unpleasant  bird  to  handle  if  disturbed,  and  is  liable  to  destroy 
her  tender  young. 

For  the  first  two  or  three  weeks  after  the  goslings  are  hatched, 
they  should  be  kept  away  from  the  water  and  the  hot  rays  of  the  sun. 
Treat  them  as  young  turkeys,  as  they  are  very  tender  when  young. 
They  relish  fresh,  green  grass  or  cabbage  leaves  chopped  fine. 
They  should  not  go  in  the  water  for  swimming  for  the  first  ten  days, 
and  after  that  only  for  a  short  time,  and  when  the  water  is  warm. 
After  the  first  month  it  will  do  to  let  them  run  in  the  pasture  with 
the  old  birds.  Geese  must  have  a  good  grass  range.  They  will 
not  thrive  in  confinement.  An  old,  worn-out  pasture,  with  a  stream 
running  through  it,  or  a  wet,  soggy  meadow,  is  a  paradise  for  geese, 
and  they  will  want  but  little  grain.  They  like  water  for  swimming, 
but  will  get  along  with  but  little,  if  not  convenient.  When  they 
are  to  be  fattened  for  market,  they  should  be  comparatively  con- 
fined for  about  three  weeks,  and  fed  high  on  cooked  corn  mea^ 
and  vegetables  once  in  three  days.  Meat  scraps  chopped  fine,  and 
potatoes  chopped  fine,  make  a  good  change.  Milk  is  excellent. 
When  at  their  best,  kill  them,  as  they  soon  fall  away.  In  winter, 
give  the  goose  plenty  of  cabbage,  chopped  potatoes,  apples  or  most 
any  vegetables.  They  will  do  much  better  than  if  confined  to  grain, 
away  from  grass  or  any  herbs. 

DUCKS. 

They  will  do  well  if  treated  the  same  as  hens.  It  is  not  neces- 
sary that  they  should  have  water  for  swimming,  although  it  helps 
them  keep  clean,  and  they  enjoy  it;  but  are  easily  reared  in  the 
back  yard  the  same  as  chickens,  and  require  about  the  same  treat- 
ment when  young.  For  breeding,  a  drake  should  not  be  allowed 
more  than  three  or  four  ducks.  They  like  to  retire  at  night  under 
an  old  shed  or  barn,  but  can  be  taught  to  come  into  a  house  with 
hens,  if  desired.  They  lay  very  early  in  the  morning,  generally, 
and  wherever  they  stay  at  night.  The)'  are  very  careless  about  that. 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING.  43 

If  they  are  let  out  before  laying,  they  will  drop  their  eggs  wherever 
they  happen  to  be — on  land  or  in  the  water.  For  that  reason,  it  is 
not  best  to  let  them  out  early.  It  will  sometimes  be  necessary  to 
keep  them  in  till  eleven  or  twelve  o'clock.  They  will  not  lay  it  up 
against  us,  as  they  have  a  very  forgiving  disposition,  and  will  come 
into  their  apartments  at  night,  if  fed  there.  It  is  bad  to  have  them 
get  irregular  habits,  and  for  the  owner  not  to  know  where  they 
spend  their  nights.  They  are  then  a  very  easy  prey  to  the  evil  one, 
in  the  shape  of  the  fox,  skunk,  weasle,  owl  or  snake.  We  must 
give  them  a  place  to  hide  when  they  lay.  They  are  quite  prolific, 
with  good  care,  and  many  consider  them  more  profitable  than  hens. 
They  will  stand  more  banging  round  than  hens,  and  yet  be  very 
cheerful  over  it.  For  this  reason,  I  think,  many  people  like  them. 
It  is  a  better  way  to  set  the  eggs  under  a  hen.  She  will  not  lead 
them  to  the  water,  and  they  should  not  go  there  till  six  weeks  old. 
They  are  apt  to  drown,  are  killed  by  snakes,  or  otherwise  injured. 
After  six  weeks  it  will  not  hurt  them,  part  of  the  time.  It  will  do 
to  pick  them  when  their  feathers  are  ripe,  the  same  as  geese  ;  but 
we  cannot  expect  many  eggs  during  that  time.  It  is  not  safe  to  let 
grown  ducks  run  with  little  chickens,  unless  they  have  a  good  sup- 
ply of  meat,  or  are  muzzled.  They  don't  think  much  of  the  rights 
of  others,  and  will  eat  chickens  the  same  as  they  would  frogs. 
A  duck  has  no  conscience. 

TO   PICK   GEESE  AND   DUCKS. 

In  a  close  room,  to  prevent  the  feathers  from  flying.  Draw  a 
stocking  over  the  head  and  neck,  to  prevent  biting.  Hold  their 
wings  tightly,  to  prevent  their  striking,  as  they  give  severe  blows. 
Do  not  pick  till  the  feathers  are  ripe.  They  will  be  clear  and  free 
from  blood.  While  growing,  the  quill  is  filled  with  bloody  sub- 
stances, and  is  unfit  for  use,  as  there  will  be  so  much  dead  matter 
in  the  quill.  Take  all  the  small  feathers.  Do  not  pluck  the  large 
feathers  that  support  the  wings.  Let  them  have  plenty  to  eat,  to 
keep  up  the  supply,  and  do  not  pluck  so  late  in  the  fall  as  to  en- 
danger the  health  and  thrift  of  the  fowls.  Let  them  have  a  dry, 
warm  place,  after  each  picking,  to  keep  them  from  the  wet  and  cold. 


PART   III. 
DISEASES. 

Diseases  are  not  natural,  in  the  main,  to  the  well-kept  fowl. 
They  are  some  of  the  accompaniments  of  domestication.  In  the 
first  place,  the  fowl,  by  being  confined  or  restrained  at  all,  suffers 
to  just  the  extent  that  its  freedom  is  good  for  it.  Again,  while  at 
liberty  they  are  scattered  over  a  large  tract  ;  in  confinement  they  are 
brought  together,  and  kept  together,  more  or  less.  Here  they  suffer 
again.  A  fowl  in  confinement  is  kept  on  the  same  grounds  through- 
out the  year,  and  for  years  in  succession,  breathing  the  poisonous 
gases  arising  from  the  foul  grounds  and  surroundings,  which  after 
a  while  become  infected.  These  observations  are  in  regard  to  all 
yards,  no  matter  how  well  kept  :  but  these  ills  can  be  alleviated 
much  by  attention  to  the  necessities  of  the  fowls, — such  as  cleanli- 
ness, in  all  its  phases,  including  change  of  grounds.  Here  is  the 
advantage  of  small  houses  for  summer  use,  which  can  be  moved  to 
fresh  grounds. 

These  removals,  from  the  wild,  free-and-easy  nature  of  the  bird 
tell  on  its  constitution,  and  it  is  more  subject  to  disease,  even  in 
the  best-kept  yards.  But  in  the  majority  of  cases,  fowls  do  not 
have  these  conveniences.  Their  constitutional  rights  are  violated 
in  the  grossest  manner.  Crowded  together,  their  apartments  are 
cleaned  once  a  year,  at  corn-planting ;  kept  from  the  fresh  grass, 
which  in  freedom  it  has  every  hour  in  the  day  ;  kept  from  the  fresh 
water  and  fresh  soil  ;  fed  at  intervals  of  from  six  to  twelve  hours, 
when  it  is  allowed  to  gorge  itself  with  slops  and  swill  one  day,  and 
dry  corn  the  next ;  kept  in  the  hot  sun  in  summer,  and  in  draughts 
of  air  in  winter,  can  we  wonder  that  our  domestic  poultry  are 
weaker?  But  the  advantages  of  the  wild  over  the  domestic  fowl 
are,  in  well-kept  yards,  more  than  over-balanced  by  the  extra  care 
and  attention  given  them. 

But  for  the  greed,  the  carelessness,  the  laziness  and  poor  judg- 
ment of  men,  this  chapter  on  diseases  would  be  short.  It  is  by  ill 
treatment  in  the  process  of  domestication  that  most  of  them  come. 
It  is  claimed  that  the  wild  turkey,  goose,  duck,  quail,  snipe,  prairie 
hen,  woodcock  or  partridge  has  not  been  captured  with  these  disor- 
ders. It  follows  that  the  wrong  is  with  the  handling  of  the  fowls  ; 
hence  I  class  nearly  all  the  ills  the  domestic  fowl  is  subject  to,  as 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING.  45 

OF  ACCIDENT   AND   MISMANAGEMENT. 

Success  in  raising  poultry  largely  depends  on  a  correct  under- 
standing of  the  diseases,  and  in  some  way  avoiding  them.  A  sick 
hen  is  a  very  unpromising  subject,  and  the  hen  doctor  rarely  gets 
pay  for  his  pills  and  physic.  As  a  general  thing,  the  best  remedy  is 
to  kill  it.  "  But,"  says  the  reader,  "  what  is  the  use  of  this  chapter?" 
Just  this:  A  disease  foreseen  and  warded  off  is  better  than  as 
though  handled  and  cured.  The  adage,  "  An  ounce  of  prevention 
is  better  than  a  pound  of  cure,"  is  especially  applicable  in  the  hen- 
nery, for  the  reason  that  most  of  the  ills  are  avoidable,  with  a  little 
attention.  I  give  it  as  a  general  rule,  that  a  fowl  well  cared  for  will 
not  be  sick  ;  and  when  it  is,  it  is  better  to  look  for  the  cause,  and 
the  cure  will  suggest  itself.  There  are  little  indispositions  which 
fowls  sometimes  exhibit,  which  are  precursors  of  serious  trouble 
in  the  hen-yard,  which,  if  taken  in  time,  can  be  righted  with  little 
trouble  ;  but  if  allowed  to  run  till  indisposition  becomes  a  settled 
disease,  it  is  a  poor  case,  and  does  not  pay — unless  it  is  a  valuable 
one  for  breeding  or  exhibition— to  try  to  doctor  it  much;  besides 
the  risk  of  spreading  a  bad  disorder. 

In  many  of  the  following  cases,  the  remedy  will  suggest  itself, 
and  I  do  not  mention  it : 

First — Hens  called  non-sitters,  of  which  are  the  Spanish,  Leg- 
horn, Andilusian  and  Hamburgh,  do  not  need  any  crowding  to 
make  them  lay.  Sometimes  they  need  to  be  held  back,  for  health. 
Many  times  they  are  forced  with  warm  feed  and  pepper,  though 
molting,  and  fail  under  the  process — lay  themselves  to  death. 

Second — Hens  called  sitters,  or  those  predisposed  to  fat — of 
which  are  the  Brahmas,  Cochins  and  Langshans — are  overfed  with 
meal  and  corn,  and  not  enough  of  wheat,  oats,  buckwheat,  grass 
and  the  like.  They  are  taken  with  apoplexy  or  leg-weakness,  or 
can  not  drop  the  egg,  and  die  on  the  nest  ;  or  by  confinement  and 
good  feed,  they  put  on  an  excess  of  fat,  and  lead  a  life  of  idleness. 
As  a  general  rule,  the  heavy  fowls  over  two  years  old  are  unprofitable. 

Third — By  harsh  handling,  falling  or  other  accident,  or  not  having 
access  to  shell-forming  material,  an  egg  is  broken  before  laid,  and 
death  is  the  result.  If  the  fowl  is  in  good  condition  at  such  a  time, 
a  teaspoonful  of  castor  oil,  by  injection,  will  work  the  wreck  away. 

Fourth — A  few  small  hens  are  put  with  a  heavy,  vigorous  cock, 
and  are  killed. 

Fifth — Some  are  quarrelsome,  and  worry  others  to  death. 

Sixth — They  do  not  have  a  good,  clean  dust-bath,  and  green  food, 


46  PRACTICAL   POULTRY   KEEPING. 

and  are  troubled  with  vermin,  and  lose  their  feathers — here  is  the 
cause  of  much  disappointment  in  poultry  keeping. 

Seventh — They  do  not  have  animal  food  and  grass  run,  and  they 
eat  their  own  eggs  and  feathers. 

Eighth — They  go  without  water,  perhaps,  one  day,  and  have  plenty 
the  next ;  or  they  have  foul  water  to  drink  all  of  the  time. 

Ninth — They  eat  filthy  and  poisonous  matter,  or  do  not  have  a 
change  of  diet. 

Tenth — They  do  not  have  good  shelter  from  the  rain,  wind  and 
blazing  sun. 

Eleventh — Their  apartments  are  badly  ventilated,  and  they  are 
forced  to  breathe  bad  air.  They  are  good  subjects  for  cholera, 
roup,  rheumatism,  gapes,  and  canker. 

Twelfth — Crooked  backs  and  wry  tails  are  caused  by  some  hurt  ; 
many  times,  I  think,  by  squeezing  between  the  slats  of  a  coop.  For 
that  reason,  the  slats  should  run  up  and  down.  (See  Chapter  on 
Coops.)  Many  times  by  having  been  picked  or  trod  upon  by  larger 
fowls  ;  or  jumping  from  roosts  ;  or,  strange  as  it  may  seem,  by  eat- 
ing corn  in  the  kernel  when  too  young  In  many  cases  these  defor- 
mities are  hereditary.  In-and-in  breeding  will  produce  it  often,  as 
well  as  knock-knees,  crooked  feet  and  toes,  and  other  deformities. 

Thirteenth — Clump-foot  is  often  caused  by  jumping  down  too 
far  from  roost,  and  striking  too  solidly  on  the  ball  of  the  foot. 
The  swelling  can  be  opened  and  the  core  taken  out,  but  the  foot 
will  always  be  tender,  and  will  soon  swell  up  again. 

Fourteenth — Roup,  frozen  feet  and  combs,  and  other  ills,  are 
brought  on  by  the  fowls  running  out  in  the  cold,  windy  and  rainy 
weather ;  standing  in  the  rain  or  snow,  or  roosting  where  the  wind 
blows  on  them,  or  in  a  damp,  cold  place. 

Fifteenth — Limbs  broken  by  sticks,  stones,  dogs  or  otherwise,  can 
be  cared  for  by  shutting  the  fowl  by  itself,  where  it  will  be  quiet. 
Give  plenty  and  variety  to  eat,  and  the  fracture  will  heal  itself. 

Sixteenth — High  feed,  and  sudden  change  of  feed  in  hot  weather, 
will  often  produce  diarrhoea  or  cholera. 

Seventeenth — By  purpose  or  accident,  cocks  get  together  and 
bruise  each  other  badly  before  separated.  The  result  is  often  dis- 
figurement for  life,  and  sometimes  death. 

Eighteenth  —Fowls  are  often  confined  in  exhibition  coops  at  fairs, 
in  close  rooms,  for  several  days,  and  do  not  live  long  after  they  are 
let  out.  The  change,  confinement,  want  of  gravel  and  other  things 
which  they  were  accustomed  to  have,  and  the  change  back,  were 
too  much. 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING.  47 

The  foregoing  relates  to  ills  brought  on  by  inattention.  I  am  sat- 
isfied, from  further  observation,  that  much  of  the  seeming  inatten- 
tion is  carried  to  such  an  extreme  that  a  chapter  would  more  prop- 
erly be  headed — 

Disease  and  Death  brought  on  by  Cupidity  and  Cussedness. 
It  is  a  fact,  that  so  strong  is  the  desire  on  the  part  of  some  to  get 
something  from  nothing,  or  bring  profit  from  dead  carcasses,  that 
they  will  knowingly  let  their  stock  eat  the  fowls  and  animals  dying 
of  disease  on  their  places — when  they  know  that,  in  less  than 
twenty-four  hours,  the  substances  which  a  fowl  swallows  will  be 
worked  over  into  eggs  or  flesh.  Who  will  say  it  is  healthy  flesh  or 
eggs?  The  accompanying  letter  is  so  to  the  point  that  I  publish  it, 
and  give  it  so  hearty  an  "  Hamen  !"  as  would  give  me  one  of  the 
best  seats  at  a  Georgia  camp-meeting  : 

WEBSTER,  MONROE  Co.,  N.  Y.,  March  28,  1885. 
Mr.  G.  M .   T.  Johnson,  Binghamton,    N.    Y. : 

DEAR  SIR  : — Your  "  PRACTICAL  POULTRY  KEEPING"  has  come  to 
hand.  I  have  not  yet  had  time  to  give  it  a  careful  reading,  but  have 
found  good  ideas,  and  much  practical  information  that  meets  my 
hearty  approval. 

On  the  last  page  you  "invite  all  poultry-keepers  "  to  write  to  you. 
I  do  not  claim  that  the  above  invitation  is  extended  to  me,  for  I  am 
not  what  might  be  called  a  "  poultry-keeper,"  but  a  small  farmer 
who  keeps  poultry  for  profit, — the  profit  mostly  coming  from  the 
sale  of  fresh  eggs  to  consumers  during  the  winter.  A  basement 
under  my  barn,  with  cow-stables  and  hen-roost  attached,  make  a 
fine  run  for  fowls  in  cold  winter  weather,  and  I  find  them  the  best 
investment  on  the  farm. 

In  speaking  of  diseased  fowls,  on  page  39,  you  say:  "There  is 
only  one  remedy  that  is  any  way  satisfactory,  viz.,  the  hand-axe  and 
chopping-block."  This  has  been  my  experience  and  practice  ;  but 
to  prevent  "spreading  the  disease,"  the  decapitated  fowl,  head  in- 
cluded, should  be  buried  so  deep  that  it  would  not  be  resurrected 
should  Gabriel  sound  his  trumpet  !  instead  of  being  thrown  down 
in  the  barn-yard  for  the  fowls  and  hogs  to  devour,  as  very  many 
farmers  would  do.  Some  farmers,  whose  cattle  or  horses  have  died 
from  disease  or  accident,  have  left  the  carcass  in  the  yard  as  food 
for  their  ho^s  and  fowls,  and  they — the  farmers  and  their  families  — 
have  in  turn  eaten  the  fowls  and  swine. 

Is  it  any  wonder  that  we  have  so  many  hoggish  bipeds  among  us? 
Any  wonder  that  scrofulous  and  cancerous  diseases  are  on  the  in- 


48        PRACTICAL  POULTRY  KEEPING. 

crease?  Any  wonder  that  trichina  and  kindred  diseases  infest  our 
animal  food  ?  All  animals  dying  from  disease — fowls  included — 
should  be  deeply  buried,  or  decomposed  with  lime  or  acids,  and 
converted  into  fertilizers. 

And  this  reminds  me  of  a  workhouse  boy  who  had  been  appren- 
ticed to  a  farmer,  and  who,  after  six  or  eight  months,  returned  to 
the  workhouse,  when  the  following  dialogue  took  place  between 
the  guardian  and  the  boy  : 

"Did  they  beat  you?"     "No,  sir." 

"  Then  why  did  you  run  away?" 

"  Please  sir,  soon  after  I  got  there,  a  pig  died  ;  they  salted  it, 
and  we  had  to  eat  it.  Then  a  calf  died,  and  they  salted  it,  and  we 
had  fur  to  eat  that  too.  Then  master's  grandmother  died,  and  I 
seed  'em  taking  some  salt  to  her  room  !  and  I  run'd  away." 

Now  I  cannot  believe  that  any  farmer  is  degraded  enough  to  eat 
flesh  from  diseased  dead  animals,  but  it  is  a  fact  that  some  eat  the 
flesh  of  animals  and  fowls  that  have  fed  on  diseased  dead  animals. 
It  should  be  forcibly  impressed  on  the  minds  of  all  farmers,  that 
leaving  dead  animals  on  the  surface,  to  be  devoured  by  other  ani- 
mals, is  a  filthy,  dangerous,  disease-producing,  tinlawf  id  practice. 

All  of  the  above  you  thoroughly  understand,  and  I  merely  call  it 
to  your  mind,  so  that  if  you  think  proper,  you  will  mention  it  in 
your  fifth  edition. 

Yours,  for  Progress  and  Improvement, 

LYMAN  WALL. 

In  all  of  these  cases  the  first  thing  to  be  used  is — a  little  common 
sense.  Look  for  the  cause,  and  check  it  at  once.  The  appearance 
of  the  comb  of  a  fowl  is  a  good  indication  of  its  condition.  When 
large  and  red,  the  hen  is  in  a  thrifty  state  of  health,  and  her  organs 
in  a  high  state  of  activity.  But  when  it  is  purple  or  pale,  we  must 
look  out  for  disease.  Under  this  head,  I  might  appear  to  be  very 
wise,  as  some  others,  and  give  remedies  for  every  disease,  but,  like 
them,  I  would  be  obliged  when  questioned  closely,  to  say,  the  hen 
died.  I  am  frank  to  say,  that  after  disease  has  fastened  itself  on  a 
fowl,  considering  the  comparatively  little  value,  the  risk  of  spread- 
ing the  disease,  and  the  trouble,  expense  and  unpleasantness  of 
treating  her,  that  there  is  one,  and  only  one  remedy  that  is  any  way 
satisfactory,  and  that  is  so  simple,  so  quick,  and  so  effective,  I  can 
give  it  a  high  recommend  as  the  best  known,  and  the  one  which  I 
commonly  follow.  Here  it  is — 

[See  next  page .] 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY  KEEPING.  49 


But  ninety  cases  of  disease  out  of  every  hundred  are  brought  on 
by  one  of  these  three  causes  :  ist,  Exposure  to  winds,  cold,  rain  or 
hot  sun  ;  2d,  Too  sudden  change  of  diet ;  3d,  Filthy  water,  food, 
apartments,  and  bad  air. 

If  it  is  decided  to  doctor  the  fowl  taken  with  any  disease,  let  it 
be  at  once  removed  to  quarters  by  itself.  Before  dosing,  we  must 
be  fully  settled  in  our  own  minds  what  the  trouble  is,  and  then  at- 
tend to  it.  It  will  not  do  to  risk  the  rest  of  the  flock.  If  we  do 
not  find  out  what  is  the  matter,  and  the  disease  does  not  seem  far 
advanced,  we  give  the  fowl  comfortable  quarters  alone,  with  sun- 
light and  fresh  earth,  but  nothing  to  eat  or  drink  until  the  question 
as  to  what  ib  the  matter,  is  settled.  Many  times  this  alone  will  set 
the  fowl  right  after  a  few  days.  Perhaps  all  she  needed  was  rest, 
and  to  give  her  bowels  rest.  Should  the  disease  prove  to  be  cholera 
or  roup,  the  hand-axe  is  the  only  thing  that  should  be  called  for. 
I  believe  the  majority  of  poultrymen  will  agree  with  me  when  I  say, 
there  are  more  fowls  lost  by  a  delay  in  using  the  axe  than  were  ever 
saved  by  all  the  medicines  known.  The  three  diseases, 

PARASITES   ROUP,    AND   CHOLERA, 

cover  most  of  the  ailments  of  the  fowl,  as  known  to  this  country. 
Parasites  we  class  among  the  diseases.  It  is  the  proper  place  for  it. 
Under  this  head  come  Gapes,  Body  Lice,  and  Mites. 

GAPES 

are  caused  by  a  little  worm,  of  a  light  red  color,  in  the  fowl's  wind- 
pipe. Each  worm  is  double,  the  male  and  female  together,  some- 
what in  the  form  of  a  letter  Y,  about  seven-eighths  of  an  inch  long, 
the  male  strongly  attached  to  the  female  by  means  of  a  strong  mem- 
branous sucker.  The  heads,  when  magnified,  appear  to  be  all 
mouth,  by  which  they  attach  themselves  to  the  lining  of  the  wind- 
pipe, with  a  sucker-like  grip.  These  worms  lay  eggs  in  great  num- 
bers, which  are  found  attached  to  their  bodies.  Just  where  the  gape 
worm  came  from,  or  how  or  when  these  eggs  are  hatched,  no  one 
knows.  Some  say  the  worm  is  produced  from  the  parasite  of  the 


PRACTICAL  POULTRY    KEEPING. 


body,  which  finds  its  way  to  the  wind-pipe,  and  takes  the  form  of 
the  worm.  But  that  does  not  seem  probable.  One  thing  writers 
seem  to  be  agreed  on  :  That  chickens  raised  on  old  grounds,  where 
chickens  years  before  had  the  gapes,  are  subject  to  them,  when  on 
new  grounds,  or  grounds  not  previously  infected  with  them,  were 
free  from  them.  Dr.  Dickie  says  :  "  I  have  known  the  gapes  to  be 
very  troublesome  on  one  side  of  a  public  road,  while  on  the  other 
side  the  broods  were  not  afflicted,  for  several  successive  years,  but 
the  disease  finally  made  its  way  across  the  road,  carried,  probably 
by  the  chicks  themselves  from  one  side  to  the  other."  It  would 
seem  that  the  soil  on  which  gapey  chickens  had  lived  was  dangerous 
ground. 

Symptoms.  —  At  short  intervals  the  chick  throws  up  its  head  and 
gasps  for  breath  —  is  choked. 

Remedy.  —  Like  all  other  fowl  diseases,  it  is  much  more  difficult 
than  the  prevention.  A  much  approved  plan  is  to  take  a  feather  ; 
strip  it  to  within  half  an  inch  of  the  tip  ;  double  this  tip  over,  so  as 
to  draw  the  worms  out,  instead  of  pushing  them  down  ;  dip  it  in 
kerosene,  turpentine,  or  carbolic-acid  water,  and  put  it  down  the 
wind-pipe,  which,  by  opening  the  mouth,  will  be  seen  at  the  base  of 
the  tongue.  Turn  it  round  and  draw  it  out.  It  will  probably  bring 
some  worms  with  it.  Do  so  two  or  three  times. 

The  object  of  dipping  the  feather  in  the  kerosene,  turpentine  or 
carbolic-acid  water  is,  to  kill  whatever  worms  may  be  left,  and  the 
chick  can  throw  them  out.  A  horse-hair,  made  in  the  form  of  a 
loop,  is  often  used.  Destroy  by  fire  all  worms  extracted.  All 
chicks  which  die  with  this  disease,  should  be  burned  or  buried 
deeply,  away  from  the  yards.  Many  are  very  careless  about  leaving 
the  bodies  of  chickens  dying  by  disease,  round  the  yards.  Gapes 
are  rather  a  result  of  neglect,  one  time  or  another. 

One  of  the  most  approved  remedies  is  fumigation.  Put  some 
carbolic  acid  in  an  iron  dish,  and  hold  it  over  a  fire.  When  the 
fumes  from  the  heated  acid  arise,  hold  the  chick's  head  in  it.  It 
will  nearly  suffocate  it,  but  that  is  what  will  cause  it  to  expel  the 
worm.  Sulphur,  spirits  of  turpentine  or  creosote,  are  also  used. 

A  person  told  me  that  he  could  cure  a  brood  of  chicks,  all  at  the 
same  time,  by  placing  them  in  a  tight  box,  and  blowing  tobacco 
smoke  through  a  small  hole.  They  must  be  watched  to  see  that 
they  are  not  suffocated. 

Sometimes  the  wind-pipe  is  opened  from  the  outside,  with  a  sharp 
knife,  and  the  worms  removed,  and  the  outer  skin  (only)  sewed  up 

Another  remedy  is  to  confine  the  chicks  in  a  tight  box,  and  sift 


52  PRACTICAL   POULTRY   KEEPING. 

some  air-slacked  lime  through  a  piece  of  coarse  muslin.  This,  too, 
will  cause  the  bird  to  sneeze  and  expel  the  worm. 

Douglass'  Mixture  in  the  water,  when  no  other  medicine  is  used, 
is  good  as  a  preventive.  (See  recipes.)  A  little  camphor  in  the 
drinking  water  is  good, — only, enough  to  give  it  a  pleasant  camphor 
taste. 

As  a  general  thing,  however,  it  does  not  pay  to  try  to  dose  chick- 
ens. Give  them  good,  healthy  grounds  and  food,  and  fresh  water, 
and  they  will  thrive. 

SCURVY   LEGS    ' 

are  now  known  to  be  caused  by  a  parasite  working  under  the  scales 
of  a  fowl's  legs.  Wash  well  with  strong  soap  suds,  and  when  dry, 
rub  with  an  ointment  made  of  lard,  sulphur  and  kerosene,  every 
week  till  healed.  Do  not  tear  off  the  scales.  They  will  come  off. 
Wash  again  in  soap-suds,  or  turn  on  kerosene  once  a  week,  till  re- 
moved. Two  applications  will  generally  be  sufficient. 

VERMIN. 

There  are  two  kinds  which  feed  on  the  body  of  the  hen  :  The 
ordinary  hen  louse,  which  sticks  close  to  the  body,  and  the  hen  mite, 
sometimes  called  a  spider.  It  is  very  small,  and  hardly  noticeable, 
unless  looked  for  sharply.  It  is  of  a  grey  color,  excepting  when 
full  of  blood,  when  it  is  red.  It  is  properly  the  offspring  of  neglect 
and  filth,  and  seldom  seen  in  a  flock  of  fowls  when  at  large,  and  not 
crowded  in  their  house.  They  are  a  hot-weather  insect  or  bug,  sel- 
dom troublesome  at  any  other  time.  They  do  not  live  on  the  body 
of  the  fowl,  but  go  on  them,  commonly  at  night  while  on  the  roost, 
to  get  their  food.  They  are  properly  the  hen  bed-bug.  They  live 
in  the  cracks  of  the  building,  on  the  roost,  floors  and  sides  of  the 
building,  and  in  the  nests.  They  will  gather  in  large  blotches  ; 
when  full,  these  blotches  look  red.  They  will  often  take  possession 
of  adjoining  stables,  and  get  on  horses  and  cows,  which  will  rub 
themselves  until  they  bleed,  under  the  torture  of  the  little  pests. 
It  is  a  very  difficult  task  to  get  them  off  a  horse  or  cow.  I  know 
one  case  where  it  cost  fifteen  dollars  to  get  them  off  a  horse,  after  it 
had  disfigured  itself  badly  by  rubbing.  It  does  not  seem  to  dis- 
commode them  if  the  fowls  are  all  taken  from  the  building.  If  the 
weather  is  warm  they  will  wait,  I  think,  for  months,  and  be  ready 
any  day  for  business.  In  the  summer  of  1883,  I  had  a  house  which 
was  infested  with  these  mites.  The  fowls  were  all  taken  out  Aug. 
4th,  and  no  other  fowls  allowed  to  occupy  the  house.  From  week 
to  week  I  examined  the  building,  which  was  shut  up  for  the  express 
purpose  of  testing  how  long  the  mites  would  live.  They  were  there 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING.  53 

and  came  out  of  the  cracks,  but  in  diminished  numbers,  every  time 
I  rapped  on  the  boards,  till  winter.  I  rapped  at  their  home  again 
on  a  warm  day  in  April,  after  a  long,  cold  winter,  the  mercury  at 
times  having  been  30  degrees  below  zero,  and  they  came  out  to  see 
what  was  the  matter,  running  round  as  lively  as  in  the  summer  be- 
fore ;  but  as  I  looked  at  them  through  a  microscope,  I  thought  they 
looked  thin  ;  I  examined  the  building  again  on  the  8th  of  May,  and 
on  the  2Oth.  I  could  wait  no  longer.  I  tore  the  house  down,  find- 
ing the  bugs  yet  present  in  full  force.  During  all  this  time,  from 
Aug.  4th,  1883,  to  May  2oth,  1884,  there  had  not  been  a  fowl  allowed 
in  the  building  or  near  it.  I  would  hardly  credit  this  story  if  I  had 
not  myself  kept  the  house  under  my  own  eye,  with  special  reference 
to  testing  how  long,  and  under  what  conditions  they  would  live. 

These  mites  are  so  demoralizing  to  the  fowl,  and  so  persistent  in 
holding  possession  of  a  house,  and  also  so  disagreeable  to  fight,  that 
a  person  wants  to  burn  house  and  all,  for  the  satisfaction  of  burning 
them.  I  am  often  asked  for  a  remedy.  It  is  hard  to  give  ;  and  the 
only  one  I  know  of,  means  work  and  personal  exposure  to  the  pests  ; 
and  a  person  who  has  once  been  exposed,  will  ever  after  dread  an 
exposure.  The  mites  will  make  themselves  at  home  on  the  human 
body,  crawling  up  and  down  the  back,  and  in  the  hair  or  whiskers — 
but  just  then  the  human  body  does  not  feel  at  home  !  They  will  live 
in  the  clothes,  so  that  a  person  can  not  tell  when  he  will  feel  them  : 
perhaps  when  leading  the  choir  on  Sunday  morning,  or  perhaps 
when  away  from  home,  having  an  evening  chat  with  his  best  girl. 
It  is  easy  for  him  to  persuade  himself  that  he  has  a  touch  of  the 
jim-jams,  or  he  may  think  it  best  to  have  a  committee  appointed  to 
examine  him  as  to  his  sanity.  To  any  of  my  readers  who  may  not 
at  all  times  be  precise  in  their  language,  I  would  say  :  It  will  do 
no  good  to  try  to  express  your  feelings.  It  is  very  hard  to  get  rid 
of  them.  The  most  sure  way  is  to  burn  one's  clothes,  and  then  dip 
himself  in  boiling  water  !  Nothing  very  pleasant  in  the  remedy, 
but  then  it  is  a  great  satisfaction  to  know  that  the  mites  are  dead  ! 
The  best  remedy  is  a  preventive — which,  in  a  word,  is  cleanliness. 

If  fowls  have  full  range,  they  will  commonly  keep  themselves 
clean,  but  when  confined  in  small  yards,  the  extras  must  be  provided. 
They  must  have  a  good  place  to  dust  themselves  in  fresh  dust :  it 
should  be  changed  every  week  in  hot  weather.  (See  Chapter  on 
Poultry  Houses.)  I  have  observed  that  after  their  dust  gets  old, 
they  will  shun  it. 

To  whitewash  a  building,  the  roosts  and  the  nests,  is  a  great  help 
to  keep  out  vermin.  Put  a  little  carbolic  acid  in  the  wash,  enough 


54  PRACTICAL   POULTRY   KEEPING. 

to  give  it  a  "  right  smart  of  a  smell."  It  is  also  a  good  thing  to 
wash  the  roosts  and  sprinkle  the  sides  of  the  building  with  kero- 
sene. This  is  a  sure  preventive — very  simple,  and  very  quick. 
Sulphur  should  be  sprinkled  very  freely  on  all  parts  of  the  building, 
in  the  nests  and  around  the  roosts.  Rub  an  ointment  made  of  lard, 
sulphur  and  kerosene,  under  the  wings  and  tail  of  each  fowl.  Some 
poultrymen  recommend  to  fumigate  the  hen-house.  To  do  this, 
remove  the  fowls  and  everything  valuable  that  breathes.  Look  out 
for  horses,  cows  and  the  like.  If  in  the  same  building  or  adjoining, 
remove  them.  Put  two  or  three  pounds  of  brimstone  or  sulphur  in 
an  iron  pot,  in  such  a  way  as  not  to  endanger  the  building  ;  apply  a 
match  ;  shut  it  closely,  and  let  it  burn  slowly ;  keep  the  doors  and 
windows  closed  for  four  or  five  hours.  Thoroughly  ventilate  before 
letting  the  fowls  in  the  building. 

From  my  personal  observation  and  experience,  I  think  fumigating 
is  a  good  thing,  but  will  not  rid  the  house  of  mites.  In  a  very  per- 
sistent case,  where  they  had  full  possession,  after  fumigating  and 
failing,  I  used  Persian  Insect  Powder  (obtainable  at  almost  any  drug 
store),  with  a  little  bellows  made  especially  for  blowing  it.  I  blew 
the  powder  in  the  cracks  of  the  building,  in  the  nests,  on  the  roosts, 
and  sparingly  among  the  feathers  of  the  fowls.  It  was  the  final  blow. 

ROUP. 

This  word  covers  a  multitude  of  ills.  It  is  often  called  sore  head, 
sore  throat,  inflamed  eyes,  swelled  head,  catarrh,  pustulated  nostrils, 
but  all  of  these  are  rather  different  phases  of  the  one  disease — Roup. 

Symptoms. — As  a  general  thing,  this  disease  is  the  result  of  a  cold. 
The  fowl  appears  so  affected  :  it  sneezes  and  coughs  ;  its  eyes  run, 
and  it  acts  very  much  as  though  it  felt  the  same  as  a  person  would 
with  a  cold.  The  hen  appears  drowsy,  goes  off  in  a  corner  of  the 
yard  by  herself,  mopish  ;  she  sneezes  and  gasps  for  breath,  and  ap- 
pears choked.  After  a  few  days,  the  head  swells.  Offensive  watery 
substances  run  from  the  eyes,  and  the  comb  has  a  dead  look.  The 
fowl's  throat  is  often  so  swollen  that  it  can  swallow  but  little,  and 
in  its  endeavors,  it  will  stand  at  the  drinking  vessel  going  through 
the  motions, — the  result  of  which  is  simply  rinsing  out  its  poisonous 
mouth  in  the  water  for  other  fowls  to  drink.  Hence  we  see  how  im- 
portant it  is  to  remove  the  fowl  when  first  taken.  Its  very  breath  is 
poisonous.  The  disease,  after  well  settled,  is  contagious,  and  will 
soon  spread  through  the  flock. 

The  Remedy. — I  am  very  strongly  of  the  opinion,  that  after  the 
disease  has  passed  the  stage  of  cold,  and  become  roup,  the  only 
practicable  way  is  to  kill  it,  and  give  it  a  decent  burial.  And  what 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING.  55 

remedies  I  offer,  will  apply  to  the  first  stages,  or  cold.  What  has 
been  said  heretofore  about  warm  houses,  freedom  from  draughts, 
and  good  ventilation,  should  be  well  looked  to ;  the  sick  one  not 
further  exposed  ;  cayenne  pepper  put  in  its  drinking  water  till  it  is 
a  sort  of  pepper  tea  ;  bathe  the  face,  nose  and  head  with  kerosene  ; 
also  put  half-teaspoonful  in  the  mouth — do  this  once  a  day  ;  mix 
cayenne  pepper,  or  in  want  of  that,  use  black  pepper,  in  warm  feed, 
in  which  is  mixed  hot  lard  or  butter.  This,  in  ordinary  cases,  will 
prove  effectual  as  a  remedy  in  a  few  days'  time.  Do  not  use  the 
kerosene  longer  than  is  necessary. 

A  person  writes  me  that  he  has  had  very  good  success  by  using 
glycerine  as  an  ointment  for  the  head,  and  given  in  the  mouth. 

The  following  letter  on  the  subject  I  believe  of  value  : 

PRINCESS  ANNE,  Md.,  ) 
Jan.  20,  1885.          f 

G.  M.  T.  JOHNSON — Dear  Sir: — I  think  I  have  found  a  specific 
for  roupe,  in  Vaseline.  My  flock  of  thirty-six  have  nearly  all  had 
it,  and  I  have  not  lost  a  case  in  which  I  have  tried  Vaseline.  I  feed 
them  with  meal,  with  a  teaspoonful  of  cooking  soda  to  the  half- 
gallon  ;  the  same  of  pepper  and  pulverized  sulphur.  After  they 
have  well  eaten,  give  each  one  a  piece  of  Vaseline  the  size  of  two 
grains  of  corn,  and  grease  thoroughly  the  comb,  and  all  parts  that 
are  sore,  with  the  same.  Give  weak  pepper  tea  to  drink,  and  keep 
all  the  sufferers  shut  up  by  themselves.  Try  this  for  yourself,  and 
I  think  you  will  like  it.  It  has  cured  mine,  and  I  think  will  yours. 
My  fowl  caught  it  from  an  unburied  victim  of  an  adjoining  flock, 
— which  proves,  as  your  book  says,  that  it  is  highly  contagious. 

Miss  ANNIE  E.  UPSHUR. 

Princess  Anne,  Somerset  Co.,  Md. 

Even  after  the  case  becomes  chronic,  I  would  give  the  foregoing 
remedies  a  good  trial. 

James  L.  Bowen,  a  breeder,  gives  this  as  his  remedy  :  "  Dissolve 
a  teaspoonful  of  chlorate  of  potash  in  a  cup  of  water,  and  give  a 
teaspoonful  of  the  mixture  once  or  twice  a  day.  If  the  nostrils  are 
bad,  rinse  them  with  a  solution  of  sulphate  of  zinc,  about  the  same 
strength  as  above,  using  a  small,  rubber-headed,  glass  syringe.1' 
This  he  recommends,  if  the  case  is  taken  in  time. 

T.  B.  Dorsey,  another  breeder,  gives  the  following  as  his  recipe  : 
"Give  one-half  to  a  full  teaspoonful  of  castor  oil,  and  put  in  a  dry, 
warm  place.  Feed  with  soft  food  only,  mixed  with  hot  ale  and  red 
pepper  ;  examine  carefully  for  vermin,  and  clean.  Wash  under  the 
wings  with  whiskey.  Give  little  water,  and  that  with  tincture  of 


56  PRACTICAL  POULTRY    KEEPING. 

iron  or  cayenne  pepper  in  it,  once  or  twice  daily.  If  no  better  in 
two  days,  give  a  drop  or  two  of  turpentine  in  morning  feed,  or  one- 
half  teaspoonful  of  balsam  capalba.  Syringe  nostrils  if  foul,  with 
weak  solution  of  carbolic-acid  water  or  chlorinated  soda.  Do  not 
dose  too  much.  Trust  the  hot  ale." 

Lewis  Wright,  generally  regarded  as  a  good  authority,  says : 
"  Keep  them  warm,  and  feed  with  meal  only,  mixed  with  hot  ale 
instead  of  water.  Add  Douglass'  mixture  to  the  water,  and  give 
daily,  in  a  pill  of  meal,  half  a  grain  of  cayenne  pepper,  with  half  a 
grain  of  allspice.  Give  also  half  a  cabbage  leaf  every  day,  and 
wash  the  head  and  eyes,  morning  and  night,  with  weak  vinegar  or  a 
five-grain  solution  of  sulphate  of  zinc." 

A  home  remedy,  which  has  been  highly  recommended  to  me  by 
those  who  have  used  it,  is  :  Mix  lard  stiff  with  cayenne  pepper,  and 
three  times  a  day,  till  better,  put  down  the  fowl  a  piece  as  large 
as  an  ordinary  sewing-thimble,  or  even  twice  that  ;  keep  in  warm 
room,  and  give  warm,  soft  feed. 

It  will  be  observed  that  all  of  these  amount  to  about  the  same 
thing — that  is  :  Clean  out  the  poisonous  substances  from  the  head, 
and  stimulate  the  fowl  ;  this,  added  to  careful  nursing,  is  expected 
to  cure,  if  it  is  not  too  far  along.  We  must  keep  on  the  watch  for 
this  disease  ;  keep  the  fowls  in-doors  in  bad  weather  ;  keep  their 
apartments  dry  and  clean,  and  we  shall  keep  our  fowls. 

CHOLERA. 

Symptoms, — The  fowl  has  a  sleepy,  drooping  appearance  ;  has  a 
slow,  staggering  gait;  is  very  thirsty;  its  comb  loses  its  natural 
color  ;  there  is  diarrhoea,  a  greenish  discharge.  If  left  alone,  the 
fowl  will  live  but  a  few  hours. 

Until  within  a  few  years  this  disease  has  not  been  troublesome  in 
this  country.  It  is  now  much  more  prevalent  in  the  South  and  West 
than  in  the  North  and  East.  It  has  been  considered  by  many  that 
it  was  a  disease  of  filth,  spontaneously  produced  ;  by  others,  that 
certain  localities,  especially  low  and  damp,  were  more  subject  to  its 
ravages,  and  that  cleanliness  and  dry  grounds  were  the  only  pre- 
ventives. I  am  persuaded  that  these  conditions  act  very  strongly 
in  the  operation  of  this  disease,  for  and  against,  but  from  the  inves- 
tigations and  discoveries  which  have  been  made  within  the  past  five 
years,  I  am  more  persuaded  that  chicken  cholera  is  a  contagious 
disease  ;  that  under  certain  conditions — which  are  simply  taking  in 
the  system,  by  mouth  or  inoculation,  one  of  the  poisonous  germs — 
the  fowl  will  be  taken  with  the  disease,  however  well  it  may  be 
cared  for.  It  has  been  discovered  that  the  cause  of  cholera  is  a 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY   KEEPING.  57 

microscopic  organic  gerrff;  that  this  germ  will  multiply  itself  till 
all  of  the  blood  and  the  flesh  and  excrements  are  filled  with  them. 
It  spreads  mainly  from  the  excrements.  The  least  particle  taken 
into  the  system  will  produce  disease.  It  is  also  given  by  inocula- 
tion. If  with  a  sharp-pointed  knife  we  scrape  off  a  little  skin  of  a 
fowl,  and  touch  it  with  the  minutest  particle  of  blood  or  excrements 
of  a  diseased  fowl,  that  fowl  will  have  the  disease  in  regular  order, 
whether  the  fowl  has  been  cleanly  kept  or  not. 

I  will  give  some  abridged  extracts  from  Professor  Pasteur's  ad- 
dress before  the  International  Medical  College,  in  London,  August 
8th,  1881,  as  to  the  virulence  of  this  organic  germ,  producing 
cholera.  He  says  :  Let  us  take  a  fowl  which  is  about  to  die  of 
chicken  cholera,  and  let  us  dip  the  end  of  a  glass  rod  in  the  blood 
of  the  fowl,  with  the  usual  precautions.  Let  us  touch,  with  this 
charged  point,  some  chicken  broth.  In  a  short  time  the  liquid  will 
become  turbid,  and  full  of  tiny  microbes  Take  from  this  vessel 
as  much  as  can  be  taken  on  the  point  of  glass  the  size  of  a  needle, 
and  touch  a  fresh  quantity  of  chicken  broth,  and  the  same  phe- 
nomena will  be  produced.  In  the  same  way,  the  third,  fourth,  to 
the  hundredth,  and  even  the  thousandth, — and  in  a  few  hours  the 
liquid  becomes  filled  with  the  same  minute  organisms.  Let  us  take 
one  of  our  series — say  the  hundredth  or  thousandth — and  compare 
it,  with  respect  to  virulence,  with  the  blood  of  a  fowl  that  has  died 
of  chicken  cholera.  Inoculate  under  the  skin  ten  fowls,  each  sep- 
arately, with  a  drop  of  infectious  blood,  and  ten  others  with  a  drop 
of  the  liquid.  Strange  to  say,  the  latter  ten  hens  will  die  as  quickly, 
and  with  the  same  symptoms  as  the  former  ten.  The  blood  of  all 
will  be  found  to  contain  the  same  minute  infectious  organisms. 
From  this,  the  reader  will  get  a  good  idea  of  what  chicken  cholera 
is,  and  how  it  is  communicated.  It  will  be  seen  that  fowls  cannot 
go  on  infected  ground,  and  that  a  fowl  which  has  the  disease  can- 
not be  cremated  too  soon  for  the  good  of  the  flock.  It  should  not 
be  buried,  but  burned,  with  all  its  feathers  and  blood  and  excre- 
ments ;  and  its  house,  roosting-place  and  grounds  thoroughly  disin- 
fected. The  best  disinfectant  is  fire,  but  as  that  is  not  practicable, 
the  next  best  is  a  solution  of  sulphuric  acid.  It  is  discovered  that 
this  kills  the  germs  effectually.  Sulphuric  acid  is  cheap,  but  it  must 
be  carefully  handled  until  it  is  diluted.  Make  a  solution  in  the  pro- 
portion of  three  pounds  of  sulphuric  acid  to  forty  gallons  of  water, 
well  mixed,  and  thoroughly  wet  the  grounds  and  roosts  and  every- 
thing connected  with  the  disease.  It  can  be  applied  pretty  well  with 
a  hand-sprinkling  pot.  It  will  not  do  to  let  a  germ  go  unwet,— 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING.  59 

they  will  be  as  virulent  five  years  hence  as  now.  Here  is  an  expla- 
nation how  it  is  that  fowls  have  cholera  on  the  same  grounds  year 
after  year  ;  whereas  yards  not  far  distant,  that  have  not  had  it,  do 
not  have  it ;  but  a  fowl  that  has  once  walked  in  an  infected  yard,  I 
would  not  allow  in  a  healthy  yard  of  fowls.  A  minute  particle  of 
excrement  could  easily  be  carried  on  the  foot. 

If  we  can  vaccinate  for  cholera  in  its  worst  form,  we  may  ask, 
Can  we  not  for  the  milder  form,  as  we  do  for  the  small-pox  in  a 
mild  form  ?  Professor  Pasteur  has  produced  virus  for  that,  with 
which  he  vaccinated  fowls  for  cholera  with  success. 

But  from  the  nature  of  the  case,  this  remedy  is  very  impracticable 
for  the  general  poultry  keeper.  It  does,  however,  give  us  a  good 
understanding  of  the  virulent  nature  of  the  disease.  We  must  have, 
if  possible,  a  remedy  which  can  be  obtained  and  used  by  any  one. 

In  the  summer  of  1883,  a  correspondent  of  the  "  Home  and 
Farm  "  called  for  a  remedy  for  the  chicken  cholera.  In  response, 
the  following  remedies,  suggested  by  those  who  had  tried  them, 
were  published  in  that  paper.  I  gave  their  letters  in  full  in  fourth 
edition,  but  here  in  an  abridged  form,  to  give  room  to  others  : 

[REMEDY  No.  i.] — My  remedy  is  tobacco.  Take  a  piece  of  plug 
tobacco  and  pour  hot  water  over  it,  making  a  strong  tea  ;  then  make 
your  dough  up  with  it,  and  feed  to  your  chickens  three  times  a  day. 
It  has  never  failed  to  cure  for  me,  unless  my  chickens  were  too  sick 
to  eat.  MRS.  H.  O.  WILLIAMS. 

Thomson,  McDuffie  County,  Ga. 

[REMEDY  No.  2.] — In  answer  to  your  Sulphur  Springs  (Texas) 
correspondent,  I  would  say,  Try  pulverized  nux  vomica  for  chicken 
cholera  ;  one  teaspoonful  to  twenty  hens,  twice  a  week,  given  in  their 
food,  is  a  never-failing  preventive.  To  all  that  are  visibly  affected, 
give  a  drench  made  of  the  same.  This  is  a  sure  cure  for  chicken 
cholera,  and,  as  far  as  I  have  tried,  is  equally  good  for  hog  cholera. 

Social  Hill,  Ark.  V.  T. 

[REMEDY  No.  3.] — We  have  tried  a  cure  for  several  years,  and  it 
has  never  failed.  I  found  the  recipe  in  "  Household  and  Farmers' 
Cyclopedia."  For  chicken  cholera — Alum,  two  ounces  ;  resin,  two 
ounces  ;  copperas,  two  ounces  ;  sac  sulphur,  two  ounces  ;  cayenne 
pepper,  two  ounces.  Pulverize,  and  then  mix  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  the  powder  with  one  quart  of  corn  meal,  and  dampen  for  use. 
This  quantity  is  sufficient  for  twelve  chickens,  and  may  be  used 
either  as  a  preventive  or  as  a  cure  ;  for  the  first,  it  should  be  given 
once  or  twice  a  week. 

China  Grove,  N.  C.  W.  H.  CORN. 


60  PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING. 

[REMEDY  No.  4.] — Take  one  tablespoon  of  copperas,  and  pour  a 
pint  of  boiling  water  in  it  ;  mix  with  corn  meal,  and  feed  to  fowls. 

Madison,  Morgan  County,  Ga.  A.   H.  MALLORY. 

In   my  fourth  edition  of  thi^  book,  I  asked  those  having  recipes 
which  they  knew  to  be  good,  to  write  me.     In  response,  I  have  re- 
ceived two  or  three.     The  following  appears  from  good  source  : 
FORT  BRADY,  Mich.,  June  3,  1886. 

G.  M.  T.  JOHNSON  :— My  father,  at  Bristol,  England,  is  a  breeder 
of  fancy  poultry,  and  maker  of  the  Slades  Improved  Incubator, 
patented  March  22d,  1879.  He  has  the  acknowledged  best  yards 
of  White  Leghorns  and  Silver-Gray  Dorkings  in  the  West  of  Eng- 
land. I  here  send  you  a  receipt  for  Cholera  that  we  have  used  with 
good  effect  in  our  yards  in  England.  I  do  not  see  it  in  your  book  : 
Glycerine,  ^  oz. ;  Carbolic  acid,  10  drops  ;  Water,  yz  oz. 

When  the  fowls  are  first  affected,  give  five  drops,  and  repeat  every 
twelve  hours.  Sometimes  we  have  to  give  a  second  dose,  but  very 
seldom  a  third.  The  second  dose  usually  cures  them.  * 

I  remain  yours,  respectfully,  ED.  SLADE. 

Sault  De  St.  Marie,  Mich. 

CANKER. 

The  most  of  cases  which  I  have  seen  were  brought  on  by  poor 
ventilation  of  the  fowl  house.  Filthy  apartments,  and  food,  and 
drink  will  produce  it. 

Symptoms. — The  cankerous  blotches  will  appear  on  the  outside, 
and  in  the  mouth,  and  on  the  tongue. 

Remedy. — I  have  found  the  best  remedy  to  be  fresh  air  and  clean 
apartments.  I  have  known  cases  where  the  fowls  could  hardly 
breathe,  which  were  cured  with  no  other  remedy.  It  is  best  some- 
times to  open  the  mouth  and  scrape  off  the  canker  with  a  chip— not 
till  it  bleeds — and  then  apply,  with  a  swab,  a  solution  of  equal  parts 
of  chlorate  of  potash  and  alum.  This  will  generally  effect  a  cure 
if  the  house  is  dry,  clean  and  well  ventilated. 

DIARRHCEA. 

It  is  often  that  this  is  confounded  with  cholera.  It  is  brought  on 
by  stale  and  filthy  water,  damaged  food,  exposure  to  the  hot  sun, 
foul  houses  and  yaids,  and  crowded  apartments. 

Symptoms. — Drooping,  emaciation,  droppings  white  and  yellow, 
which  stick  to  the  feathers. 

Remedy.— Give  five  drops  of  camphor  on  a  piece  of  bread,  and 
put  half  teaspoonful  in  a  pint  of  drinking  water,  till  better. 

Douglass'  Mixture  in  the  water,  as  directed,  will  act  as  a  remedy. 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING.  6l 

It  is  best  to  confine  the  fowl  to  comfortable  quarters,  and  feed  very 
light. 

CROP    BOUND. 

The  crop  is  sometimes  hard,  and  sometimes  soft.  In  either  case 
the  passage  out  is  clogged  up.  The  trouble  is  often  removed  by 
giving  the  fowl  a  tablespoonful  of  castor  oil,  and  working  the  crop, 
holding  the  head  down.  When  that  does  not  relieve  the  trouble, 
cut  into  the  upper  part  of  it  carefully  ;  remove  the  contents  ;  wash 
it  out  with  warm  water,  and  put  into  the  crop  a  tablespoonful  of 
lard  ;  carefully  sew  up  the  crop  and  skin  separately,  with  white 
thread,  or  silk  if  convenient,  and  feed  lightly  with  soft  feed  for  a 
week  or  two. 

SOFT   SHELL. 

In  many  cases  it  is  a  peculiarity  of  the  fowl,  and  nothing  can 
remedy  it.  In  other  cases  it  is  too  high  feed,  or  want  of  shell- 
forming  material.  Give  plenty  of  oyster  shells,  broken  fine. 

APOPLEXY. 

Caused  by  over-feeding.  Little  can  be  done  with  the  individual 
fowl  but  to  bury  it,  as  the  bird  is  often  dead  before  we  are  aware 
that  it  is  sick.  But  the  dead  fowl  will  suggest  a  different  treatment 
of  the  living. 

WORMS. 

Symptoms. — The  fowl  is  emaciated  ;  worms  appear  in  the  drop- 
pings, and  sometimes  prove  very  troublesome. 

Remedy. — A  tablespoonfu!  of  soft  soap  to  a  quart  of  meal  will 
clear  them  out  ;  and  a  good  dose  of  castor  oil  will  often  do  the  work. 

FROST-BITES. 

Bathe  the  parts  frost-bitten  in  camphor  or  turpentine  ;  then  rub 
in  sweet  oil  or  carbolic  salve.  Oil  will  prevent  frost-bites,  to  a  cer- 
tain extent,  as  it  will  turn  the  water.  Frozen  wattles  often  come 
from  the  fowl  getting  them  wet,  while  drinking,  and  the  water  freez- 
ing on  them. 

KAD    FEATHERS. 

White  feathers  will  sometimes  appear  in  the  plumage  of  well- 
bred  black  or  brown  fowls, — which  are  not  admissible.  I  think  in 
many  of  these  cases,  the  bad  feathers  are  produced  by  some  slight 
hurt  while  growing.  A  fowl  that  has  been  an  underling  in  the 
flock,  or  has  had  hard  fare,  will  show  now  and  then  a  white  feather 
in  the  wing,  while  the  ruling  ones  will  not. 


DOMINIQUE   LEGHORNS. 

PART   IV. 

THE    DIFFERENT    BREEDS. 

It  will  be  impossible  to  give  here  as  full  a  description  and  history 
of  each  variety  of  fowls  as  could  be  desired,  but  what  space  we 
have  will  be  used  to  the  best  possible  advantage.  Strictly  speak- 
ing, there  is  no  such  thing  as  a  pure  bred  fowl.  There  are  those 
that  have  been  bred  straight  for  many  years,  and  now  produce 
chicks  like  parent,  but  they  have  relatives,  and  not  very  far  distant, 
that  go  by  another  name.  Our  majestic  Brahmas  and  Cochins — 
Light,  Dark,  White,  Black,  Partridge,  and  Buff— are  all  understood 
to  have  come  down  from  the  old  Cochin  China,  or  Shanghai,  first 
imported  from  China,  about  1847.  For  several  years  they  were 
bred  all  sorts  and  colors — anything  for  size ;  but  soon  certain  fan- 
ciers took  pains  to  select  to  certain  points  of  color,  build,  etc.,  till 
now  we  have  from  them  seven  "breeds, "all  from  one  parentage 
a  little  over  thirty  years  ago.  Again  :  Foreign  blood  is  introduced 
with  a  deliberate  purpose,  ft  is  well  understood  that  Black  Spanish 
blood  has  been  brought  into  the  Black  Hamburgh,  which  gives  it 


64  PRACTICAL    POULTRY    KEEPING. 

more  size,  and  otherwise  improves  it.  Of  course  when  foreign 
blood  is  so  brought  in,  it  takes  several  years  to  get  the  new  family 
"toned  down." 

A  breeder  near  Philadelphia  announced  in  the  spring  of  1880, 
that  he  was  bringing  Black  Spanish  blood  into  his  Brown  Leghorn 
stock,  and  that  in  a  few  years  he  would  produce  a  superior  strain  of 
Brown  Leghorns.  But  he  may  fail  entirely.  It  may  be  necessary 
to  reduce  the  Spanish  blood  to  one-eighth  or  one-sixteenth,  to  get 
rid  of  the  dark  legs  and  black  feathers.  At  all  events,  it  will  take 
several  years  before  it  is  a  safe  strain.  New  breeds  are  often  formed 
directly  from  others.  It  sometimes  happens  that  a  chick  will  be 
hatched,  marked  entirely  different  from  parent  stock.  It  is  called 
a  "sport."  By  careful  selection  of  chicks  from  this  "sport,"  a 
new  breed  may  be  formed.  It  is  only  six  years  that  the  Rose 
Combed  Brown  Leghorn  fowl  has  been  bred,  and  the  Rose  Combed 
White  Leghorn  fowl  has  been  known  by  the  public  generally  only 
eight  years  ;  and  the  Pea  Combed  Partridge  Cochin  only  ten  or 
eleven  years.  The  Wyandotte,  supposed  to  be  a  cross  between  the 
Dark  Brahma  and  Silver  Spangled  Hamburgh,  was  admitted  to  the 
standard  in  1883  ;  and  this  year,  for  the  first,  the  White  Wyandotte 
has  come  before  the  public  as  a  distinct  breed.  It  is  a  "sport" 
from  the  laced  Wyandottes.  (See  full-page  plate.)  As  a  general 
thing,  it  takes  ten  or  twelve  years  to  get  a  new  variety  so  it  will 
breed  straight  enough  to  entitle  it  to  the  name  of  "  breed." 

By  general  consent,  fowls  are  classed  as  Thoroughbreds,  Crosses, 
and  Dung/tills. 

The  first  is  one  bred  straight  for  a  number  of  years,  to  certain 
qualities  as  to  color  or  markings,  size,  shape,  adaptedness  to 
market,  laying,  etc. 

A  Cross  is  the  chick  of  a  pure  bred  cock  of  one  variety,  with  a 
pure  bred  hen  of  another.  Some  of  the  crosses  have  particular 
qualities  which  are  very  valuable. 

A  Dunghill  is  one  bred  from  our  common  stock,  or  mixtures  of 
different  breeds.  The  merits  of  any  fo%vl  depend  on  its  adapted- 
ness  to  certain  demands  of  the  people,  who  will  pay  money  for  it, 
whether  it  be  for  fancy  or  for  market  ;  and  just  here  comes  in  the 
question  of  value  of  poultry,  or  of  anything  else.  One  will  esti- 
mate its  value  by  the  market  prices.  Another  by  the  American 
Standard.  Another  by  the  pleasure  he  derives  from  it.  Another 
by  the  pleasure  his  wife  and  children  derive.  And  who  will  say  this 
last  man  is  not  as  nearly  correct  as  the  first?  A  thing  is  of  value  to 
us,  to  just  the  extent  that  we  can  get  good  from  it.  A  friend  said 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING.  65 

to  me,  that  he  would  sell  his  whole  flock  of  thoroughbred,  Black 
Spanish  fowls  cheap,  as  he  was  going  to  move  away  ;  but  he  pointed 
out  a  common,  short-legged,  red  rooster,  and  said  he  would  not 
take  a  ten-dollar  bill  for  that  rooster.  Why?  It  was  one  his  wife 
had  raised  from  a  chicken,  and  she  thought  so  much  of  it.  That 
remark  satisfied  me  that  he  was  one  of  the  best  judges  of  value  I 
had  met.  To  me,  the  rooster  was  worth  about  fifty  cents,  to  roast. 
It  was  not  my  place  to  say  it  was  not  worth  ten  dollars,  for  it  was — 
to  him.  If  there  is  a  demand  for  fowls  of  a  particular  feather  or 
markings,  shape  or  color,  then  these  fowls  are  of  value  according 
to  the  amount  they  will  bring.  That  is  what  gives  value  to  many 
of  our  thoroughbreds.  There  are  many  mixtures  that  are  just  as 
good  for  the  table  or  eggs,  as  any  thoroughbreds,  but  they  are  of  no 
value  otherwise.  There  are  many  pure  varieties  just  as  good  for 
market  and  eggs  as  any  mixture,  but  their  great  value  is  in  their 
purity  of  blood. 

ASIATICS. 

Probably  there  never  has  been  more  excitement  over  domestic 
poultry  than  there  was  in  England  on  the  first  introduction  of  the 
Cochin  China  or  Shanghai  fowl.  That  was  the  first  great  interest 
taken  in  domestic  poultry  for  fancy.  Many  acted  crazy  over  the 
new  variety, — which  was  to  make  such  a  revolution  in  the  poultry 
yards  in  England  and  America.  They  were  first  introduced  into 
England  about  the  year  1847  ;  were  brought  direct  from  Shanghai, 
China, — sent  by  the  British  Embassador  to  the  Queen  of  England. 
The  excitement  was  so  high,  that  men  paid  as  much  for  a  trio  as  is 
often  paid  for  a  farm  in  this  country.  One  hundred  dollars  was 
only  an  ordinary  price  for  a  cock  of  the  first  importation.  One 
brought  one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars.  Two  hundred  and  fifty 
dollars  for  a  trio  was  cheap.  For  several  years  the  prices  were 
very  high.  The  stock  was  known  only  as  Shanghai  or  Cochin 
China.  They  were  not  assorted  at  all,  but  bred  all  colors — white, 
black,  buff,  partridge,  gray,  brown,  and  drab, — one  as  good  as 
another.  It  was  several  years  before  fanciers  separated  them,  and 
bred  to  certain  colors  and  markings,  till  now  we  have  the  Part- 
ridge, Buff,  Black,  and  White  Cochins  ;  also  the  Brahmas.  (The 
Langshans  are  of  a  late  importation.)  Any  one  variety  is  a  great 
improvement  on  the  originals.  The  interest  awakened  at  that  time 
has  never  died  out,  but  has  left  the  domestic  poultry  in  a  better 
position  than  ever  before.  It  will  be  a  long  time  before  thorough- 
bred poultry  will  not  be  sought  after  and  highly  prized.  Ten  and 
fifteen  dollars  are  very  common  prices  now  for  a  fowl  of  good  blood. 


66  PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING. 

and  for  choice  specimens  as  high  as  one  hundred  dollars  is  often 
paid  for  individual  fowls.  These  remarks  as  to  prices  are  not  con- 
fined to  Asiatics,  but  apply  to  all  choice  thoroughbreds. 

The  general  characteristics  of  the  Asiatics  are  :  Broad  across  the 
chest  ;  high  from  breast-bone-»to  back-bone  ;  short  in  proportion  to 
breadth.  They  are  naturally  very  quiet,  and  are  easily  handled. 
They  are  slow,  awkward,  and  good  natured.  A  fence  three  feet 
high  will  keep  them.  They  are  hearty  and  hardy.  We  never  have 
any  trouble  \vith  the  chickens  after  they  once  get  squarely  on  their 
feet.  They  grow  very  fast,  and  are  tender  eating  till  grown,  when 
they  weigh — cocks,  from  ten  to  thirteen  pounds  ;  hens,  from  seven 
to  ten  pounds. 

COCHINS. 

The  Buff  Cochins  resemble  the  first  importation  more  than  any 
other.  It  may  be  a  cause  of  wonderment  that  there  should  be  so 
many  different  varieties  from  one  ;  but  it  is  not  strange  at  all. 
Fowls  not  bred  strictly  to  feather,  will  throw  all  sorts.  It  would 
be  strange  now  to  get  anything  like  a  black  or  white  fowl  from  the 
Buff  Cochins,  for  the  reason  that  they  have  been  so  long  bred 
strictly  to  the  buff  color.  In  that  case  they  take  back  a  number  of 
generations.  The  combs  of  all  Cochins  (except  the  Pea  Combed 
Partridge),  is  the  single  comb,  quite  small  ;  body  large  ;  legs  short 
and  stout,  with  feathers  down  to  the  tip  of  toes.  The  Buff  Cochin 
should  be  solid  buff  color,  both  cock  and  hen.  The  tail  feathers 
will  be  more  or  less  black, — the  less  the  better.  The 

PARTRIDGE   COCHIN 

has  a  solid  black-  breast,  with  black  wings  and  tail  ;  feathers  on  the 
legs  should  be  black.  The  neck  and  hackle  should  be  bright  red. 
The  hen  should  be  marked  much  like  the  wild  partridge,  each 
feather  worked  in  rings. 

The  White  Cochin  is  solid  white.  The  Black  Cochin  is  glossy 
black.  All  of  these  varieties  breed  true  to  color;  few  culls. 

BRAHMAS. 

There  are  only  two  varieties, — known  as  the  Light  and  Dark 
Brahmas.  I  think  I  may  safely  say  the  mantle  of  the  Old  Cochins, 
with  their  favor,  has  fallen  on  the  Light  Brahmas 

I  think  it  is  at  present  held  in  more  general  favor,  and  is  in  more 
yards  in  the  United  States,  in  full  or  part  blood,  than  any  other 
variety.  It  is  truly  a  majestic  bird,  and  if  well  marked  and  clean, 
a  handsome  fowl, — that  is,  when  grown.  From  the  time  it  is  four 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING.  67 

weeks  old  until  full  grown,  it  is  anything  but  handsome.  Unlike 
the  Cochins,  they  are  nearly  naked  all  summer,— long,  leggy,  and 
awkward.  Their  backs  are  bare, — many  times  sun-burnt  red.  All 
the  Brahmas  and  Pea-Combed  Partridge  Cochins  have  the  small 
pea  comb. 

LIGHT    BRAHMAS. 

The  Light  Brahma  cocks  and  hens  are  marked  alike.  The  gen- 
eral plumage  is  white,  which,  with  age  and  exposure  to  the  sum- 
mer sun,  sometimes  has  a  straw-colored  tinge  ;  neck  finely  penciled 
black  ;  wings  while  and  black  (only  the  white  shows) ;  tail  black, 
or  nearly  so  ;  feathers  on  the  legs,  to  tip  of  outside  toes,  white. 

DARK    BRAHMAS. 

The  cocks  have  solid  black  breast,  wings  and  tail  ;  finely  pen- 
ciled hackle.  The  hen  is  marked  much  like  the  Partridge  Cochin 
hen,  excepting  the  color  is  of  a  dark  grey  and  white.  The  Brah- 
mas, like  the  Cochins,  are  good  sitters, — too  much  so  for  general 
purposes.  They  are  tender  and  kind  mothers.  I  think  they  are 
too  heavy  for  sitters  on  eggs  of  light-weight  hens.  They  break 
too  many  eggs.  All  of  the  Asiatics  lay  a  buff-colored  egg, — some 
much  darker  than  others. 

LANGSHANS. 

First  found  in  Langshan,  China,  about  1872,  by  a  nephew  of 
Major  Croad,  of  the  British  army.  They  somewhat  resemble  the 
Black  Cochins,  and  buyers  must  be  careful  or  they  will  get  more 
Cochin  blood  than  they  pay  for.  They  have  longer  tails  than  the 
Cochins,  and  breeders  of  them  say  they  are  better  layers  and  table 
fowls.  (See  cut  on  title  page.) 

SPANISH. 

Under  the  head  of  Spanish  varieties,  the  American  Poultry  Asso- 
ciation has  classed  the  Black  Spanish,  Andilusian,  White,  Black, 
Brown,  and  Dominique  Leghorns.  The  Leghorns,  it  would  seem, 
should  be  classed  as  Italian  fowls,  as  they  came  from  that  country. 
Just  why  they  are  classed  as  Spanish,  we  can  not  say,  unless  it  is 
on  account  of  their  similarity.  They  all  have  high  single  combs, 
standing  straight  on  the  cocks,  but  falling  to  one  side  on  the  hens. 
They  are  all  very  trim,  proud  and  quick.  As  to  size,  they  come  in 
about  the  following  order:  Black  Spanish,  White,  Brown,  Dom- 
inique, and  Black  Leghorns  and  Andilusians,  aid  now  the  Min- 
orcas.  (See  illustration  on  another  page.)  They  are  all  great  lay- 
ers, laying  often  more  than  two  hundred  eggs  each  in  the  year,  if 
well  cared  for.  They  are  called  non-sitters.  They  do  not  want  to 


68  PRACTICAL   POULTRY   KEEPING. 

sit  much,  and  are  not  very  persistent,  but  if  left  alone  with  their 
eggs  in  their  nests,  will  sit,  but  are  uncertain,  easily  frightened, 
and  if  disturbed,  apt  to  leave  their  nests  entirely;  poor  mothers, 
— too  nervous.  They  all  lay  a  white  egg.  The 

BLACK    SPANISH 

lays  a  large  one.  They  lay  the  largest  of  any  hen,  unless  it  is  the 
Houdan  ;  larger  than  the  Brahmas  or  Cochins,  generally.  Two 
Black  Spanish  or  Houdan  eggs  are  larger  than  three  Polish  or 
Hamburgh  eggs. 

The  fowls  are  a  jet,  glossy  black,  with  high  combs  and  large 
wattles.  The  side  of  the  face  is  solid  white  ;  hence  they  are  often 
called  White-Faced  Black  Spanish.  This  white  grows  thick  and 
heavy  after  the  first  year  ;  quite  often  gathering  over  and  under  the 
eyes  so  heavily  as  to  almost  blind  them.  In  body  they  are  larger 
than  any  of  the  Leghorns.  Their  legs  are  of  a  dark  lead  color, 
almost  black,  and  their  meat  on  the  blue  tinge  ;  not  a  good  fowl 
for  the  table  or  market.  They  are  great  layers,  quite  often  laying 
themselves  to  death.  They  are,  of  course,  very  hearty,  and  make 
a  great  call  for  meat  and  bone.  This  is  natural  while  laying. 

And  just  here  comes  in  a  cause  for  a  great  drawback  in  the 
Spanish, — they  must  and  will  have  meat.  If  they  are  confined 
closely  and  do  not  have  a  good  supply,  they  will  pull  feathers  off 
each  other  and  themselves,  and  eat  them.  I  have  seen  some  closely 
confined  yards,  where  they  were  picked  nearlv  naked.  The  only 
real  remedy  is  to  give  the  fowls  good  range  and  plenty  of  meat. 
For  the  cold,  northern  sections,  they  are  rather  tender,  and  should 
be  well  protected  from  the  cold  winds.  If  there  is  such  a  variety 
as  White  Spanish,  it  is  not  generally  known. 

ANDILUSIANS. 

They  are  a  handsome  fowl,  of  the  slaty  blue  color,  with  a  darker 
hackle  ;  have  white  ear-lobes,  and  closely  resemble  the  Leghorns. 
They  are  of  about  the  size  of  the  Black  Leghorns.  Were  brought 
to  this  country  from  Andilusia,  Spain,  from  which  province  they 
take  their  name  ;  not  a  hardy  fowl. 

LEGHORNS. 

They  derive  their  name  from  the  City  of  Leghorn,  in  Italy,  from 
which  port  they  came.  We  first  hear  of  them  about  the  year  1852, 
in  England  and  America,  but  they  did  not  create  anything  of  the 
excitement  that  the  Cochins  did  on  their  advent,— so  that  days  and 
dates  are  not  so  definite. 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING.  69 

The  White,  Brown,  and  afterward  the  Dominique,  and  only  within 
a  few  years  the  Black  Leghorns  have  been  known  ;  the  Rose  Combed 
White  and  the  Rose  Combed  Brown  Leghorns  were  admitted  to  the 
Standard  in  1883,  probably  all  from  what  was  known  thirty  years  ago 
as  the  Red  Leghorn.  They  all  have  white  or  straw-colored  ear-lobes. 
With  the  exception  of  the  Black  Leghorns,  they  have  yellow  legs, 
and  are  great  layers,  of  white-shelled  eggs.  The 

WHITE   LEGHORNS 

lay  the  largest  egg.  They  stand  confinement  well  if  properly  cared 
for,  but  lay  best  with  a  good  range.  Like  the  Black  Spanish,  the 
high  comb  and  long  wattles  make  them  good  subjects  for  frost.  It 
is  hard  to  bring  them  through  the  winter  with  untouched  comb  and 
wattles.  They  must  net  be  allowed  to  run  out  in  the  cold  winds. 
They  will  stand  quite  cold  weather  if  in  a  room  where  the  air  is 
still.  The  basement  to  a  barn  furnishes  a  good  place  for  Leghorns 
and  Spanish  ;  or  a  small,  low  house,  well  banked  up,  and  covered 
with  dirt  or  straw.  Some  winter  them  in  their  cellars.  The 

BROWN   LEGHORNS 

are  marked  much  like  the  Black-Breasted  Red  Games.  The  cocks 
have  solid  black  breasts,  flight  feathers  and  tail  ;  bright  red  hackle 
and  body.  The  hens  are  a  penciled  brown.  The 

ROSE   COMBED   WHITE   LEGHORNS 

resemble  the  Single  Combed  White  Leghorns  in  every  way  except- 
ing comb.  That  is  like  the  Hamburghs'  comb.  The 

ROSE   COMBED    BROWN   LEGHORNS 

are  similar  to  the  Single  Combed  Brown  Leghorns,  excepting  in 
comb.  The 

DOMINIQUE   LEGHORNS 

are  similar  to  the  others  in  everything  excepting  color  of  the  body. 
The 

BLACK   LEGHORNS 

are  smaller  than  the  others.  Their  black  is  not  so  glossy  as  the 
Spanish.  It  is  not  a  desirable  variety.  Its  color,  size,  and  small 
eggs  are  against  it. 

FRENCH    FOWLS. 

There  are  three  general  varieties — the  Houdans,  LeFleche,  and 
Crevecceurs.  The 

HOUDAN 

is  by  far  the  most  popular.  They  are  good-sized  birds,  the  cocks 
weighing  from  five  to  six  pounds,  and  hens  from  four  and  a  half  to 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING.  71 

five  pounds.  They  have  a  heavy  beard  and  top-knot,  which  falls 
back,  in  front  of  which  there  is  a  V-shaped  comb.  Cocks  and  hens 
are  marked  alike.  The  plumage  is  speckled  black  and  white  ;  the 
black  predominating,  and  growing  lighter  colored  with  age.  Their 
legs  are  short  and  thick,  lead  color,  with  black  spots.  They  have 
five  toes  on  each  foot.  It  would  appear  that  this  breed  is  made  up 
of  the  Silver  Polish  and  one  of  the  Dorking  varieties.  I  have  seen 
the  Dorkings  crossed  with  different  breeds  of  fowls,  and  in  all  I 
never  yet  saw  a  chick  where  the  fifth  toe  was  left  off.  The  plumage 
is  much  like  the  Silver  Polish,  but  the  shape  of  body  is  more  of  the 
Dorking  variety.  Nothing  is  known  of  its  origin.  They  are  hardy 
fowls,  feather  early,  and  are  good  to  kill  at  any  age  ;  a  plump  and 
good  fowl  for  market  ;  the  skin  is  flesh  color  ;  they  are  great  layers, 
of  large,  white  eggs  ;  are  non-sitters,  great  foragers,  wandering  a 
long  way  from  their  roop  for  food.  There  is  a  great  difference  in 
fowls  in  this  respect.  In  a  country  of  hawks,  their  crest  is  against 
them.  They  combine  the  two  qualities  of  good  layers  and  good 
table  fowl  as  well  as  any  variety  that  I  know  of,  but  they  are  hard 
to  breed  to  feather.  A  good  proportion  of  the  chicks  will  be  faulty 
for  exhibition,  in  one  way  or  another.  As  to  the  fifth  toe,  it  is  of 
no  use  ;  is  in  the  way  ;  unsightly,  and  really  is  a  deformity,  which 
the  Standard  says  can  not  be  dispensed  with  in  a  good  Houdan. 


LE    FLECHE    FOWLS. > 


72  PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING. 

LE    FLECHE. 

Almost  a  French  edition  of  the  Black  Spanish,  which  fowl  it  re- 
sembles very  strongly,  excepting  in  comb.  It  has  two  spike-shaped 
prongs,  like  horns,  standing  straight  up.  These  three  breeds  are 
very  popular  in  France. 

CREVECCEUR. 

This  fowl  is  black,  about  the  size  of  the  Houdan,  with  small 
beard  and  crest.  It  is  of  solid  black  ;  good  layer  and  table  fowl. 
It  is  no  favorite  in  this  country,  and  but  little  bred  here. 


WHITE-CRESTED    WHITE    POLANDS. 

POLANDS. 

The  Polands,  like  the  Hamburghs,  arc  properly  classed  as  Fancy 
Poultry.  They  are  very  handsome,  but  tender  with  ordinary  treat- 
ment. They  cannot  hold  their  own  in  a  promiscuous  flock.  Bred 
by  themselves,  and  not  too  many  in  a  flock,  with  extra  care,  they 
are  brought  to  perfection  early,  and  are  a  reward  to  their  keeper. 

They  are  classed  as  White  Crested  Black,  White  Crested  White, 
Silver  Spangled  and  Golden  Spangled.  They  are  about  the  size  of 
White  Leghorns  ;  are  fair  layers  of  small,  white  eggs.  They  require 
extra  watching  in  times  of  rain  or  snow.  Their  crests  get  wet, 
which  keeps  their  heads  cold,  often  resulting  in  roup.  In  a  coun- 
try of  hawks  they  are  an  easy  prey,  as  they  can  not  see  their  enemy 
till  he  has  them  in  his  claws.  They  often  wander  off,  and  are  not 
able  to  find  their  way  back.  It  is  sometimes  necessary  to  clip  the 


PRACTICAL  POULTRY  KEEPING.        73 

feathers  which  hang  over  the  eyes.  The  one  who  wants  a  few  choice 
and  handsome  fowls,  and  can  give  them  a  little  extra  care,  will  find 
them  one  of  the  best  for  pleasure.  The 

WHITE   CRESTED    BLACK    POLANDS 

are  solid  black  with  a  heavy  white  crest,  dark  lead  colored  feet  ;  in 
the  cock  falling  over  on  all  sides  like  an  umbrella,  with  white  ear- 
lobes,  and  a  V-shaped  comb,  the  smaller  the  better,  even  to  no  comb 
at  all.  The  cocks  are  very  proud,  and  very  gallant.  It  is  hard  to 
get  the  heavy  white  crest,  with  every  feather  of  the  body  black. 
Some  of  the  wing  feathers  are  sometimes  tipped  with  white,  which 
is  a  damage  to  them.  The 

WHITE  CRESTED   WHITE   POLANDS 

require  about  the  same  description,  excepting  that  the  whole 
plumage  is  white,  and  the  crest  not  quite  so  large.  The 

GOLDEN   POLANDS 

are  red  and  black  spangled  fowls.  The  crest  of  this  variety  is 
smaller  than  that  of  any  other.  The 

SILVER   POLANDS 

are  black  and  white  spangled.  There  are  two  kinds — the  bearded, 
and  the  non-bearded.  (See  Cut.) 

The  origin  of  the  Polands  is  unknown.  There  are  no  more  in 
Poland  than  any  other  country.  Some  claim  that  they  get  their 
name  from  the  word  "  poll,"  signifying  a  crown. 

GAMES. 

What  is  said  on  this  subject  in  my  former  editions  has  received 
the  friendly  criticisms  of  some  of  our  game  fanciers,  and  as  I  am 
not  so  thoroughly  posted  as  though  I  had  made  this  variety  a  spec- 
ialty, I  have  solicited  the  assistance  of  Mr.  H.  P.  Clark,  a  game 
fancier  of  Wooster,  O.,  who  contributes  the  following  : 

"GAMES. 

The  games  of  America  may  be  divided  into  two  classes.  First — 
the  Original  Games  or  Fighting  Cocks.  Second— the  Standard  or 
Exhibition  Games. 

Birds  of  the  FIRST  CLASS  are  of  all  colors,  weighing  from  four 
to  eight  and  a  half  pounds. 

There  is  great  diversity  in  the  different  strains  :  Some  have  tas- 
sels or  crests,  others  muffs  or  beards  like  Houdans,  and  may  have 
single  combs,  rose  combs,  or  no  combs  at  all  ;  but  the  type  usually 


74        PRACTICAL  POULTRY  KEEPING. 

seen  may  be  described  as  of  single  comb,  medium  or  low  station 
and  heavily  feathered,  with  full  hackle  and  tail,  and  very  stout  and 
muscular  in  build. 

The  SECOND  CLASS  cdmprises  the  following  varieties  :  The 
BLACK  BREASTED  RED  COCK  has  black  breast,  tail,  thighs,  wing 
butts  and  wing  coverts,  elsewhere  a  brilliant  red. 

The  RED  PYLE  COCK  is  the  same  color  as  the  Black-Red,  sub- 
stituting white  where  the  latter  is  black. 

The  SILVER  DUCKWING  is  like  the  Black-Red,  except  being  white 
where  that  fowl  is  red. 

The  YELLOW  or  GOLDEN  DUCKWING  has  black  breast,  tail,  thighs, 
wing  butts  and  wing  coverts  ;  hackle  and  saddle  are  clear  straw 
color  ;  back  and  wing  bows  are  bright  copper  or  golden  color. 

The  other  three  varieties  of  this  class — WHITE,  BROWN-RED,  and 
BLACK — are  sufficiently  well  described  by  their  respective  names. 

These  varieties  were  formed  by  introducing  Malay  blood  into  the 
old  Pit  stock,  thus  producing  birds  very  different,  both  in  station 
and  general  make-up,  from  those  of  the  first  class,  and  also  lacking 
in  gameness.  They  are  very  short  in  feathers,  having  single  comb, 
which  in  cocks  is  closely  dubbed  ;  long  head,  neck  and  legs,  and 
are  very  upright  and  tall  ;  have  small  "  whip  tail,"  and  their  wings 
are  smaller,  and  folded  closely  against  the  body ;  are  very  trim  and 
neat  in  appearance,  and  beautiful  in  color,  of  whatever  shade.  The 
cocks  average  six  and  a  half  to  eight  pounds. 

Aside  from  their  stately  bearing  and  fine  symmetry — in  which 
points  games  excel  all  others — they  are  one  of  the  most  useful 
breeds  of  domestic  poultry.  To  the  farmer,  they  have  many  traits 
to  recommend  them.  In  the  first  place,  they  are  about  the  hardiest, 
and  most  free  from  disease  ;  then,  they  are  good  foragers,  and  so 
of  little  expense  to  feed  ;  are  excellent  layers,  and  have  the  very 
finest  quality  of  flesh.  They  are  the  only  fowl  which  can  defend 
their  young  from  rats,  cats,  hawks,  and  other  like  enemies. 

Games  have  a  reputation  of  being  very  quarrelsome,  but  this  is 
much  exaggerated,  as  well  bred  Pit  Games  are  not  more  so  than 
are  common  chickens.  They  are  not  bred  to  be  savage,  as  some 
persons  suppose  ;  for  if  this  were  so,  they  could  not  be  well  pitted, 
since  they  would  be  dangerous  to  their  handlers,  rather  than  to 
their  opponents.  They  must  be  courageous,  but  not  vicious  nor 
pugnacious. 

Game  cockerels,  when  about  five  months  old,  must  be  "dubbed." 
This  consists  in  removing  the  comb  and  wattles,  with  a  sharp  pair 
of  scissors. 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING.  75 

MALAYS. 

The  cock  is  very  tall,  has  a  peculiar  "nub"  comb,  and  small 
wattles;  long  head,  neck  and  legs;  rather  small,  drooping  tail; 
and  general  plumage  of  very  close,  hard  feathers.  The  cock  is  the 
same  color  as  the  Black  Red  Game  ;  hen  is  cinnamon  brown. 

THE  BLACK   SUMATRA. 
Black  lustrous  plumage,  small  pea  comb,  and  long  drooping  tail." 


BLACK  RED  GAMB  COCK— STANDARD.  BLACK-RED  GAME  COCK— PIT  FOWL. 

I  here  give  cuts  showing  the  difference  in  appearance  of  the 
Standard  or  Show  Bird,  and  the  Pit  Fowl— both  of  the  Black 
Breasted  Red  Game  variety — in  full  feather.  It  will  be  seen  that 
there  is  a  marked  contrast  in  the  figure  and  make-up  of  the  two 
classes.  The  Pit  fowl,  before  going  into  the  pit,  has  to  go  through 
a  special  training  and  trimming.  There  are  many  who  have  no 
idea  as  to  what  is  done  to  prepare  a  cock  for  the  pit.  Mr.  Clarke 
has,  at  my  request,  given  a  little  description,  which  will  be  of  in- 
terest to  my  re'aders.  He  says  : 

"  In  preparing  cocks  for  the  pit,  one  seeks  to  obtain  the  greatest 
amount  of  muscle,  hardness,  and  endurance,  together  with  the  least 
weight  of  flesh.  This  is  accomplished  by  continued  exercise  and 
special  feeding  for  a  space  of  about  two  weeks. 

"When  first  put  up  for  conditioning,  saw  off  the  cock's  spurs, 
leaving  on  each  leg  a  stub  of  ^  inch,  on  which  to  fasten  the  steel 
gaff.  Then,  just  before  the  fight,  the  bird  must  be  trimmed  or  "cut 
out."  To  do  this,  trim  off  the  long,  glossy  feathers  of  the  hackle 
and  saddle  ;  cut  short  the  soft,  fluffy  feathers  on  the  under  side  of 
the  body,  and  around  the  vent,  also  the  sickles  of  the  tail  ;  trim  the 
wings,  beginning  at  a  point  about  two  inches  from  the  tip  of  the 
longest  feathers,  and  cutting  straight  toward  the  middle  of  the  back; 
then  trim  the  main  tail  feathers,  leaving  them  about  five  inches  long. 

"There  are  seven  principal  styles  of  steel  spurs:  Regulation, 
Singleton,  Cincinnati,  Drop  Socket,  Half  Drop,  Thimble,  and 
Slasher.  These  are  in  length  from  i^  to  scinches.  The  standard 


76  PRACTICAL   POULTRY   KEEPING. 

gaff  is  of  Regulation  style,  the  blade  round,  one  and  a  quarter 
inches  long,  and  rising  in  an  even  curve  from  the  lower  rim  of  the 
socket  to  a  point  a  little  higher  than  the  upper  rim.  To  put  the 
gaff  on,  first  wrap  chamois  skin  or  old  kid  around  the  stub  of  the 
natural  spur, — wrap  on  enough  to  make  the  gaff  fit  tightly  ;  then  tie 
on  by  wrapping  stout  cord  or  "  wax  ends"  strongly  over  the  leath- 
ers around  the  cock's  leg.  If  the  gaffs  be  short  in  length,  set  the 
points  of  the  blades  well  in  between  the  cock's  legs  ;  if  long,  set 
wider. 

"In  the  pit,  cocks  are  matched  by  weight — give  or  take  two 
ounces ;  a  stag  or  a  blinker  cock  is  allowed  four  ounces  when 
pitted  against  a  perfect  cock,  but  are  matched  among  themselves 
the  same  as  other  birds." 


GAME    COCK. 

The  accompanying  cut  represents  a  Game  Cock  fitted  for  the  pit, 
trimmed  and  armed.  Perhaps  it  is  well  to  say,  His  pride  is  not  in 
his  beauty. 

HAMBURGHS. 

Originally  from  Holland,  as  their  name  would  indicate.  Silver 
Spangled,  Silver  Penciled,  Gold  Spangled,  Gold  Penciled,  White 
and  Black.  All  of  these  varieties  are  small,  light  of  body,  and 
require  a  high  fence.  For  eggs,  they  are  first,  and  will  excel  the 
Leghorns  under  favorable  conditions.  I  put  them  all  with  the  Po- 
lands  as  tender  varieties,  excepting  when  raised  alone  and  with  great 
care.  It  is  to  be  noticed  that  all  varieties  of  fowls  which  feather 
early,  require  extra  care  till  about  one-third  grown.  After  that,  they 
are  past  their  critical  period.  Their  eggs  are  small  and  white.  It  is 
a  very  rare  thing  for  them  to  want  to  sit, — laying  from  early  spring 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING.  77 

to  late  in  the  fall.  They  are  very  trim  and  graceful.  All  have  the 
white  ear-lobe  and  rose  comb,  which  stands  on  the  head  like  a 
crown.  The 

BLACK   HAMBURGH 

is  the  largest,  which  is  about  the  size  of  the  Brown  Leghorn.  It  is 
of  glossy  black.  The 

SILVER    SPANGLED   HAMBURGH 

has  white  feathers,  with  the  tip  of  each  one  black,  and  is  one  of  the 
handsomest  fowls  ever  kept.  The 

GOLDEN   SPANGLED   HAMBURGH 

is  marked  the  same,  with  the  exception  that  red  is  in  the  place  of 
white.  The 

SILVER    PENCILED    HAMBURGHS 

have  a  grayish  appearance,  with  black  tails.  They  resemble  the 
hawk  in  color.  They  are  often  called  Everlasting  Layers. 

The  legs  of  the  Black  Hamburgh  are  bluish  black  ;  of  the  White 
Hamburgh,  flesh  color.  All  the  rest  are  of  a  slaty  blue.  All  of  the 
fowls  are  very  ornamental — for  beauty  are  not  excelled. 

DORKINGS. 

We  have  accounts  of  five-toed  fowls  as  far  back  as  Ancient  Greece. 
Aristotle  mentions  them,  and  they  are  supposed,  by  good  authority, 
to  be  closely  related  to  our  now-day  Dorking  varieties.  They  are  an 
English  fowl,  taking  their  name  from  the  village  Dorking,  in  Sussex, 
England,  and  are  supposed  to  have  been  brought  to  that  country  by 
the  Romans.  They  were  first  imported  by  Hon.  L.  F.  Allen,  of 
Black  Rock,  N.  Y.,  in  1840.  There  are  three  varieties  :  Silver 
Gray,  Colored,  and  White.  They  all  have  five  toes,  and  are  a  good 
family  fowl  for  the  table  and  as  layers.  They  lay  a  large,  white  egg, 
and  make  good  mothers  ;  are  very  domestic  ;  naturally  tame.  The 

SILVER  GRAY   DORKING 

has  a  single  comb.  The  cock  has  a  solid  black  breast,  black  wings 
and  tail  ;  silvery  head,  hackle,  back  and  saddle  feathers.  The  hens 
are  of  a  grayish  brown.  The 

COLORED   DORKING 

is  marked  much  like  the  Silver  Gray,  but  of  darker  plumage,  and 
larger.  Either  the  single  or  rose  comb  is  admissible  in  the  Colored 
Dorkings.  The 

WHITE   DORKING 

is  solid  white,  and  has  a  rose  comb. 


PRACTICAL  POULTRY  KEEPING. 


AMERICAN    BREEDS. 

AMERICAN   DOMINIQUES. 

The  origin  of  this  fowl  is  unknown.  It  is  probably  one  which 
has  come  up  in  this  country  from  a  series  of  selections,  till  it  has 
produced  one  of  the  best  breeds  for  eggs  and  for  market.  It  is  of 
medium  size  ;  in  color,  of  a  bluish  gray,  mottled  ;  yellow  legs. 

PLYMOUTH    ROCKS. 

This  breed  of  fowls  is  one  of  great  popularity  in  this  country. 
There  has  been  quite  a  war  of  words  as  to  who  was  the  originator, 
but  this  much  is  pretty  well  settled  :  That  it  was  originated  in 
Massachusetts,  about  thirty-three  years  ago,  by  a  cross  between 
the  American  Dominique  and  the  Black  Java.  They  have  the  color 
of  the  former,  and  the  size  of  the  latter,  with  single  combs.  It  is 
required  that  they  have  yellow  legs  and  bills,  although  not  half  at 
the  present  time  have  legs  free  from  the  bronze  tinge.  It  will  take 
several  years  to  get  that  right.  They  are  large,  good  layers,  hardy, 
and  by  many  believed  to  be  the  fowl  for  all  purposes.  Some  strains 
of  Plymouth  Rocks  produce  cocks  of  much  lighter  color  than  hens 
(see  cut  of  Light  Colored  Plymouth  Rock  Cock),  and  no  black  pul- 
lets. Other  strains  produce  cocks  and  hens  of  the  same  shade  (see 
cut  of  trio  of  Plymouth  Rocks),  but  some  black  hens.  The  latter 
is  the  best,  as  it  is  easier  getting  exhibition  fowls,  but  for  market 
and  eggs  no  better.  After  a  few  years,  we  hope  there  will  be  no 
black  pullets  or  light  colored  cockerels. 

WYANDOTTES. 

Formerly  the  American  Seabrights.  Its  origin  is  unknown,  but 
is  supposed  to  be  a  cross  between  Silver  Spangled  Hamburghs  and 
Dark  Brahmas.  It  is  marked  much  like  the  Hamburghs,  and  nearly 
of  the  size  of  the  Brahmas  ;  rose  comb  ;  clean,  yellow  legs  ;  a  good 
fowl  for  eggs  and  table.  This  is  a  superior,  hardy  breed  of  fowls, 
and,  for  the  farmer,  compares  favorably  with  the  Plymouth  Rock. 
Since  admitted  to  the  standard,  in  1883,  there  has  been  a  greater 
call  for  Wyandottes  than  for  any  other  fowl. 

WHITE   WYANDOTTES. 

(See  description  under  head  of  New  Varieties.) 
MISCELLANEOUS    BREEDS. 

RUMPLESS. 

A  fowl  whose  great  and  only  peculiarity  is,  that  it  has  no  tail. 
It  throws  all  colors,  and  great  variation  in  size  and  weight.  It  is 


PRACTICAL  POULTRY    KEEPING.  79 

supposed  to  be  a  sport,  bred  to  points.  Those  who  breed  them 
recommend  them  highly.  It  quite  often  happens  that  chicks  will 
be  hatched  with  small  tails.  These,  if  bred  by  themselves,  will 
generally  produce  chicks  with  no  tails. 

FRIZZLIES. 

The  name  describes  a  breed  of  fowls  whose  feathers  turn  toward 
the  head.  An  odd  though  not  handsome  hen  ;  of  all  colors  ;  widely 
domesticated  in  Southern  Africa,  Java,  Sumatra,  and  the  Philippian 
Islands,  but  not  much  bred  in  America. 

BLACK   RUSSIANS. 

A  rare  fowl  in  this  country.     It  has  no  particular  merit. 

CREEPERS. 

Bred  more  in  England  than  in  this  country.  A  good  fowl  for  the 
table,  and  for  eggs,  and  as  a  mother  ;  has  very  short  legs, — in  many 
cases  not  over  two  inches  long.  Not  bred  to  any  particular  color. 

BANTAMS. 

Ths  Bantams  are  dwarf  varieties  of  the  ordinary  breeds  of  fowls. 
There  are  Bantams  of  most  of  the  Games  ;  also  of  the  Buff  Cochins, 
White  Crested  White  Polands,  and  others.  They  are  marked  like 
the  larger  fowls  of  which  they  are  bantams,  and  otherwise  like  them 
excepting  in  size.  The  main  point  is  to  get  them  as  small  as  pos- 
sible when  fully  grown.  It  is  not  uncommon  to  see  them  of  less 


SILVER   SEABRIGHT   BANTAM. 


80        PRACTICAL  POULTRY  KEEPING. 

than  a  pound's  weight.  The  eggs  should  not  be  set  early,  in  order 
that  the  cold  weather  of  the  fall  may  check  their  growth. 

Besides  these,  there  are,  distinctively,  the  Golden  Seabright,  and 
the  Silver  Seabright  Bantams.  They  take  their  name  from  Sir  John 
Seabright,  who  originated  the  breed.  The  markings  are,  respec- 
tively, orange  color  or  white,  with  the  outer  edge  and  tips  of  the 
feathers  black.  Rose  comb,  blue  legs.  They  are  very  proud  and 
gamey,  and  have  quite  a  strut.  The  head  and  tail  of  the  cock, 
when  standing  erect,  nearly  touch.  All  Bantams  are  bred  mainly 
for  their  beauty  and  oddity. 

There  are  also  three  varieties  of  Japan  Bantams  :  The  White, 
with  black  tails  ;  the  Black  ;  and  the  Gray. 

I  give  here  a  cut  of  Black  Japanese  Bantams,  loaned  me  by 
J.  D.  Nevins,  of  Philadelphia : 


BLACK    JAPANESE    BANTAMS. 

NEW    VARIETIES. 

Within  the  past  three  years,  other  varieties  have  appeared  which 
will  demand  recognition  in  the  American  Standard,  at  its  next  re- 
vision. Most  prominent  among  them  are  the 

WHITE    WYANDOTTES. 

This  variety  is  a  "sport"  from  the  Laced  Wyandottes.  It  has 
been  observed  that  in  not  a  few  yards  of  rather  light-colored  Laced 
Wyandottes,  there  would  now  and  then  appear  a  white  chick. 
I  know  of  one  yard,  which,  about  the  first  of  June,  had  produced 
twelve  of  them.  Some  breeders  have  preserved  all  these,  and  se- 
lected and  bred  from  them  with  great  care.  In  the  spring  of  1886, 
illustrations  of  the  fowl  were  given  in  some  of  the  poultry  papers. 
There  was  at  once  a  great  demand  for  the  fowls,  and  we  may  cal- 
culate on  quite  a  boom  of  this  variety  for  the  next  five  years. 

I  have  had  a  plate  made  of  a  trio  of  this  coming  variety,  espe- 
cially for  this  book.     It  is  a  good  representation. 
(Set  next  page.) 


82  PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING. 

WHITE   PLYMOUTH    ROCKS. 

These,  too,  first  came  into  public  notice  in  the  spring  of  1886. 
They  are  a  sport  from  the  "regulation"  Plymouth  Rocks,  and  re- 
semble them  in  everything  excepting  color,  which  is  pure  white, 
and  of  more  golden  color  of*  legs.  There  will  be  quite  a  demand 
for  these  fowls,  also ;  and  the  race  will  be  between  them  and  the 
White  Wyandottes. 

MINORCAS. 

There  are  two  varieties  of  this  branch  of  the  Spanish  family,  the 
Black  and  White.  They  were  like  all  the  other  Spanish  varieties 
first  imported  into  England  from  the  coast  of  the  Mediterranean. 
They  have  been  bred,  in  their  purity,  in  England,  for  the  past  fifty 
years,  and  the  Blacks  are  to-day  one  of  the  best  known  and  most 
popular  varieties  in  the  kingdom.  The  White  Minorcas  are  scarce. 

The  first  importation  of  Black  Minorcas  of  which  I  have  any 
knowledge,  was  made  by  Captain  R.  W.  Sargent,  of  the  steamship 
Indiana,  in  January,  1886.  The  first  White  Minorcas  were  brought 
by  same  steamer,  in  May,  1886,  by  Captain  R.  W.  Sargent,  J.  D. 
Nevius,  of  Philadelphia,  Pa.,  and  F.  A.  Mortiner. 

Mr.  J.  D.  Nevius  kindly  sends  me  the  accompanying  cut  of  the 
Black  Minorcas,  to  illustrate  the  variety  in  this  book  : 


Hi 

BLACK   MINORCAS. 

These  are  distinctively  Spanish  varieties,  in  appearance  and  char- 
acteristics. The  head  very  much  resembles  the  Black  Spanish,  with 
the  exception  of  the  white  face  of  the  latter.  The  face  of  the  Min- 
orcas is  red,  with  white  ear-lobes.  They  have  the  great  laying  char- 
acteristics of  the  other  Spanish  varieties. 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY   KEEPING.  83 


BRONZE  TURKEY   COCK, 

TURKEYS. 

This  fowl,  which  is  such  an  ornament  to  our  farm-yards,  and  so 
welcome  to  our  tables,  is  a  native  of  this  country.  It  was  first 
found  by  Cortez,  in  the  year  1519,  on  his  march  to  Cempoalla, 
Mexico,  which  he  describes  as  a  species  of  peacock  Prof.  Spencer 
F.  Baird,  in  his  work  on  the  birds  of  North  America,  says:  It  is 
reported  to  have  been  introduced  into  England  in  1541,  and  in  1573 
had  become  the  Christmas  fare  of  the  farmer  ;  that  the  first  one 
eaten  in  France  was  at  a  banquet  served  at  the  wedding  of  Charles 
IX.,  in  1570. 

The  American  turkey  was  found  wild  from  Mexico  to  Lower 
Canada,  but  not  on  the  west  side  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  ;  and 
when  Wm.  Penn  settled  Pennsylvania,  the  wild  turkeys  were  said 
to  be  so  large  and  fat  as  to  weigh,  in  some  cases,  fortv-six  pounds. 

The  wild  turkey  of  the  Northern  States  bears  a  close  resemblance 
to  our  domestic  Bronze  variety,  although  other  colors  are  found 
among  them.  It  has  a  more  lordly  style  of  carriage  ;  is  taller  and 
slimmer  ;  is  keener  and  shyer,  and  altogether  a  grander  bird  than 
our  domestic  varieties.  They  are  more  or  less  plentiful  in  the 
Western  States  at  the  present  time,  and  stray  flocks  from  the  farm- 
yards often  join  them,  which  is  one  cause  of  the  odd  colors  in  the 
wild  flocks.  They  are  easily  domesticated,  by  getting  the  eggs  from 
the  nests  and  hatching  with  farm  fowls.  The  wild  blood  adds  much 


84  PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING. 

to  our  tame  flocks.  It  gives  more  of  the  wild  air  and  hardiness  to 
our  birds,  besides  giving  the  flesh  a  wild  flavor.  The  wild  birds 
found  in  Mexico  are  larger,  shorter  legged,  and  show  signs  of  for- 
mer domestication.  -, 

By  careful  selections  and  good  breeding,  we  believe  we  can  pro- 
duce larger  specimens  than  are  found  in  the  wild  state.  A  Mrs. 
Lounsbury,  of  Connecticut,  in  1866,  sent  one,  not  quite  two  years 
old,  to  President  Johnson,  weighing  forty-seven  pounds.  Mr.  A. 
Johnson,  of  Pulaski,  Ky.,  under  sworn  statement,  killed  one  weigh- 
ing fifty-five  pounds.  A  slate  colored  turkey,  exhibited  at  the  Paris 
Exhibition,  weighed  forty-three  pounds. 

Of  our  domestic  turkeys  the  American  Standard  recognizes  six 
varieties,  which  have  been  produced  by  careful  selections  and 
breeding  :  The  Bronze,  Narragansett,  Black,  White,  Slate,  and  Buff. 
It  disqualifies  for  the  show-room  Bronze  turkeys  which  do  not  weigh 
twenty-five  pounds  and  sixteen  pounds — the  cock  and  hen  respec- 
tively ;  and  Narragansett  turkeys  must  weigh  twenty-five  and  fifteen 
pounds  ;  Black  turkeys  twenty  and  twelve  pounds  ;  White,  Buff, 
and  Slate  turkeys,  the  same  as  Black.  The 

BRONZE  TURKEY, 

by  introducing  wild  blood,  within  a  few  years  past,  is  the  largest, 
and  regarded  as  the  most  hardy,  and  in  other  ways  superior  to  the 
others.  Anything,  off  from  Bronze,  seems  to  indicate  weakness. 
The  gobbler  is  of  solid  bronze  plumage,  which,  when  fully  grown, 
reflects  a  beautiful  lustre.  It  has  white  spots  at  regular  distances 
in  the  wing  feathers,  and  the  tail  has  a  band  of  white  on  the  outer 
edge  when  spread.  The  hen  is  of  the  same  color,  excepting  that 
her  breast  is  slightly  mottled.  The  legs  are  dark,  nearly  black.  The 

NARRAGANSETT  TURKEY 

is  a  favorite  in  Rhode  Island,  where  the  variety  was  produced 
They  are  of  a  mixture  of  black  and  steel  gray.  The  body  of  the 
feather  is  black,  tipped  with  gray.  The  legs  are  a  deep  salmon  or 
brown  color.  The 

BLACK   TURKEY 

is  of   solid   black,  with  legs  of  a  dark,  lead  or  slate  color.     The 

WHITE   TURKEY 

is  of  solid  white,  with  the  legs  of  a  pinkish  or  flesh  color.     The 

SLATE   TURKEY 

has  a  plumage  of  an  ashy  blue  color  ;  legs  light  or  dark  blue.     The 

BUFF   TURKEY 

is  of  solid  buff  color,  with  legs  of  a  bluish-white  or  flesh  color. 


PRACTICAL  POULTRY  KEEPING.         8$ 


TOULOUSE   GEESE. 

GEESE. 

Of  the  Goose  we  have  a  history  further  back  than  of  any  other 
fowl.  They  are  mentioned  by  Homer  as  domestic  poultry,  and  were 
kept  at  the  capitol  at  Rome,  388  B.  C.,  as  sacred  to  Juno.  There 
are  three  varieties  of  prominence  :  The  Toulouse,  Embden  or  Bre- 
men, and  the  China  (Brown  and  White).  The  Egyptian  and  African 
are  not  much  kept  in  this  country.  The 

TOULOUSE   GOOSE 

is  a  large  gray  variety,  very  heavy  bodied  ;  when  fat,  almost  drag- 
ging on  the  ground.  They  are  sometimes  made  to  weigh  thirty  and 
thirty-five  pounds.  Many  prefer  this  to  all  others. 

EMBDEN    OR    BREMEN    GOOSE. 

A  large,  white  goose  from  Holland.  The  first  ever  brought  to 
this  country  were  imported  by  John  Giles,  of  Providence,  R.  I., 
and  Colonel  Samuel  Taques,  of  Medford,  Mass.,  some  sixty  years 
ago.  This  variety  is  preferred  by  many,  although  not  so  heavy  as 
the  Toulouse.  They  will  often  weigh  forty-five  and  fifty  pounds  to 
the  pair.  The 

CHINA    GOOSE 

has  a  large  knob  at  base  of  bill.     Very  noisy  ;    not  desirable.     The 

CANADA    OR   AMERICAN    WILD   GOOSE 

is  not  of    the  same  species   as  the  others.     They  will  cross  with 


86        PRACTICAL  POULTRY  KEEPING. 

other  varieties  for  one  generation  only.  The  eggs  of  a  half-Canada 
goose  will  never  hatch.  They  are  very  ornamental,  and  often  do- 
mesticated, but  do  not  lay  till  two  years  old. 

•DUCKS.   • 

The  principal  varieties  of  ducks  are  :  The  Rouin,  Pekin,  Ayles- 
bury,  and  Cayuga.  The  Muscovy,  Call,  Black  East  Indian,  and 
Crested  White,  are  much  their  inferiors,  and  but  little  bred  in  this 
country.  The 

ROUIN   DUCK 

closely  resembles  the  Wild  Mallard,  excepting  that  it  is  larger, 
which  is  supposed  to  have  been  brought  about  by  domestication. 
The  drake  is  much  handsomer  than  the  duck.  Its  head  and  neck 
are  of  a  lustrous  green,  with  a  ring  of  white  round  the  lower  part 
of  the  neck.  The  breast  is  a  rich  purplish  brown.  The  under  part 
of  body  and  sides,  a  beautiful  soft  gray  color.  The  tail  dark  brown 
or  black  ;  wings  brown  and  gray,  with  a  greenish-purple  bar  across 
them.  It  is  a  handsome  fowl.  The  duck  is  of  a  roan  color.  Each 
feather  is  penciled  with  gray  and  brown.  They  are  very  hardy  ;  do 
not  care  much  for  water  ;  are  easily  reared  in  the  home  yards,  same 
as  chickens,  and  are  good  layers  of  large  eggs  In  size  they  are 
about  the  same  as  Pekins,  weighing  from  twelve  to  eighteen  pounds. 

THE   PEKIN   DUCK 

has  had  a  great  run  for  the  past  thirteen  years,  and  is  still  the  gen- 
eral favorite.  It  was  first  brought  to  this  country  from  Pekin, 
China,  by  Mr.  James  E.  Palmer,  of  Stonington,  Conn.,  and  landed 
in  New  York  on  the  I4th  day  of  March,  1873.  They  are  pure  white, 
and  very  handsome  ;  hardy,  and  care  but  little  for  the  water  ;  good 
layers  ;  will  weigh  from  twelve  to  eighteen  pounds  to  the  pair. 
One  of  the  first  importation  laid  125  eggs  the  first  season  after  its 
arrival,  and  185  the  next.  Their  eggs  are  as  large  as  the  Rouins', 
and  they  make  a  good  table  fowl.  Mr.  Palmer  has  made  a  second 
importation.  The 

AYLESBURY   DUCK 

derives  its  name  from  the  town  Aylesbury,  England,  where  many- 
are  raised  every  year  for  the  London  market.  John  K.  Fowler,  a 
prominent  breeder  of  Aylesburys,  says:  "  It  is  not  uncommon  at 
all  to  see  around  one  small  cottage  2,000  ducklings,  and  it  is  com- 
puted that  upwards  of  20,000  pounds  per  annum  is  returned  to  the 
town  and  neighborhood  in  exchange."  They  are  prolific  layers, 
sometimes  laying  150  eggs  in  one  season.  They  will  weigh  from 
twelve  to  fifteen  pounds  to  the  pair. 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING.  87 

CAYUGA   DUCK. 

An  American  variety,  supposed  to  have  originated  near  Cayuga 
Lake,  N.  Y.,  by  a  cross  of  the  Wild  Black  or  Buenos  Ayres  duck 
and  the  Wild  Mallard,  but  nothing  certain  is  known.  Its  plumage 
is  black,  with  a  white  collar  around  its  neck.  It  is  a  profitable 
duck  ;  good  layer  ;  quiet  in  its  habits,  and  nearly  as  large  as  the 
Rouin. 

MUSCOVY    DUCK. 

The  name  is  given  to  this  fowl  on  account  of  the  musky  odor  of 
the  skin.  There  are  two  kinds  :  The  White,  and  the  Blue-Black 
and  White.  Another  peculiarity  is,  that  the  head  is  nearly  bare  of 
feathers,  and  its  red  face  gives  it  an  ugly  appearance.  The  drake 
is  much  larger  than  the  duck.  He  is  quarrelsome,  and  ugly  in  dis- 
position. They  are  good  on  the  wing  :  consequently  hard  to  confine. 
They  are  poor  layers,  and  not  very  good  eating  after  the  first  year; 
on  the  whole,  not  a  desirable  fowl. 

BLACK    EAST    INDIA   DUCK. 

A  small,  handsome,  black  variety.  The  name  does  not  indicate 
its  origin.  The  British  Zoological  Society  received  its  first  speci- 
mens from  Buenos  Ayres.  The  flesh  is  prized  very  highly.  They 
take  long  flights,  and  will  sometimes  stay  away  from  their  coops 
for  days. 

CALL   DUCKS 

are,  like  the  preceding,  a  small  variety.     There  are  two  kinds — the 
White,  and  the  Gray.     As  their  name  indicates,  they  are  very  noisy. 

CRESTED    WHITE. 

Is  a  duck  of  white  color,  with  a  heavy  crest  on  the  top  of  its  head. 

GUINEA    FOWLS. 

There  are  two  varieties  :  The  PEARL,  and  the  WHITE.  The  for- 
mer are  the  most  common.  They  are  natives  of  Africa.  Some 
poultrymen  raise  them  to  protect  their  poultry  from  hawks.  It  is 
claimed  they  will  not  disturb  a  yard  where  the  voice  of  the  Guinea 
owl  is  heard. 


PART  V. 
POULTRY  ENEMIES. 

The  depredations  of  the  chicken  thief — whether  man,  beast  or 
bird — sometimes  cause  a  great  deal  of  unpleasantness  in  the  family. 
I  have  not  words  to  express  my  contempt  for  the  person  who  will 
so  completely  put  himself  on  the  level  of  the  skunk  as  to  prowl 
round  his  neighbor's  outhouses  at  night,  and  carry  off  his  fowls. 
So  we  will  pass  him,  and  discuss  his  greatly  superior  fellow  trades- 
man, but  a  mean  and  sneaking,  ill  savored  thief — 

THE   SKUNK. 

Dark  and  rainy  nights  are  more  promising  for  the  appearance  of 
skunks  than  others.  They  are  very  bold,  and  would  be  social — if 
others  were  so  disposed.  They  prowl  around  nights,  eating  every 
sort  of  refuse  meat,  scraps,  etc.,  to  be  found.  These  not  handy, 
they  will  eat  the  chickens  in  their  coops,  never  carrying  anything 
away  with  them  ;  but  always  remembering  where  they  obtained  their 
last  meal,  will  be  quite  sure  to  come  to  the  same  place  on  the  next 
night, — which  makes  it  easy  to  trap  them.  A  steel  trap  set  in  the 
place  of  its  last  depredations,  will  quite  likely  hold  the  thief  in  the 
morning — and  the  catcher  must  explain  to  all  of  his  neighbors  what 
is  the  cause  of  all  this  unpleasantness  !  A  box-trap  is  best,  as  the 
skunk  will  not  be  offensive  till  hurt  or  frightened.  This  immersed 
in  water  till  the  animal  is  dead,  is  a  safe  and  easy  way  of  killing  it. 
In  a  locality  of  skunks,  the  chicks  should  be  shut  up  every  night. 
A  board  set  up  in  front  of  a  coop  will  generally  keep  them  out. 

THE   RAT. 

Rather  the  most  annoying  in  villages,  as  they  will  hide  under  any 
old  barn,  shed,  floor  or  wall,  from  which  they  will  make  their  raids, 
day  or  night,  and  prey  on  the  chickens  till  nearly  as  large  as  part- 
ridges. A  cat  which  can  be  trusted,  is  an  excellent  exterminator. 
Poison,  so  set  that  other  creatures  can  not  get  it,  is  about  as  good 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING.  89 

as  anything.     Either  the  coop  must  be  set  at  a  distance  from  their 
hiding-places,  or  war  must  be  waged  on  the  rats. 

THE   FOX. 

Where  chickens  or  turkeys  wander  a  long  way  from  home,  or  on 
back  farms,  the  fox  is  the  most  troublesome.  A  good  dog  and  gun 
are  the  best  arguments  to  convince  them  that  they  are  out  of  place. 

THE   WEASEL. 

A  dead  fowl  under  the  roost  in  the  morning,  is  the  only  evidence 
that  a  weasel  has  been  there.  It  works  by  crawling  on  the  roost, 
and  tapping  a  vein  and  sucking  the  blood.  One  of  my  correspond- 
ents says  he  killed  his  weasel  by  sprinkling  oil  of  anise  and  strych- 
nine on  a  piece  of  fresh  and  bloody  meat.  I  wrote  him,  asking  him 
what  was  the  good  of  the  oil  of  anise.  He  replied,  that  he  did  not 
know, — only  it  got  the  weasel. 

THE   HAWK. 

There  are  two  kinds — the  large  hen-hawk,  and  the  small  pigeon- 
hawk.  If  not  disturbed,  they  will  get  to  be  very  familiar,  and  never 
forget  where  the  chickens  ramble.  A  good  gun  is  recommended, 
but  it  is  hard  to  get  within  shooting  distance  of  them.  I  have  known 
a  steel  trap  with  a  dead  chicken  tied  on  for  bait,  to  catch  them. 

THE   OWL. 

Not  so  troublesome  as  it  is  handsome.  This  bird  always  comes 
around  in  the  night,  and  commonly  takes  chickens  which  roost  out 
in  trees.  The  owl  always  lights  before  it  attacks  a  fowl.  This  sug- 
gests the  steel-trap.  I  was  once  shown  a  trap  which  a  farmer  said 
was  sure,  and  in  which  he  caught  them.  Near  where  the  owl  ap- 
peared last,  he  erected  a  pole,  on  the  top  of  which  he  had  fastened 
a  steel-trap,  with  a  piece  of  chicken  as  bait.  The  chicken  was 
there  in  the  morning,  and  the  owl  was  there,  too  ! 
THE  COON. 

Not  our  colored  Southern  brother,  but  the  veritable  coon  of  the 
woods.  A  friend  of  mine  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  State  of  New 
York  said  to  me,  "When  you  get  out  your  next  edition,  you  must 
not  leave  out  the  Coon  from  the  list  of  poultry  enemies.  They  are 
the  worst  thieves  we  have.  They  will  come  in  the  hen-house,  or 
climb  up  the  side  of  the  barn,  run  along  on  the  roost,  and  catch  the 
fowls." 

We  should  think  they  could  be  easily  trapped,  if  they  are  obliged 
to  enter  the  house  by  a  certain  way,  but  have  never  heard  of  any 
certain  remedy. 


,  I* 


PART  VI. 
MISCELLANEOUS   SUBJECTS. 

RECIPES. 

CARBOLIC  ACID   OINTMENT. 

One  fluid  ounce,  or  one  tablespoonful,  of  acid  to  one  pound  of 
lard. 

Very  healing  and  cleansing.  Used  for  driving  vermin  from 
chickens  and  fowls. 

CARBOLIC   ACID   WASH. 

One  fluid  ounce  of  acid  to  one  gallon  of  water. 
Used   as  a   disinfectant   in  washing   roosts,   etc.,   for  cleansing 
against  disease  and  vermin. 

DOUGLASS   MIXTURE. 

Sulphate  of  Iron ^  pound. 

Sulphuric  Acid I       ounce. 

Water 2    gallons. 

This  added  to  the  drinking  water  of  all  fowls  and  chicks,  in  the 
proportion  of  one  teaspoonful  to  a  pint  of  water.  The  water  will 
assume  a  rusty  appearance,  but  that  is  immaterial.  This  serves  as 
a  bracing  tonic,  and  will,  in  a  measure,  guard  against  roup,  gapes, 
and  diseases  of  the  bowels.  It  is  especially  good  during  moulting 
season.  The  mixture  can  be  made  and  set  away  in  bottles  or  glass 
jars,  to  be  used  as  wanted. 

POULTRY   CONDITION  POWDERS. 

Pulverized  Ginger I  pound. 

Pulverized  Licorice  Root i  pound. 

Pulverized  Blood  Root I  pound. 

Pulverized  Flax  Seed i  pound. 

A  tablespoonful  of  this  every  other  day,  when  a  stimulant  is 
needed.  Should  be  given  in  the  spring,  and  during  moulting. 

STIMULANT. 

Ale  is  an  excellent  stimulant.  It  works  like  a-  charm  on 
chickens,  young  turkeys  and  fowls,  weak,  languid  and  wanting 
appetite.  They  readily  eat  bread  soaked  in  it ;  if  not,  then  open 
the  mouth  and  pour  down  a  quantity,  according  to  size  and  age. 


92 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING. 


TONICS. 

Lewis  Wright,  in  his  Illustrated  Book  of  Poultry,  recommends 
the  following  tonics : 


No.  i. 

Licorice 2  oz. 

Ginger 2  oz. 

Cayenne  Pepper i  oz. 

Anise  Seed. 1%.  oz. 

Pimento 2  oz. 

Sulphate  of  Iron I  oz. 

Powder  and  Mix. 

No.  3. 

Peruvian  Bark 2  oz. 

Citrate  of  Iron i  oz. 

Pimento 2  oz. 

Cayenne  Pepper I  oz. 

Gentian i  oz. 

Powder  and  Mix. 


No    2. 

Cassia  Bark I  ^  oz . 

Ginger 5      oz. 

Gentian ^  oz . 

Anise  Seed >£  oz. 

Carbonate  of  Iron 2      oz. 

Powder  and  Mix. 

No.  4. 

Cascarilla  Bark 2      oz. 

Anise  Seed ^  oz. 

Pimento I      oz. 

Malt  Dust 2      oz. 

Carbonate  of  Iron I      oz. 

Powder  and  Mix. 


No.  i — Best  for  sudden  colds.  No.  2 — For  cold  and  wet  weather, 
and  young  turkeys.  No.  3 — A  restorative  after  long  journeys,  ex- 
hibitions, etc.  No.  4 — Where  a  continuous  use  of  tonic  is  required 
for  general  debility,  and  the  like.  Only  enough  of  either  should  be 
used  to  give  the  food  a  slight  characteristic  taste. 

WATER-LIME   PAINT. 

Take  lime-water — the  stronger  the  better.  Add  salt  to  make 
quite  a  brine  of  it.  Mix  in  water-lime  to  consistency  of  paint. 
If  you  can  use  half  skim-milk  in  place  of  half  of  the  lime-water, 
it  will  add  body  and  durability  to  the  paint  Apply  with  white- 
wash brush. 

FALSE    NEST-EGGS. 

During  all  seasons  of  the  year,  and  especially  in  winter,  a  false 
nest-egg  is  better  than  a  real  one.  It  is  easily  whittled  from  a  large 
piece  of  chalk.  Or,  take  an  egg,  break  a  small  hole  in  both  ends, 
and  blow  the  contents  into  a  bowl  ;  then  fill  the  shell  with  plaster- 
of-paris,  and  turn  in  water.  It  will  harden,  and  be  very  solid. 

CARBOLIC   NEST-EGG. 

Mix  plaster-of-paris  in  the  form  of  an  egg,  and  when  dry,  drop  a 
little  carbolic  acid  on  it.  This  can  be  done  whenever  the  egg  loses 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING.  93 

its  peculiar,  acid  odor.  Such  an  egg  as  this  will  do  much  to  keep 
the  nests  and  hens  free  from  vermin.  It  will  not  freeze,  or  present 
any  inducement  for  the  hens  to  eat  eggs. 

TO   PICKLE   EGGS. 

During  the  summer,  eggs  bring  a  small  price, — perhaps  ten  or 
fifteen  cents  per  dozen.  If  they  can  be  preserved  till  winter,  when 
they  are  worth  thirty  or  forty  cents,  it  is  getting  a  big  percentage  on 
the  money  invested.  I  think  the  best  recipe  is  the  following : 

Lime 2    quarts. 

Salt  i      quart. 

Cream  Tartar 3  ounces. 

Boiling  Water  .8  gallons. 

Stir  well,  and  let  cool.  It  is  immaterial  whether  you  remove 
sediment  or  not,  after  about  two  weeks.  Drop  the  eggs,  as  gath- 
ered, in  the  pickle  (only  fresh  ones),  and  keep  covered  from  the 
light.  Eggs  will  keep  in  this  way  six  or  ten  months.  Another 
good  way,  when  they  are  to  be  kept  only  a  few  weeks,  is  to  pack 
them  in  salt,  and  keep  covered. 

HOW   TO    PACK   EGGS,    FOR    HATCHING. 

The  great  end  is  to  so  pack  them  that  they  will  reach  their  desti- 
nation safely,  and  hatch  as  well,  if  possible,  as  at  home.  Another 
consideraiion  is,  to  pack  them  as  light  as  possible,  as  the  express 
charges  depend  much  upon  the  weight.  There  are  different  ways 
of  packing,  but  I  believe  the  best  and  simplest  is,  to  wrap  each  egg 
in  paper,  and  pack  on  end  or  side,  with  bran  in  a  basket.  The  bran 
is  very  elastic,  and  if  placed  about  an  inch  deep  in  the  bottom,  and 
half  an  inch  on  the  sides,  and  one-quarter  inch  between  eggs  in  the 
same  layer,  they  will  carry  safely. 

I  have  had  no  trouble  sending  to  California,  and  they  hatch  well. 
After  well  packed,  a  cloth  cover  is  sewed  on,  or  a  thin  board  cover 
is  wired  on.  The  address  is  written  on  a  card  or  paper,  and  pasted 
or  sewed  on  the  cover.  There  should  be  printed  or  written  in  large 
letters,  words  to  this  effect  :  EGGS  FOR  HA  TCHING! 

TO   FATTEN    POULTRY. 

,Shut  the  fowl  in  a  coop  by  itself.  Keep  fresh  water  by  it.  Give 
cooked  food  three  times  a  day — as  early  in  the  morning  and  as  late 
at  night  as  it  will  eat.  Give  all  it  will  eat  up  clean.  Leave  none 
to  get  sour.  Hang  a  cloth  or  carpet  over  the  coop  for  two  or  three 


94  PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING. 

hours  after  each  meal.  The  fowls  keep  quiet  in  the  dark,  and 
fatten  faster.  Buckwheat,  Indian  meal  and  wheat  middlings  are 
good.  Let  all  food  be  cooked.  Give  a  little  green  food,  to  keep 
bowels  in  order.  In  short,— perfect  quiet,  warm  quarters,  and 
plenty  of  good  food.  The  following,  from  the  Iowa  Register,  should 
be  carefully  read  by  all  preparing  fowls  for  market : 

"  Generally  farmers  do  not  prepare  their  turkeys  in  a  proper  way 
for  market.  Neither  turkeys  nor  chickens  are  fit  to  eat  taken  right 
from  the  barn-yard  manure  pile,  nor  from  following  after  fattening 
cattle.  Fowls  partake  largely  of  the  food  they  eat,  in  taste  and  smell. 
This  is  well  illustrated  by  the  popularity  of  the  canvas-back  ducks 
in  the  neighborhood  of  Baltimore  and  Washington.  In  that  region 
there  is  a  large  quantity  of  wild  celery,  which  this  variety  of  ducks 
eats,  and  it  gives  their  flesh  that  peculiar  flavor  which  makes  them 
so  popular  with  the  lovers  of  canvas-back  ducks.  It  is  only  in  that 
particular  region,  or  in  other  places  where  the  wild  celery  grows, 
that  these  ducks  are  any  better  than  other  choice  kinds.  Turkeys, 
chickens,  geese  and  ducks,  can  have  their  flesh  flavored  with  celery, 
or  any  other  highly  flavored  articles  which  they  will  eat.  So  can 
they  be  flavored  with  the  droppings  of  cattle  and  other  domestic 
animals.  No  poultry,  for  ten  or  fifteen  days  before  being  killed, 
should  be  allowed  to  eat  anything  impure  in  taste  or  smell,  if  you 
would  have  delicious  eating. 

"  Some  time  before  taking  to  market,  all  turkeys  for  Christmas 
should  be  put  in  a  clean  enclosure,  and  fed  on  clean,  rich  food,  and 
pure  water  or  sweet  milk.  Then  they  would  be  fit  to  eat,  and  per- 
sons who  could  have  full  assurance  that  they  were  all  right,  could 
afford  to  pay  double  prices  for  them." 

DRESSING   AND    PACKING   POULTRY    FOR    MARKET. 

A  correspondent  of  the  Farm  and  Fireside  furnishes  the  following 
directions  for  preparing  poultry  for  market : 

"As  much,  if  not  more,  depends  upon  the  manner  of  killing 
poultry,  as  on  that  of  dressing  it,  to  have  it  fit  for  market.  Too 
much  caution  cannot  be  used  in  this  branch  of  the  business. 

"  The  French  mode  of  killing  we  think  far  the  best,  as  it  causes 
instant  death,  without  pain  or  disfigurement,  and  is  simply  done  by 
opening  the  beak  of  the  fowl,  and  with  a  sharp-pointed  and  narrow- 
bladed  knife,  making  an  incision  at  the  back  of  the  roof  of  the 
mouth,  which  will  divide  the  vertebrae,  and  cause  immediate  death, 
after  which  the  fowl  should  be  hung  up  by  the  legs  till  bleeding 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING. 


95 


ceases,  and  picked  while  warm.  The  flesh  presents  a  better  and 
more  natural  appearance  than  it  does  after  the  old-fashioned  way 
of  scalding.  Fowls  should  always  be  allowed  to  remain  in  their 
coops  without  food  at  least  twenty-four  hours  previous  to  being 
killed,  as  the  flesh  will  keep  longer,  and  present  a  better  appear- 
ance in  the  market. 

All  poultry  should  be  thoroughly  cooled  before  packing.  Then 
provide  boxes — for  they  are  preferable  to  barrels — and  place  a  layer 
of  rye  straw,  that  has  been  thoroughly  cleansed  from  dust,  on  the 
bottom.  Commence  packing  by  bending  the  head  under  the  body 


FIGURE    I. 

(see  figure  i) ;  then  lay  the  fowl  in  the  left-hand  corner,  with  the 
head  against  the  end  of  the  box,  and  the  back  up  ;  and  continue  in 
the  same  manner  until  the  row  is  filled.  Then  begin  the  second 
row  in  the  same  manner,  letting  the  head  of  the  bird  pass  up  be- 
tween the  two  adjoining  birds,  which  will  make  the  whole  solid  and 


firm.  (See  figure  2.)  In  packing  the  last  row,  reverse  the  order, 
placing  the  heads  against  the  end  of  the  box,  and  letting  the  feet 
pass  under  each  other,  and  fill  the  spaces  with  straw.  Over  this 
layer  place  enough  straw  to  prevent  the  next  layer  coming  in  con- 
tact with  it  ;  then  add  other  layers,  packed  in  the  same  manner, 
until  the  box  is  filled.  Care  should  be  taken  to  fill  the  box  full,  in 
order  to  prevent  any  disarrangement.  To  those  having  extra  fine 


96        PRACTICAL  POULTRY  KEEPING. 

poultry  to  send  to  market,  we  would  recommend  wrapping  each 
fowl  before  packing.  This  will  prevent  dust  and  straw  adhering  to 
it,  and  will  add  much  to  its  appearance.  The  box  should  have  the 
initials  of  the  consignor  ;  the  number  and  variety  of  contents  ;  as 
well  as  the  name  of  the  consignee,  marked  on  it." 

TO   FIT   FOWLS   FOR   EXHIBITION. 

When  competing  for  prizes,  the  fowls  are  put  in  light  and  tasty 
coops,  in  pairs  and  trios,  as  the  Society  may  direct.  The  coops  are 
generally  open  at  the  top  and  in  front,  with  exception  of  slats  ;  and 
a  slide-slat  or  two  in  front,  by  which  to  put  fowls  in  and  out.  This 
is  to  let  in  the  coop  as  much  light  as  possible,  that  the  fowls  may 
show  off  well.  Of  course,  the  first  point  is  to  get  superior  fowls. 
The  next  is,  to  have  them  appear  well.  The  cock  and  hen  should 
match  in  the  pen — that  is,  be  of  the  same  shade  of  coloring,  of 
proportionate  size,  and  about  the  same  age.  They  should  be  clean, 
and  their  feathers  smooth,  none  pulled  out,  especially  such  prom- 
inent ones  as  tail  or  wing  feathers.  Many  a  first-class  fowl  has 
given  up  his  medal  to  his  inferior,  for  the  reason  that  he  did  not 
show  up  well.  They  should  be  somewhat  used  to  the  coop,  and 
not  wild,  that  when  the  judge  takes  them  out  and  handles  them,  he 
can  get  at  their  true  merits,  and  that  they  may  act  natural . 

Fowls  designed  for  exhibition  should  be  put  in  clean  and  com- 
fortable apartments  by  themselves,  where  they  will  be  quiet  for  a 
week  or  two  before  the  exhibition.  If  necessary,  they  should  be 
washed,  and  allowed  good  time  to  dry,  in  clean  apartments.  For 
feed,  whole  grain  is  the  best.  Let  them  be  in  good  order,  and  not 
over-fat.  Sunflower  seeds  are  good  to  feed  them,  with  other  grain, 
for  two  weeks  before  exhibition,  but  they  have  to  learn  to  eat  them. 
If  sunflower  seeds  are  not  convenient,  give  the  hens  oil  meal  or 
cotton-seed  meal,  mixed  with  Indian  meal  and  wheat  middlings,  in 
the  proportion  of  one-fourth  oil  meal  to  three-fourths  other  meal, 
once  a  day.  This  tends  to  make  them  vigorous,  active,  and  hold 
up  their  heads  ;  feathers  shine  and  lie  smooth.  The  judge  will 
pass  upon  every  part  of  the  fowl — head,  comb,  legs,  wings,  tail, 
condition,  symmetry,  etc.  A  perfect  fowl  is  allowed  one  hundred 
points  of  excellence.  A  certain  number  of  points  will  be  allowed 
to  the  comb,  say  five  ;  a  certain  number,  say  seven,  to  wings  ;  and 
a  certain  number,  say  ten,  to  legs.  (With  different  kinds  of  fowls 
these  numbers  will  be  proportioned  differently.)  These  whole  num- 
bers added  together  make  one  hundred.  If  the  comb  be  defective, 
—perhaps  ill-shaped,  twisted  or  lopped,— one.  two  or  three  points 


PRACTICAL  POULTRY  KEEPING. 


will  be  taken  off,  according  to  the  seriousness  of  the  defect  ;  so 
with  all  parts.  The  points  of  excellence  left  for  each  fowl  are  then 
added  up,  and  the  one  whose  number  is  the  highest,  ranks  best. 
I  have  never  yet  heard  of  a  fowl  that  possessed  one  hundred  points. 
Many  good  fowls  fall  below  ninety.  It  is  a  superior  fowl  that  will 
score  ninety-five  points. 

Fowls  of  some  varieties,  that  will  score  ninety-eight  and  ninety- 
nine  points,  are  sold  now-a-days  for  seventy-five  and  one  hundred 
dollars  apiece.  There  is  need  of  great  care,  that  the  changes  of 
condition  of  the  fowl  to  the  coop,  and  at  liberty,  do  not  work 
against  his  health.  Many  a  good  fowl  is  lost  just  after  exhibition. 

CAPONS,  AND  HOW  PRODUCED. 

This  subject  is  receiving  more  attention  every  year,  and  the 
operation  of  caponizing  young  cockerels  is  practiced  in  some 
localities  to  quite  an  extent  ;  but  we  are  very  slow  and  backward 
yet.  There  is  no  reason  why  a  hundred  should  not  be  able  to  per- 
form this  change,  where  there  is  one  now.  The  demand  is  great. 
Every  large  town  furnishes  market  for  Capons,  at  nearly  double 
the  prices  paid  for  other  poultry  ;  and  we  believe  that  almost  every 
one  who  is  at  all  handy  with  his  fingers,  and  careful,  can  do  the 
work  successfully. 

In  our  fourth  edition,  we  gave  directions  for  the  operation.  One 
party,  after  buying  the  book,  and  working  from  the  directions,  wrote 
me,  asking  if  I  supposed  he  could  find  market  for  them,  —  that  he 
could  produce  thousands. 

The  right  age  at  which  to  perform  the  operation  is  at  three  or  four 
months.  The  young  bird  should  not  previously  have  been  allowed 
to  pay  any  attention  to  the  other  sex,  as  this  causes  the  organs  to 
grow,  and  so  makes  the  operation  more  difficult. 

Before  trying  on  a  live  fowl,  it  is  well  to  operate  on  a  dead  one, 
and  before  the  feathers  are  taken  off.  This  can  be  repeated  on  any 
number  of  chicks,  till  the  operator  gets  confidence  to  take  a  live 
one.  Next  select  a  fowl  intended  for  killing,  and  if  it  dies  in  the 
operation,  it  will  be  caused  by  bleeding  to  death,  which  will  not 
injure  it  for  cooking.  Two  persons  —  one  to  hold  the  fowl,  and  the 
other  to  operate  —  can  do  better  than  one  alone. 

Lay  the  fowl  on  side,  with  its  wings  drawn  over  its  back.  Re- 
move the  feathers  from  a  spot  about  the  size  of  a  dollar,  near  the 
hip  joint  and  on  a  line  between  the  shoulder  and  the  thigh  ;  next 
draw  the  skin  back  —  so  that  after  the  operation  it  will  cover  the 
wound  between  the  ribs—  and  make  an  incision  between  the  last 


98  PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING. 

two  ribs,  about  an  inch  and  a  half  long ;  between  these,  place  a 
spring,  previously  prepared  for  the  work,  which  will  hold  the  parts 
open  enough  to  allow  working  between  them.  Here  is  a  point 
where  slim  and  deft  fingers  are  most  needed.  Some  say  that,  with 
the  handle  of  a  teaspoon  and  a  pair  of  tweezers,  an  adept  person 
can  successfully  operate  ;  but  I  consider  instruments  made  espe- 
cially for  the  business  quite  convenient,  to  say  the  least.  With  the 
handle  of  a  spoon  push  the  intestines  to  one  side,  till  the  testicle  is 
visible,  enclosed  in  a  thin  skin  ;  with  a  sharp  hook  tear  open  this 
skin  ;  next  seize  the  testicle  with  a  pair  of  concave  forceps,  or  any 
other  instrument  with  which  we  can  pull  the  member  away  from  the 
back-bone.  Care  should  be  taken  not  to  rupture  the  blood  vessels 
near  the  organ,  or  injure  the  intestines.  Operate  on  the  other  tes- 
ticle in  the  same  manner.  Then  let  the  parts  back  to  their  normal 
position.  It  is  not  necessary  to  sew  up  the  skin,  as  it  is  loose  and 
will  grow  together. 

Previous  to  the  operation  the  fowl  should  not  be  fed  for  thirty-six 
hours,  that  the  intestines  may  be  empty.  After  the  operation,  feed 
lightly  for  a  few  days,  with  soft,  cooked  food.  Capons  will  grow 
till  a  year  and  a  half  old,  and  will  get  nearly  the  size  of  turkeys. 
Their  flesh  is  very  tender  and  sweet,  and  as  much  the  superior  of 
the  ordinary  fowl  as  the  flesh  of  a  steer  is  superior  to  that  of  a  bull. 

Some  are  deterred  from  trying  this  on  account  of  the  expense  of 
the  instruments.  I  would  recommend  that  a  person  of  small  and 
limber  fingers  practice  first  on  dead  fowls.  Follow  the  directions 
as  here  given  till  instruments  are  needed  ;  then  use  the  fingers,  and 
contrive  such  instruments  as  one  would  think  would  do  the  work. 
The  object  is  to  take  out  the  testicles.  That  done,  that  is  all  there  is 
of  it.  I  would  observe,  that  no  particle  of  either  testicle  must  be  left. 
If  there  is,  the  fowl  after  a  while  will  begin  to  crow, — which  will  be 
proof  positive  that  the  work  was  not  thorough.  This  fowl  is  what 
is  called  a  Slip. 

Slips  command  a  better  price  than  ordinary  fowls,  but  they  are 
not  Capons,  and  will  not  command  the  price  of  Capons. 

CROSS-BREEDING. 

When  fowls  are  kept  simply  for  eggs  and  market,  it  is  often  of 
great  advantage  to  cross  them.  This  often  adds  size  and  vitality, 
and  increases  egg  production.  Some,  however,  are  not  as  good  as 
either  parent  stock, — so  that  only  by  experimenting  can  we  know 
which  will  be  of  advantage  to  cross. 


PRACTICAL  POULTRY  KEEPING.        99 

A  fowl  is  often  called  for  with  the  size  of  the  Light  Brahmas,  and 
laying  qualities  of  the  White  Leghorns.  A  cross  between  these 
breeds  will  produce  a  white  fowl  not  quite  so  large  as  the  Brahmas, 
and  more  like  the  Leghorns  for  laying. 

A  Black  Spanish  cock  with  White  Leghorn  hens  will  produce  an 
excellent  laying  fowl.  The  cockerels  from  this  cross  will  be  marked 
solid  white,  with  flesh-colored  legs.  The  pullets  will  be  white, 
with  now  and  then  a  black  feather ;  the  legs  blue. 

A  cross  between  Plymouth  Rock  and  White  Leghorn  produces  a 
sl.ity  blue  fowl.  Cockerels  have  flesh-colored  legs  ;  pullets  have 
blue  legs.  They  somewhat  resemble  the  Andilusian  fowls.  I  do 
not  consider  them  equal  to  either  the  Plymouth  Rocks  or  White 
Leghorns. 

A  cross  of  Plymouth  Rock  and  Partridge  Cochin  very  much 
resembles  the  Plymouth  Rock.  It  has  bright  yellow  legs  ;  some 
chicks  have  clean  legs,  and  some  feathered  legs  ;  a  good  sized  fowl. 

A  Brown  Leghorn  and  Silver  Spangled  Hamburgh  shows  color 
of  the  Leghorn,  but  manner  of  marking  of  the  Hamburgh.  It 
much  resembles  the  Golden  Spangled  Hamburgh.  An  excellent 
variety  for  eggs,  and  more  hardy  than  the  Hamburghs,  pure. 

These  are  crosses  which  have  come  under  my  own  eye.  It  is 
interesting  to  see  how  the  blood  of  one  fowl  will  manifest  itself  in 
one  way,  and  the  blood  of  another  in  quite  a  different  way.  When 
two  markings  or  characteristics  clash,  the  weaker  must  give  way  to 
the  stronger,  unless  they  are  about  equally  strong.  The  Dorking 
varieties  crossed  with  others,  never  forget  to  put  on  the  fifth  toe, 
showing  that  it  is  a  characteristic  from  many  generations  back.  In 
the  cross  between  the  Black  Spanish  and  White  Leghorn,  I  was 
surprised  to  see  how  the  black  feathering  had  to  give  way  to  the 
white,  but  the  Spanish  held  on  to  the  blue  legs — never  a  yellow  leg. 
In  bringing  new  blood  into  any  yard,  the  chicks  want  to  be  watched 
carefully,  to  see  in  what  way  the  particular  cross  manifests  itself. 
If  to  the  detriment  of  the  parent  stock,  it  will  not  pay  to  let  it  go 
any  further. 

QUALITY   OF   EGGS. 

We  often  hear  it  stated  that  there  is  a  great  difference  in  the 
quality  of  eggs  of  different  breeds  of  fowls.  There  is  certainly  a 
great  difference  in  the  quality  of  eggs,  but  more  depends  on  the 
treatment  which  fowls  receive  than  on  blood.  We  know  well  that 
the  food  which  goes  to  make  the  egg — perhaps  within  twenty-four 
hours — must  carry  with  it,  to  some  extent,  its  own  inherent  qual- 


100  PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING. 

ities,  good  or  bad.  Not  only  does  our  own  judgment  tell  us  so, 
but  actual  experience  corroborates  the  fact.  If  we  will  feed  a  lay- 
ing hen  onions,  we  can  taste  them  quite  strongly  in  the  egg  ;  the 
same  as  milk  from  a  cow  that  is  fed  on  cabbages  or  turnips,  will 
taste  of  them.  So  it  is  plain  that  eggs  that  are  from  stale,  unhealthy 
or  rotten  food,  will  be  very  poor  eggs,  and  although  fresh,  will  be 
unhealthy  to  eat,  while  eggs  from  clean  grain  and  grass,  and  fresh 
meat,  with  pure  water,  will  be  of  much  better  quality. 

There  is  another  phase  in  which  the  assertion  that  there  is  a 
difference  in  eggs  is  true,  I  think.  We  know  that  cows  which  are 
noted  for  great  flow  of  milk,  are  also  noted  for  giving  poor  milk, — 
the  Ayrshires,  for  instance  ;  while  the  Jerseys  give  small  quantity, 
they  give  much  richer  milk.  Is  it,  then,  unreasonable  to  believe  that 
eggs  from  fowls, — say  the  Asiatics,  which  lay  only  twelve  or  twenty 
eggs  before  they  rest  a  week  or  ten  days,  are  richer  than  eggs  from 
fowls  such  as  the  Leghorn  and  Hamburgh  varieties,  which  will  lay 
forty  and  fifty  before  they  stop  ?  To  me  it  is  not.  But  when  a 
person  says  that  the  Leghorns,  or  any  one  variety,  lays  a  better  egg 
than  any  other  variety  of  fowls,  we  can  conclude  he  has  them  to 
sell.  However,  I  doubt  not  some  are  perfectly  honest  in  such  be- 
lief, but  I  think  they  are  mistaken. 

INCUBATORS. 

In  my  fourth  edition  I  said  on  this  subject,  "  I  receive  many  in- 
quiries like  these  :  '  What  do  you  think  of  them  ?'  and,  '  What  kind 
is  the  best  ?'  I  will  answer  both  of  these  questions  as  well  as  I  can. 
There  is  hardly  a  subject  that  I  dislike  to  discuss  as  I  do  this  one 
of  Incubators,  and  for  the  reason  that  I  fear-I  may  do  them  wrong. 
But  I  can  say  a  good  word  for  the  old  speckled  hen.  I  have  known 
her  a  long  time,  and  I  can  give  her  a  good  recommend  : 

ist,  She  is  cheap!  2d,  She  is  trusty  and  reliable!  3d,  She  will 
bring  off  a  large  percentage  of  chicks  !  If  as  much  can  be  said  of  In- 
cubators, they  can  be  pronounced  a  success. 

The  natural  course  is  for  the  hen  to  hatch  her  own  eggs,  and  care 
for  the  little  ones.  It  is  a  very  nice  thing  to  furnish  a  substitute. 
If  we  try  to  do  it,  we  must  get  something  that  is  cheaper  than  the 
time  of  the  hen,  or,  in  a  business  point  of  view,  we  fail.  And  sup- 
posing the  machine  to  hatch  every  egg  :  One  whose  capacity  is  one 
hundred  eggs,  costs  about  thirty-five  dollars  ;  and  after  chicks  are 
out,  they  have  no  mother,  and  require  much  attention  of  some  one. 
To  hatch  these  eggs  in  the  natural  way  would  take  the  time  of  eight 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY   KEEPING.  IOI 

hens,  which  would  cost  four  dollars  ;  and  they  will  mother  them  till 
they  need  no  mothers.  The  hens  will  then  lay  a  dozen  eggs,  and 
after  that  are  worth  six  dollars  in  market." 

Since  writing  the  above,  three  years  ago,  I  have  had  quite  an 
opportunity  to  observe  more  on  this  subject,  and  will,  for  the  lack 
of  room,  give  the  results,  without  many  explanations  : 

ist.  It  is  a  very  well  settled  fact  that  chickens  are  hatched  by 
Incubators  in  quite  large  numbers,  and  with  the  attention  of  a  good 
operator,  quite  a  fair  percentage  of  eggs  will  hatch  ;  but  I  wish  to 
be  understood  to  say,  that  this  is  with  a  well-made,  self-regulating 
machine,  and  operated  by  a  person  who  understands  it. 

2d.  There  are  well-made  machines  (some  more  simple  than  oth- 
ers), which  will  fall  into  the  hands  of  poor  operators,  and  not  pro- 
duce a  good  hatch.  The  result  will  be,  the  machine  is  condemned, 
whereas  it  is  not  at  fault. 

3d.  There  is  a  class  of  machines  which  are  made  on  right  prin- 
ciples ;  but  to  supply  the  demand  for  a  low-priced  Incubator,  the 
manufacturers  have  used  the  cheapest  and  poorest  materials,  and 
put  them  together  in  a  very  hasty  manner.  They  frequently  require 
more  or  less  fixing  up,  and  are  liable  to  fail  in  the  midst  of  a  hatch  ; 
and  at  the  best,  do  not  last  long. 

4th.  There  are  many  which  are  not  made  on  scientific  principles, 
and  can  not  be  made  to  hatch  well,  even  with  the  best  of  operators. 
They  are  downright  swindles  ;  and  here  I  wish  to  say,  that  the  sys- 
tem of  selling,  without  any  kind  of  a  warrant,  to  any  one  who  may 
order  it,  a  machine  which  requires  excellent  judgment  and  careful 
handling  and  very  patient  attention,  is  wrong.  It  opens  the  way  for 
all  sorts  of  frauds — in  the  name  of  Incubators — to  keep  up  a  pre- 
tentious rivalry  with  really  worthy  machines.  I  think  none  should 
be  sold  where  the  purchaser  can  not  afford  to  have  an  agent  come 
with  it,  set  it  up,  run  it  in  his  presence,  and  teach  him  to  do  so  ; 
and  the  company  should  agree  to  do  this,  and  warrant  the  machine, 
to  a  certain  extent.  A  person  who  cannot  rock  a  cradle  without 
turning  it  over,  will  order  an  Incubator,  and  then  handle  it  as  he 
would  a  fanning-mill,  cook  or  freeze  a  lot  of  eggs,  and — condemn 
the  machine  ! 

Hence  I  would  say — and  I  know  I  am  ahead  of  the  times — when 
the  Incubator  can  be  sold,  set  up  and  run,  on  the  same  conditions 
that  sewing-machines  are,  they  will  do  better  and  be  used  more. 
There  is  hardly  a  community  where  people  do  not  point  to  some 
idle  machine,  and  pronounce  Incubators  "  no  good."  It  will  be 
greatly  to  the  interest  of  the  manufacturers  and  the  public,  to  in- 


IO2  PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING. 

augurate  this  system,  and  give  the  genuine,  well-made,  self-regu- 
lating and  good  hatching  Incubators  a  boom.  The  demand  is  strong 
enough,  but  the  supply  and  terms  and  prices  are  poor. 

THE   HOME-MADE   INCUBATOR. 

There  are  many  who  like;  to  try  this  "hatching  by  steam,"  but 
can  not  afford,  or  their  demands  do  not  require,  so  expensive  a  ma- 
chine, and  therefore  desire  to  make  one  of  their  own.  This  may  do 
very  well  for  the  person  who  wishes  simply  to  try  it,  for  the  "fun 
of  it,"  but  they  are  very  rarely  profitable,  as  they  require  so  much 
attention,  watching  the  thermometer,  etc.  I  do  not  approve  of 
them  for  business.  It  must  be  understood  that  the  making  of  one 
is  a  very  particular  job,  and  demands  first-class  workmanship. 

In  my  fourth  edition  I  gave  directions  for  making,  as  I  do  below. 
Some  parties  have  written  me  that  they  could  not  make  them  work 
well  ;  others,  that  they  could.  Probably  all  depended  on  the  me- 
chanical tact  of  the  maker.  I  give  here  one  letter  which  I  received: 

Rix  MILLS,  Ohio,  May  29,  1885. 
Mr.  G.  M.   T.  Johnson,  Binghamton,  N.  Y.: 

DEAR  SIR  : — I  was  to  let  you  know  about  my  Incubator,  made 
according  to  the  directions  in  your  PRACTICAL  POULTRY  KEEPING. 
I  made  it  large  enough  for  twice  the  number  of  eggs,  which  is  400, 
and  put  in  two  No.  i  burner  lamps.  The  machine  was  put  in  a 
small  granary,  and  when  the  sun  came  out  hot,  it  run  the  mercury 
up  to  no^,  the  first  day  after  dinner  ;  and  three  times  after  that,  it 
run  up  to  108,  at  noon.  I  could  regulate  it  splendidly  at  night,  but 
not  in  the  daytime  without  considerable  trouble,  but  had  it  from 
98  to  105,  most  of  the  time  after  I  got  up  to  it.  I  did  not  get  much 
of  a  hatch  at  all  ;  but  I  could  not  expect  it  after  keeping  the  heat  so 
irregular.  But  after  all,  I  got  twenty-five  or  thirty  chicks,  and  they 
were  next  the  board,  on  the  outside.  So  that  would  show  that  it 
had  been  too  warm.  I  found  seventy  or  eighty  chicks  in  the  rest  of 
the  eggs  on  the  outer  edge,  and  they  were  dead  in  the  shell,  but 
looked  large  enough  to  commence  to  pick  through.  This  I  cannot 
understand.  I  hope  you  will  give  me  your  views  on  this  subject, — 
why,  after  being  ready  to  hatch,  they  should  then  die  in  the  shell. 
*  *  *  *  * 

Respectfully,  R.  E.  MOOREHEAD. 

I  am  of  the  opinion  that  the  cause  of  the  chicks  dying  in  the  shell 
was,  the  want  of  moisture.  I  think  this  party  did  pretty  well,  con- 
sidering the  changeable  temperature  of  the  room  in  which  his  ma- 
chine stood.  The  room  should  be  of  very  even  temperature.  I  am 
told  that  the  cellar  is  a  good  place  in  which  to  run  an  Incubator. 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING. 


103 


The  following  are  the  directions  for  making  the  Incubator,  as 
given  in  my  fourth  edition.  The  article  is  taken  from  the  Youths' 
Companion  : 

"Have  a  pine  case  made,  somewhat  like  a  common  wash-stand 
(see  figure  i),  without  the  inside  divisions. 


INCUBATOR  (CLOSED). 

"About  a  foot  from  the  floor  of  this  case,  place  brackets  like  those 
in  figure  2,  and  on  a  level  with  these  screw  a  strong  cleat  across  the 
back  of  the  case  inside.  These  are  to  support  the  tank.  The  tank 
should  be  made  of  galvanized  iron,  three  inches  deep,  and  other- 
wise proportioned  to  fit  exactly  within  the  case,  and  rest  upon  the 
brackets  and  cleat.  The  tank  should  have  a  top  or  cover  soldered 
on  when  it  is  made.  At  the  top  of  this  tank,  in  the  center,  should 
be  a  hole  an  inch  in  diameter,  with  a  rim  two  inches  high  ;  and  at 
the  bottom,  towards  one  end,  a  faucet  for  drawing  off  the  water. 

FIGURE  2. 


INSIDE   OF   INCUBATOR — FRONT   SECTION. 

(T— Tank.     L  C— Lamp-Closet.) 
When  the  tank  is  set  in  the  case,  fill  up  all  the  chinks  and  cracks 


104  PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING. 

between  the  edges  of  the  tank  and  the  case  with  plaster-of-paris, 
to  keep  all  fumes  of  the  lamp  from  the  eggs. 

"  Fill  the  tank  at  least  two  inches  deep  with  boiling  water.  To 
find  when  the  right  depth  is  acquired,  gauge  the  water  with  a  small 
stick.  Over  the  top  of  the,%tank  spread  fine  gravel,  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  thick  ;  over  this  lay  a  coarse  cotton  cloth.  Place  the  eggs  on 
the  cloth,  and  set  a  kerosene  safety-lamp  under  the  centre  of  the 
tank.  The  door  of  the  lamp-closet  must  have  four  holes  for  venti- 
lation :  otherwise  the  lamp  will  not  burn.  The  lamp-closet  is  the 
space  within  the  incubator,  under  the  tank.  Turn  the  eggs  carefully 
every  morning  and  evening,  and  after  turning,  sprinkle  them  with 
quite  warm  water.  Two  thermometers  should  be  kept  in  the  Incu- 
bator— one  half-way  between  the  centre  and  each  end.  The  average 
heat  should  be  one  hundred  and  five  degrees.  If  the  eggs  do  not 
warm  up  well,  lay  a  piece  of  coarse  carpet  over  them.  If  they  are 
too  warm,  take  out  the  lamp,  and  open  the  cover  for  a  few  minutes, 
but  do  not  let  the  eggs  get  chilled.  If  they  should  happen  to  get 
down  to  ninety-eight,  or  up  to  one  hundred  and  eight,  you  need  not 
think  the  eggs  are  spoiled.  They  will  stand  such  a  variation  once 
in  awhile;  but,  of  course,  a  uniform  temperature  of  one  hundred 
and  five  degrees  will  secure  more  chickens,  and  they  will  be  stronger 
and  more  lively.  In  just  such  an  Incubator  as  this  one  I  have  de- 
scribed, I  hatched  over  two  hundred  chickens  two  years  ago. 

"  For  those  who  are  ambitious  to  try  top  heat,  the  same  sort  of  a 
tank  is  required,  but  a  boiler  must  be  attached  at  the  side,  with  an 
upper  and  lower  pipe  for  circulation.  Any  plumber  can  attach  the 


TOP-HEAT  INCUBATOR — ON  TABLE. 

boiler ;  and  the  faucet  must  be  at  the  bottom  of  the  boiler,  on  one 
side.  The  drawers  containing  the  eggs  should  slide  beneath  this 
tank.  A  stand  for  the  lamp  should  be  screwed  to  one  end  of  the 
case,  in  such  a  position  as  to  bring  the  lamp  under  the  boiler. 
(See  picture.)  This  incubator  can  be  cooled  by  raising  the  lid, 
turning  down  the  lamp,  and  pulling  the  drawers  part  way  out. 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING.  IO5" 

"In  both  incubators,  while  the  eggs  are  hatching,  sprinkle  them 
two  or  three  times  with  quite  warm  water." 


FORM   OF   TANK. 

J.  M.  BAIN,  of  New  Concord,  Ohio,  says  :  Make  your  own  incu- 
bators ;  and  gives  long  directions  as  to  how  to  do  it,  and  adds  : 
"We  will  send  all  the  above  directions  and  information,  nicely 
bound,  for  two  dollars,  cost  price.  There  is  nothing  to  prevent 
your  making  hundreds  of  dollars  in, a  few  months  at  this  business." 

Without  this  book,  of  course,  the  information  as  to  how  to  build 
is  good  for  nothing.  Two  dollars  are  sent  him,  and  in  return  is 
received  a  little  pamphlet  of  26 pages  !  In  this  book  he  gives  direc- 
tions which  require  a  person's  attention  every  ten  or  fifteen  minutes, 
day  and  night,  for  three  weeks  ;  and  adds,  that  we  must  not  be  dis- 
couraged if  we  have  to  try  three  or  four  times  before  we  get  any 
chickens.  He  says  :  ' '  The  first  four  times  that  I  filled  the  incubator 
with  eggs,  I  raised  only  one  chicken  !"  That  is  encouraging,  in- 
deed !  Why  did  he  not  give  us  that  information  before  receiving 
the  two  dollars  ?  There  is  a  good  deal  more  of  nonsense  in  this 
two-dollar  book  of  twenty-six  pages,  but  I  cannot  afford  space  to 
notice  it,  further  than  to  caution  my  readers  against  a  first-class 
fraud. 

A   WORD   TO    BEGINNERS. 

I  am  often  in  receipt  of  letters  of  inquiry  from  those  contem- 
plating going  into  the  business  of  fine  poultry  breeding.  I  will 
answer  some  of  their  questions  here,  which  may  be  acceptable  to 
others : 

i.  Begin  with  only  one  variety,  You,  of  course,  want  to  breed 
for  success,  good  stock,  and  pure,  healthy  and  clean,  and  enjoy  the 
business.  Each  variety  of  fowls  needs  at  least  one  warm  and  com- 
modious building, — not  necessarily  large  ;  one  good  yard  ;  two  or 
three  separate  apartments  for  extra  cocks.  It  would  not  do  to  let 
your  business  depend  upon  the  life  of  one.  One  or  two  separate 
apartments  for  sitting  hens  and  young  chicks.  You  will  need  sep- 
arate apartments  for  the  larger  chickens,  that  they  may  not  pick  and 
fread  on  the  wee  ones.  It  is  often  the  case  that  in  the  fall  cockerels 
will  need  a  separate  yard  by  themselves,  that  they  may  not  worry 


106  PRACTICAL   POULTRY   KEEPING. 

the  hens  and  pullets.  I  make  it  a  practice  every  fall,  to  put  my 
cockerels  in  a  yard  by  themselves,  with  none  of  the  other  sex  to 
fight  over,  and  they  will  be  quiet  till  spring.  It  economizes  the 
yards.  But  it  will  not  do  to  bring  in  a  stranger.  The  others  will 
pitch  on  him,  and  soon  be  fighting  among  themselves.  The  happy 
family  is  then  broken  up.  If  you  have  only  one  variety,  you  do 
not  have  to  stand  so  strict  guard  against  mixing.  You  can,  at  will, 
give  the  fowls  the  range  of  the  yard.  You  can  raise  the  whole 
number  that  the  grounds  will  accommodate,  of  one  variety,  and 
cull  down  to  the  acceptable  birds,  and  in  the  fall  have  some  that 
you  can  be  proud  of.  With  two  or  three  varieties,  it  will  require 
a  good  deal  of  watching.  If  the  Houdan  cock  should  get  in  with 
the  Leghorns,  but  for  a  few  minutes  in  the  spring,  your  yard  would 
be  ruined  for  the  season,  and  your  labor  lost.  You  could  no  longer 
warrant  them.  Again,  the  number  of  chicks  will  be  divided  be- 
tween these  varieties,  and  when  you  come  to  cull  out  the  inferior 
ones,  you  will  find  you  have  net  one  good  yard  of  either  variety. 
The  cocks  will  get  to  fighting,  and  injure  each  other, — perhaps  your 
finest  specimens  ;  and  in  the  fall  when  you  come  to  look  over  your 
stock,  and  figure  up  the  first  cost  of  good  fowls  ;  your  expense  in 
building,  and  the  feed  ;  your  own  time  and  unpleasant  labor  fighting 
diseases,  etc. ;  and  then  when  you  look  at  your  few  good  birds,  you 
will  be  ready  to  sell  out.  With  one  variety,  you  can  at  the  end  of 
the  year  figure  up  the  loss  and  gain  ;  and  knowing  something  of 
the  duties,  you  can  tell  better  what  to  do  the  next  year,  and  your 
experience  will  suggest  many  things  that  will  help  you,  if  you 
should  wish  to  add  to  the  number  of  varieties. 

2.  Keep  only  good  stock.  It  pays  best.  It  will  take  a  number 
of  years — probably  longer  than  you  will  live — to  get  good  stock  from 
poor.  Like  produces  like.  It  is  better  to  get  good  stock  from 
reliable  breeders,  at  high  prices,  than  poor  stock  at  any  price  ;  but 
it  is  often  the  case  you  can  get  just  as  good  at  low  prices.  Bear  in 
mind  that  because  prices  are  high,  it  is  no  guaranty  that  the  stock 
is  good.  Let  the  man  of  whom  you  buy  be  a  reliable  breeder.  In 
selecting,  it  is  better  to  take  fowls  that  are  inferior,  and  culls  from 
first-class  birds,  than  to  take  first-class  birds  from  poor  quality  of 
fowls.  In  all  probability  the  chicks  will  take  back  to  the  original 
stock,  and  be  of  the  quality  of  the  line  from  which  they  sprang. 
One  year  I  bought  a  Houdan  cock  (a  fine  bird),  and  hens  equally  as 
good,  from  different  parties  ;  but  out  of  a  lot  of  fifty  chicks,  could 
not  get  five  good  ones.  They  evidently  took  back  to  the  parent 
stock.  I  also  sold  one  of  my  neighbors  some  of  my  Leghorns, 


PRACTICAL  POULTRY  KEEPING.        IO/ 

which  I  was  going  to  kill.  The  next  year  he  called  me  over  to  se- 
lect his  yard,  and  he  had  some  as  fine  as  I  had.  Blood  would  man- 
ifest itself. 

3.  Don't  be  afraid  to  use  the  hatchet,  and  as  early  as  the  case 
will  admit  of,  and  give  your  ground  to  the  good  stock.     They  will 
be  out  of  your  way.     They  are  worth  more  early  than  late,  and  will 
lessen  the  chances  of  disease.     With  some  fowls,  however,  it  is 
impossible  to  tell  what  are  good,  and  what  are  poor  chicks.     The 
Brahmas  will  be  awkward  and  poorly  feathered  till  nearly  a  year 
old.     With  Leghorns  and  other  small  varieties,  we  can  tell  at  four 
months  pretty  closely.     Kill  any  chicken  with  bad  comb,  crooked 
back,  wry  tail,  badly  colored  legs,  foreign  feathers,  general  weak- 
ness, bad   build,  or  any  other  defect  which  will   damage    it  as  a 
breeding  fowl. 

4.  If  you  have  a  good  strain  of  fowls,  and  wish  to  bring  in  new 
blood,  do  it  very  carefully.     Know  that  the  new  blood  is  all  right. 
It  is  not  best  to  kill  off  the  old  fowls  the  same  season,  but  breed 
some  of  them  by  themselves  that  year  :  in  case  the  new  cross  is  not 
a  satisfactory  one,  you  are  not  out  of  your  good  fowls.     It  is  well 
to  bring  in  new  blood  every  second  or  third  year.     See   that  the 
general  characteristics  of  the  breed  are  very  marked,  and  the  fowl 
a  strong  and  healthy  bird. 

5.  If  you  have  good  stock,  and  have  eggs  or  fowls  to  sell,  lay 
out  as  much  as  you  can  spare  in  printers'  ink.     It  pays  the  best  of 
anything.     In  advertising,  it  will   be   necessary  to   select   papers 
which  will   reach   the  class  of   people  who  will   be   interested   in 
poultry.     A  monthly  paper  is  better  than  a  weekly  of  the  same  cir- 
culation.    The  larger  the  circulation,  for  the  same  amount  of  money 
per  line,  the  better.     This  is  a  point  that  will  need  watching.     Some 
publishers  will  tell  the  truth  as  to  their  circulation,  but  others  will 
not.     In  getting  out  cards  or  circulars,  have  them  look  tasty.     The 
person  who  buys  poultry  at  high  prices  is  commonly  a  man  of  fine 
tastes,  and  the  manner  in  which  a  thing  is  presented   to  him   makes 
a  great  impression.     We  not  only  need  to  have  good  stock  for  sale, 
but  we  wish  to  inform  those  who  are  likely  to  buy,  and  we  need  to 
present  it  in  a  pleasing  way.     To  put  iu  as  few  words  as  possible 
the  most  essential   rules  for  a  beginner,  I  would  give  these  : 

Good  Stock  !      Work  !     Square  Dealing  !     Printers'  Ink  !     Now  ! 

6.  Is  there  room  for  more?     Yes;  but  at  the  top.     There  are 
more  than  enough  of  the  cheap  breeders.     They  live  long  enough 
to  send  out  some  very  poor  stock,  and  place  the  whole  business  in 
ill  repute,  but  they  die  young.     To  this  extent  the  business  of  fancy 


108  PRACTICAL   POULTRY    KEEPING. 

poultry-breeding  has  been  overdone,  and  three  of  every  four  who 
have  commenced,  after  losing  considerable  time  and  money,  have 
dropped  out.  The  trouble  with  the  most  of  those  who  have  come 
under  my  observation  has  been,  that  they  considered  it  too  easy 
and  light  ;  or  they  tried  too  many  varieties  at  once  ;  or  did  not  have 
stock  of  high  enough  order,  and  were  not  careful  enough  in  mating 
and  breeding  ;  or  they  were  afraid  to  advertise,  thinking  they  might 
lose  all ;  or  they  advertised  injudiciously — did  not,  for  the  money, 
reach  the  right  number,  nor  in  the  right  way,  If  one  will  commence 
cautiously  and  carefully  and  thoroughly,  and  not  lose  courage,  there 
is  a  good  chance  for  him,  and  a  hundred  more  !  They  cannot  hurt 
the  business.  The  dabsters  are  the  ones  who  do  that.  Purchasers 
after  being  once  gulled,  are  afraid  to  try  again.  They  are  not  afraid 
of  high  prices,  if  they  get  stock  of  their  money's  value. 

7.  Don't  expect  to  get  No.  one  or  two  fowls  for  No.  three  or 
four  price.  If  you  want  exhibition  birds,  say  so,  and  expect  to  get 
them  ;  but  there  are  many  fowls  that  are  from  the  same  stock  as 
the  exhibition  birds,  which  will  be  better  for  breeders,  and  prices 
not  so  high  ;  and  stock  of  a  still  lower  grade  will  demand  prices 
accordingly.  Poultry  breeders  are  often  censured  unjustly  by  par- 
ties who  expect  to  buy  first  quality  fowls  at  farm  prices. 


LIGHT   COLORED   PLYMOUTH    ROCK   COCK. 


PRACTICAL   POULTRY   KEEPING.  ICX) 


FRAUDULENT  PRACTICES  AMONG  POULTRYMEN. 

It  is  a  very  lamentable  fact,  but  a  fact  nevertheless,  that  a  class  of 
men  are  dealing  in  poultry,  incubators  and  supplies,  who,  with  the 
aid  of  poultry  papers  in  which  they  advertise,  and  by  which  means 
they  carry  on  their  nefarious  business,  should  be  making  baskets 
behind  the  bars  of  a  State  prison. 

It  is  a  great  detriment  to  honest  dealers  that  there  are  a  few  who, 
having  no  regard  for  honor,  are  placing  before  the  public  the  most 
attractive  advertisements,  with  false  representations  of  their  stock, 
and  after  the  money  is  safely  pocketed,  send  out  eggs  of  very  in- 
ferior stock,  or  eggs  of  stock  not  ordered,  and  of  no  merit,  or  fowls 
good  for  nothing. 

The  crime  is  still  more  aggravating  when  we  come  to  know  that 
these  "schuysters"  are  either  in  secret  compact  with  the  publish- 
ers of  papers  who  present  their  advertisements,  which  they  know  to 
be  false,  or  are  paid  by  way  of  receiving  pay  for  large  advertise- 
ments for  keeping  still,  and  letting  them  do  the  fleecing.  Probably 
more  of  the  latter.  All  amounts  to  the  same. 

I  was,  in  the  Summer  of  1886,  talking  with  one  of  the  poultry 
dealers  of  this  city,  who  has  done  a  very  wide  business  with  Wyan- 
dottes  as  a  specialty,  and  who  is  represented  very  generally  by  those 
who  have  suffered  as  an  arrant  cheat,  I  told  him  a  pany  who  had 
bought  White  Wyandotte  eggs  of  him,  and  had  obtained  black, 
brown,  striped  and  feather-legged  chickens,  was  going  to  publish 
him  in  the  poultry  papers.  He  laughed  at  the  idea,  and  said  he 
could  not  do  it  ;  he  himself  knew  how  that  was,  and  I  was  quite 
ready  to  believe  him,  as  I  knew  of  several  who  had  written  to 
the  publisher  of  the  Poultry  World,  a  paper  in  which  Mr.  Preston 
had  advertised  extensively,  but  no  notice  was  taken  of  it.  I  men- 
tion this  case  as  one  which  seems  to  illustrate  the  way  in  which  a 
poultry  paper  and  an  advertiser  will  go  "  snooks." 

The  Incubator  frauds  are  another  "tough"  class,  and  honest 
dealers  suffer  from  them  the  same  as  honest  poultry  men  do  from 
the  practices  of  cheats  in  their  line.  H.  S.  Waldo,  of  Quincy,  111., 
carried  on  his  business  of  advertising  in  the  poultry  papers  his  '  'cheap 
and  perfect  "  Incubator.  The  poultry  papers  continued  publishing 
his  advertisement,  and  after  knowing  what  it  was,  until  the  United 
States  Postal  Department  took  the  matter  in  hand,  and  forbid  the 
deliver)'  of  his  mail  to  him.  Then  the  poultry  papers,  after  the  man 
was  down,  and  they  had  gathered  in  the  ducets,  were  ready  to  step 
on  him.  "  Such  a  fraud  you  know." 


I  10  PRACTICAL   POULTRY   KEEPING. 

J.  M.  Bain,  New  Concord,  Ohio,  has  a  very  innocent  appearing 
way  of  working  the  public.  The  first  act  consists  of  an  article  mailed 
at  some  distant  place,  perhaps  in  Michigan  or  North  Carolina,  pub- 
lished in  the  Agricultural  -Department  of  some  prominent  paper, 
giving  an  account  of  what  money  was  made  by  a  party  in  that  place 
by  hatching  chickens  in  an  incubator,  and  that  a  home-made  one, 
costing  less  than  five  dollars,  in  which  could  be  hatched  over  two 
hundred  chickens  at  once.  At  the  close  of  the  article,  which  was 
inserted  free,  but  which  if  paid  for  as  an  advertisement  would  have 
cost  from  fifty  to  two  hundred  dollars,  he  informs  the  readers  that 
the  incubator  was  made  from  plans  sent  to  any  address  by  applying, 
with  stamp,  to  J.  M.  Bain,  New  Concord,  Ohio.  On  sending  the 
stamp  a  large  circular  is  received,  giving  full  directions  for  working 
the  incubator.  At  the  close  Mr.  Bain  informs  the  reader  that  for 
two  dollars  he  will  send  a  book  giving  full  information  as  to  how 
to  manage  it.  On  sending  the  two  dollars,  is  received  a  little  pamph- 
let of  26  pages,  of  about  the  size  of  a  postal  card,  coarse  print,  on 
coarse  news  paper.  With  my  experience  in  printing,  I  should  say 
these  two  dollar  books  would  cost  not  to  exceed  twenty-five  cents 
per  hundred.  The  contents  are  the  worse  part  of  it,  and  amount  to 
simply  this  :  "  Sit  by  the  machine  night  and  day,  turning  up  and 
down  the  wick  of  the  lamp  as  the  thermometer  indicates  necessary, 
for  three  weeks."  He  then  informs  the  readers  that  they  should 
not  be  discouraged  if  they  get  no  chicks.  Mr.  Bain  has  often  been 
published  as  a  fraud,  still  he  plays  his  tricks  on  an  innocent  paper 
now  and  then. 

A.  M.  Lang,  Covedale,  Ky.,  publishes  a  little  25  cent  poultry 
book.  All  that  is  truly  valuable  he  has  taken  from  other  books, 
almost  word  for  word,  in  long  paragraphs,  and  between  these  he 
sandwiches  in  his  offer  to  send  receipts  for  making  cholera,  roupe, 
paracite  and  gape  remedy,  all  for  two  dollars.  In  all  probability 
much  the  same  as  some  receipts  printed  in  this  book — free. 

These  are  only  samples  from  a  large  flock  of  feathery  frauds, 
given  to  show  my  readers  the  character  of  the  class. 

But  all  poultry  dealers  must  not  be  put  down  as  of  this  sort. 
There  are  many  as  conscientious  men  and  women  in  this  business 
as  is  found  among  the  foreign  missionaries,  and  they  will  do  their 
customers  justice  if  they  can. 

It  is  sometimes  a  question  whether  there  is  anything  especially 
demoralizing  about  the  "  hen  business,"  or  whether  the  already  de- 
praved of  heart  take  to  it  as  an  excellent  opportunity  to  give  their 
natural  depravity  good  play.  Certain  it  is  they  are  there,  and  lively 
workers  too,  but  just  how  far  honest  dealers  must  suffer  from  them 
remains  more  with  the  publishers  of  poultry  papers  to  say  than  any 
other  class.  I  am  persuaded  that  in  this  business  the  same  as  in 
every  other,  one-half  of  the  world  must  carry  the  other  half  on  its 
back. 


1. 

PAGES. 

POULTRY  HOUSES  AND  YARDS 7  to  24 

Selection  of  Site 8 

Houses,  large  and  small 1 1 

Small  houses 12 

Large  houses 15 

For  Laying  and  Sitting  hens 18  to  19 

House  in  side  hill 21 

Warmed  by  fire 22 

Dampness 8 

Doors    10 

Drinking  vessels 111034 

Covered  Runs , 23 

Coops 24 

Feed  Boxes 11,23,24 

Fences 22 

Floors 9 

-Grass  Runs 23,41 

Nests 10,  14,  27 

Roosts 10,  14,  17 

Roofs 15 

Ventilation 9 

Windows ...  n 

:P^.:R,T  2. 

GENERAL  CARE  FOR  FOWLS 25  to  44 

Care  for  Laying  Hens 25 

"     "    Sitting  Hens  and  Eggs 30,31,33 

"     "    Chickens,  Young  Turkeys  and  Ducks j  3I»  33>  34, 

To  make  Hens  lay 35 

To  keep  Hens  from  Laying 36 

To  stop  Hens  Sitting ...  36 

To  induce  Hens  to  Sit 36 

To  mark  Fowls 36 

Mating  Fowls  for  Breeding 37 

Mating  Fowls  for  Eggs 39 

"     Flesh 39 

Ducks 41 

Geese 40 

Turkeys 40 

How  many  Hens  with  one  Cock 37 

Eggs  that  will  produce  Cockerels  or  Pullets — how  to  tell  39 


112  INDEX. 


In  Breeding  ........................................  37 

Good  Crosses  ...    ..................................  39,  40 

Protection  from  Rain  .......................             .  34 

Too  many  on  one  ground  .........................    .  .  34,  35 

Cull  out  ................  %  ..........................  35 

Early  or  Late  .......................................  35 

EGGS- 

HOW  far  can  Eggs  carry  and  hatch  ...................  31,  32 

During  Incubation  ................................  31 

Infertility  .........  *  ................................  32,37 

Ducks  .............................    ............  41 

Duck  Eggs  under  a  Hen  ...........................  43 

Ducks  eating  young  Chickens  .....................  \  .  43 

Geese  ..........................................  40 

To  Pick  Ducks  and  Geese  ...........................  43 

FEED  AND  FEEDING  ........................  27 

Feeding  Chicks  and  Turkeys  ........................  33 

Corn  ...............................................  28 

Cracked  Corn  .....................................  33 

Buckwheat  .........    ...........................  28 

Bread  and  Milk  ....................................  33,  41 

Grass  .............................  ...............  41 

Meat  ..............................................  41 

Musty  Grain  ...................................... 

Meal  ..................  ,  ..........................      28,  34,  40 

Sour  Milk  .......................................  4° 

Water  .............................................  29 

Wheat  ............................................  28 

Wheat  Middlings  ................................  40 

Hard  Boiled  Eggs  .................................  33 


3. 

DISEASES  AND  REMEDIES  ....................  44  to  61 

Of  Accident  and  Mismanagement  ....................  45 

Of  Carelessness  and  Cussedness  ..................  47 

Three  causes  of  Disease  .............................  49 

Apoplexy  ...............  .........................  61 

Bad  Feathers  .....................................  61 

Canker  ........................................  60 

Catarrh  ...........................................  54 

Cholera  ............  ................................  49,  56,  57 

Remedy  for  ...............................  57-  59,  60 

Crop  Bound  .......................................  61 

Diarrhoea  .........................................  60 

Egg  Eating  .........................................  28,  30 

Feather  Eating  ....................................  28,  29,  68 

Frost  Bites  ......................................  61 


INDEX.  113 


PAGE. 

Gapes  ..................  .  ..........................  49 

Inflamed  Eyes  .....................................  54 

Lice  .............................................  49.52 

"    Remedy  .....................................  53.54 

Lice  on  Stock  ......................................  52 

Mites  ...........................................  49,52,53 

Parasites  .......    ..................................  49 

Pustulated  Nostrils  ................................  54 

Roupe  ...........................................  49.54 

"     Remedy  .............  ........................  54,55,56 

Scurvy  Legs  ......................................  52 

Soft  Shells  ............................   ..........  61 

Sore  Heads  ....................    ...................  54 

Sore  Throat  ........................................  54 

Swelled  Head  .....................................  54 

Vermin  ...................................   .......  8,  27,  33,  52 

Worms  ............................................  61 


DIFFERENT  BREEDS  .................................  63  to  87 

What  is  a  Pure  Bred  Fowl  .........................  63 

Crosses  ...................    .......................  67 

Dunghills  .........................................  64 

Thoroughbreds  .....................................  64 

Asiatics  .........................................  65 

Brahmas  ...........................................  66 

Light  Brahmas  ...................................  66,  67 

Dark  Brahmas  ...................................  66,67 

Cochins  ...........................................  66 

Buff  Cochins  ......................................  66 

Black  Cochins  ......................................  66 

White  Cochins  ....................................  66 

Partridge  Cochins  ...........    ....................  66 

Pea  Combed  Partridge  Cochins  .........  .  ............  66,  67 

Langshans  .......................................  67 

Games  .......................................  -----  73 

Standard  Games  ..................................  73 

Pit  Games  ........................................  73 

Black  Breasted  Red  Games  ...........  ..............  69,  74 

Silver  Duck-wing  Games  ............................  74 

Golden  or  Yellow  Duck-wing  .....................  74 

Red  Pyle  Games  ...................................  74 

White  Games.    ..................................  74 

Brown  Breasted  Red  Games  ...............  .  .........  74 

Black  Games  .......................................  74 

Malays  .......  ..................................   .  75 

Black  Sumatras  .....................................  75 

Dubbing  Game  Cocks    .............................  74 

Pit,  preparing  Fowls  for  it  ..........................  75 

Steel  Spurs  ........................................  75 


1 14  INDEX. 


FRENCH  FOWLS 


Creve  Cocur. . . . 

Houdans  

Houdan  Eggs. . . 
LeFleche. . . 


DORKINGS. 


Dorkings,  when  introduced, 

Colored  Dorkings 

Silver  Gray  Dorkings , 

White  Dorkings 


HAMBURGHS.  . . 


Black  Hamburghs. 
Golden  Spangled. . 
Golden  Penciled.. 
Silver  Spangled. . . 
Silver  Penciled.  . . 


POLANDS.  . . . 

Golden  Spangled   . . . 

Silver  Spangled.  . .    . 

White  Crested  Black. 

"     White. 


SPANISH 


Andilusian 

Brown  Leghorns 

"  "       Rose  Comb 

Black         "        

Dominique  Leghorns 

White  "          

"         Rose  Comb. 

Leghorns,  first  introduced 

Black  Spanish 


Minorcas 

AMERICAN  BREEDS 

American  Dominique 

Seabright,  (Wyandotte.) 

Plymouth  Rocks 

"  "       How  produced 

White  Plymouth  Rocks 

Wyandottes 

Wyandottes — How  produced 

White  Wyandottes 64,78,80 


INDEX.  115 


PAGE. 

MISCELLANEOUS  BREEDS 78 

Creepers 79 

Black  Russians 79 

Frizzlies 79 

Rumpless  78 

BANTAMS 79 

Buff  Cochins 79 

Games 79 

Black  Japanese 80 

White         " 80 

Grey           " 80 

White  Crested  White 79 

Golden  Seabright 80 

Silver             "         80 

Guinea  Fowls 87 

DUCKS 86 

Aylesbury 86 

Black  East  India 86,87 

Call 86,87 

Cayuga 86,87 

Muscovy 86,87 

Pekin 86 

Pekin,  when  first  introduced 86 

Rouin 86 

WildMallard 86 

White  Crested 86,  87 

GEESE 85 

Canada  or  American  Wild  Goose 85 

China,  White  and  Brown 85 

Bremen 85 

Embden   85 

Tolouse 85 

TURKEYS 83 

When  First  Bred 83 

Bronze 83,84 

Black 84 

Buff 84 

Narragansett.... 84 

Slate 84 

White 84 

Wild 83 


Il6  INDEX. 


5. 

POULTRY  ENEMIES.  . . 


Coon.. 
Fox... 
Hawk.. 
Owl... 
Rat.... 
Skunk. 
Weasel 


e. 

A  WORD  TO  BEGINNERS.  . . 


Capons  and  how  produced 

Carbolic  Acid  Ointment 

"       Acid  Wash 

Nest  Egg 

Douglas  Mixture 

False  Nest  Egg 

Poultry  Condition  Powders 

Stimulant 

Slips 

Tonics,  Nos.  i,  2,  3  and  4 

Water  Lime  Paint 

Sun  Flower  Seeds 

To  Dress  and  Pack  Poultry  for  Market. 

To  Fatten  Poultry 

To  Pack  Eggs  for  Hatching 

To  Fit  Fowls  for  Exhibition 

To  Pickle  Eggs 

Judging  Fowls  at  Exhibition 


CROSSBREEDING 

Light  Brahmas  and  White  Leghorns 

Black  Spanish  and  White  Leghorns 

White  Leghorns  and  Plymouth  Rocks 

Plymouth  Rocks  and  Patridge  Cochins , 

Brown  Leghorns  and  S.  S.  Hamburghs 

Quality  of  Eggs 


INCUBATORS 


The  Old  Speckled  Hen 100 

Four  reasons  why  not  more  popular 101 

Home  Made  Incubators 103,  104,  105 

Fraudulent  Practices  among  Poultry  Men 109. 


INDEX.  II/ 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 

PAGE. 

Bantams,   Black  Japanese 80 

"  Silver  Sebright 79 

Black  Spanish 62 

Brahams,  Dark  38 

Light 6 

Cochins,  Black 26 

' '  Partridge 90 

White 26 

Coops 23  24 

Dorkings,  Colored 38 

Ducks,  Pekin 42 

"  Rouin 42 

Games .  50  75  76 

Geese,  Tolouse 85 

Hamburghs,  Silver  Spangled 90 

Houdans , 70 

Incubators 103,  104,  105 

Le  Fleche 71 

Leghorns,  Brown 58 

' '  Dominique 63 

White 58 

Minorcas,  Black 82 

Packing  Poultry 95 

Plymouth  Rocks 70,  108 

Pofands,  White  Crested  Black 3 

"  White 72 

Poultry  Houses 12  to  21 

Turkeys,  Bronze 83 

Wyandottes,  Laced 25 

White 81 

POULTRY  SUPPLIES. 

Poultry  for  Pleasure  and  Profit  '§  a  little  book 

of  48  pages,  containing  much  of  interest  to  Poultry  Keepers,  which 
could  not  be  put  in  this  book.  Over  Forty  Thousand  sold  in  one 
year.  Very  low  prices  allowed  on  large  numbers  where  used  as 
premiums.  Retail  price,  25  cents. 

Caponizing  I nstru  mentS.— In  fine  case,  $3.00  per  set. 

Oyster  Shells  Crushed    for  Poultry. 

Bone  Meal,  for  Poultry.     Prices  given  on  application. 

Poultry  CutS«  For  use  in  illustrating  advertisements.  A 
fine  assortment.  A  sheet  showing  what  they  are,  with  prices. 
Price,  10  cents. — Circular  on  application  with  two  cent  stamp. 

G.  M.  T.  JOHNSON,  Binghamton,  N.  Y. 


Il8  ADVERTISEMENTS. 


WINDSOR,  N.  Y.. 

BREEDER   OF 

CHOICE  POULTRY. 


As  will  be  seen  by  a  letter  in  another  place,  I  have 
the  original  flocks  as  owned,  selected  and  bred  by 


Or.  IMI.  T. 

Consisting  of  the  following  varieties: 

Light  Brahmas,    Plymouth  Rocks,    White  Crested 

Black  Rolands,   Wyandottes, 

White   Wyandottes, 

And  will  be  able  to  furnish  Eggs  and  Fowls  in  season. 

I  believe  persons  who  want  fine  poultry  are  more 
willing  to  pay  a  fair  price  for  something  fine  than  a 
low  price  for  poor  stock,  and  I  can  say  with  confidence 
I  have  that  which  is  good,  and  will  be  pleased  to  hear 
from  all  contemplating  purchasing,  and  will  try  to 
satisfy.  Where  a  personal  letter  is  required  please 
inclose  stamp  for  reply. 

Address, 

ZE3I.    IB.    ZHZ^IILL, 

WINDSOR,  N.  Y. 


ADVERTISEMENTS.  1 19 

BINGHAMTON,  N.  Y.,  July  15,  1886. 
MR.  H.  B.  HALL,  WINDSOR,  N.  Y.  : 

DEAR  SIR  : — As  I  have  handed  over  to  you  my  choicest  fowls 
of  five  varieties,  I  will  give  you  a  little  statement  of  what  they  are, 
which  you  are  at  liberty  to  use  as  you  may  think  best. 

The  Light  Brahmas  were  headed  this  year  by  Sampson,  No. 
6,158,  and  with  him  were  a  fine  flock  of  females,  among  them  Deli- 
lah, 6,159,  Debora,  6,160,  and  Tirana,  6,161.  They  are  well  illus- 
trated on  page  5,  of  "Practical  Poultry  Keeping."  I  have  made 
the  selection  of  Light  Brahmas  with  special  reference  to  getting  not 
only  birds  well  marked  of  the  majestic  carriage  and  station  charac- 
teristic of  the  Brahma,  but  to  get  fowls  which  are  good  layers  and 
not  persistent  setters.  I  believe  I  have  succeeded,  and  think  there 
is  none  better  in  the  country. 

The  Wyandottes,  (see  page  25  of  "  Practical  Poultry  Keep- 
ing,") are  originally  from  the  finest  flocks  I  could  find,  carefully 
selected  and  bred.  Among  the  young  stock  designed  for  bringing 
in  new  blood,  are  the  chicks  from  the  $5.00  per  13  eggs,  which  I 
obtained  from  the  breeder  who  has  taken  the  first  premium  at  the 
Madison  Square  Garden  Poultry  Show,  for  the  past  three  years. 
The  flock  of  Plymouth  Rocks  which  I  hand  over  to  you  are  from 
the  best  flock  on  exhibition  at  the  above  named  show.  I  paid  six- 
teen dollars  for  three  settings  of  eggs.  I  was  satisfied  then  as  I  am 
now  that  I  was  getting  the  best.  You  need  not  hesitate  to  recom- 
mend them,  as  their  blood  will  bear  it. 

Among  the  White  Wyandottes  is  the  trio  for  which  I  paid 
twenty-five  dollars  and  soon  afterwards  refused  fifty,  and  if  I  did 
not  now  regard  the  consideration  which  I  received  from  you  as  bet- 
ter then  that  I  would  not  have  let  you  have  them.  They  are  the 
finest  specimens  I  know  of.  I  would  not  push  them  to  the  front  or 
you  will  not  be  able  to  fill  your  orders. 

I  had  a  plate  made  of  them  which  I  use  in  my  Practical  Poul- 
try Keeping.  Page  81. 

The  White  Crested  Black  Polands,  see  page  3  Practical  Poul- 
try Keeping,  are  from  the  flock  which  took  first  at  the  New  York 
State  Fair  in  the  fall  of  1885,  and  all  the  premiums  at  the  New  York 
Show  last  winter.  Their  beautiful  solid  white  crest  with  the  glossy 
black  plumage  of  the  body  renders  them  really  one  of  the  hand- 
somest of  domestic  poultry. 

Very  Respectfully,  I  am  Yours, 

G.  M.  T    JOHNSON. 

N.  B. — Besides  the  above  named  stock  from  Mr.  Johnson — I 
offer  eggs  from  very  fine  ROSE  COMB  BROWN  LEGHORNS.  The 
original  stock  from  which  I  obtained  mine  have  long  been  reguarded 
as  of  the  best  in  the  State. 

H.   B.   HALL, 

Windsor,  N.   Y. 


I2O  ADVERTISEMENTS. 

INCUBATORS ! 

If  you  are  at  all  interested  in  Poultry,  send  stamp  for  Illustrated 
Circular  of  Incubators  and  Brooders,  and  do  not  buy  without  read- 
ing the  testimonials  and  record  of  the 

Standard  Incubator. 

Headquarters  for  Poultry  Supplies,  and  Fixtures  of  every  kind. 
EF"  BEE  KEEPERS  SUPPLIES. 

L.  N.  CLARK  &  SON, 

38  Dey  Street,  NEW  YORK. 

THE  ANDREWS  HATCHER! 

A   Perfect  and  Reliable  Self  Regulating   Incubator. 

It  has  many  testimonials,  and  has  taken  its  full  share  of  Premiums 
at  our  State  Fairs  and  Poultry  Shows. 

Ef  SEND  FOR  CIRCULAR.  Address, 

THE  ANDREWS  HATCHER  CO., 

Elmira,  N.  Y. 


I  make  a  specialty  of  Games,  (both  exhibition 
and  pit  stock,)  Game  Bantams,  Cockers'  Sup- 
plies,  Gaffs,  etc.  ;  also,  Books  on  Game  Fowls 
and  Poultry  Cuts.  For  patrons  desiring  for- 
eign  stock  I  import  Games  and  Aseels  from  the 
leading  English  Breeders.  Am  special  agem 
for  the  Game  Fowl  Monthly,  a  large  and  beauti- 
fully  illustrated  Magazine,  devoted  entirely  tc 
Games  and  Game  Bantams.  Price,  $1.00  per  year  ;  sample  copy 
10  cents.  Send  a  two-cent  stamp  for  my  twelve  page  Illustrated 
Catalogues,  and  mention  Johnson's  Poultry  Book  when  writing. 

H.  P.  CLARK,  Wooster,  Ohio. 


(oS 


THE  LIBRARY 
UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA 

Santa  Barbara 


THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  ON  THE  LAST  DATE 
STAMPED  BELOW. 


NOV4  1983 

REID  OCT  22 19831 


A     000  587  486     2 


